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Notes05/04/2020
FvSpee
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51
Colonia instead of Corona. No. 7: Scrap is scrap.
Shot is, you vegans, mueslis and pacifists, not only the coarsely ground spelt stuff that you always soak in the evening for fresh grain PASTA, but also coarsely shredded LEAD or other less edible stuff that is shot with a shotgun. This results in a wide scattering angle, so you always get something somehow. By the way, shot is the English word for "shot", and a shotgun is a "shotgun". Only recently I learned that "sitting on the passenger's side" in English (at least in American English) means "to ride shotgun", because in the Wild Western there were always two people sitting on the front of the coach box: the one holding the reins and the passenger with the shotgun in his hand, in case a hare or Indian passed by.
Some fragrance houses also use the shotgun method, such as Guerlain with its Aqua-Allegoria series. The AAs are light eau de toilettes close to cologne, which, like cologne, are often simple, with a fresh note and a spicy addition. But because they are officially EdTs and are typically too feminine for a cologne, they are not included in my cologne range. In the perfume database, we count 51 Aquae Allegoria, or however you're supposed to form the plural here, on the Guerlain homepage you'll find another 12. In other words, three or four of these things are knocked out every year, and those that go down well with buyers are continued, the others are discontinued. I think this is an abuse of the customers as test subjects. Especially from a house like Guerlain, I actually expect them to first test which fragrances that come out of the lab as a suggestion are good, and then bring this selection of the best to the market. That would be respect for the customer, who would then know: At Guerlain, I get quality first, and second, next year I'll get the fragrance I'm buying this year as well.
The Acqua Colonia series by 4711 (with a c, because it is not Latin but Italian, or because someone from the Muppet Show sold a C to 4711's marketing department) is the German answer to Aqua Allegoria. So, just as Cologne is just on the German side of the border, these fragrances are just on the Cologne side of the border with EdT. Without blur and more crystalline than fluffy. Otherwise the same in green. And the same shotgun method: 28 fragrances in the Parfumo database, 9 on the 4711 homepage.
Because I find the junk, I stick to the 7.5 points I gave here earlier, although one could have talked about 8 here, because this is probably one of the best fragrances of this series. At rather cooler temperatures like today it has a shelf life of about one hour, in the midsummer for which it is made it is more like ten minutes. To start with the "performance", which is the most important thing about a fragrance in the opinion of many commentators ("you have to buy immediately, horny H+S, fragrance has only 1 little flaw, smells like shit with a homme"). Smells like blood orange and basil, as it is called, which makes a very nice, incredibly refreshing summery mixture, at least for people like me who like such citrus and herb combinations. Because of the blood orange, which is certainly synthetically produced, it is rather far away from the classic, centuries-old cologne notes (lemon, bergamot, lime, neroli, orange at best) and therefore different and, so to speak, modern. Why not, I like it. Already during the first test, the whole thing seemed to me a bit like a slimmed down, simplified version of the classic "Concentré d'Orange Verte" by Hermès, which is a great compliment. But this orange here is redder, bloody, a little less valuable and a little sweeter
To whom it may concern: Vincent Schaller, whose name I still don't know by name, is also responsible for Wilma's favourite remix from the same house, for some of the scents in "Rituals" and even for the not badly done "Oud 27" from "Le Labo".
Overall really a very nice product. I repeat: If 4711 had published a series of e.g. five (permanent) Acqua-Colonia fragrances, carefully selected and covering a broad spectrum of fragrances, even more dots would have been conceivable. So there is a little scrap malus.
Some fragrance houses also use the shotgun method, such as Guerlain with its Aqua-Allegoria series. The AAs are light eau de toilettes close to cologne, which, like cologne, are often simple, with a fresh note and a spicy addition. But because they are officially EdTs and are typically too feminine for a cologne, they are not included in my cologne range. In the perfume database, we count 51 Aquae Allegoria, or however you're supposed to form the plural here, on the Guerlain homepage you'll find another 12. In other words, three or four of these things are knocked out every year, and those that go down well with buyers are continued, the others are discontinued. I think this is an abuse of the customers as test subjects. Especially from a house like Guerlain, I actually expect them to first test which fragrances that come out of the lab as a suggestion are good, and then bring this selection of the best to the market. That would be respect for the customer, who would then know: At Guerlain, I get quality first, and second, next year I'll get the fragrance I'm buying this year as well.
The Acqua Colonia series by 4711 (with a c, because it is not Latin but Italian, or because someone from the Muppet Show sold a C to 4711's marketing department) is the German answer to Aqua Allegoria. So, just as Cologne is just on the German side of the border, these fragrances are just on the Cologne side of the border with EdT. Without blur and more crystalline than fluffy. Otherwise the same in green. And the same shotgun method: 28 fragrances in the Parfumo database, 9 on the 4711 homepage.
Because I find the junk, I stick to the 7.5 points I gave here earlier, although one could have talked about 8 here, because this is probably one of the best fragrances of this series. At rather cooler temperatures like today it has a shelf life of about one hour, in the midsummer for which it is made it is more like ten minutes. To start with the "performance", which is the most important thing about a fragrance in the opinion of many commentators ("you have to buy immediately, horny H+S, fragrance has only 1 little flaw, smells like shit with a homme"). Smells like blood orange and basil, as it is called, which makes a very nice, incredibly refreshing summery mixture, at least for people like me who like such citrus and herb combinations. Because of the blood orange, which is certainly synthetically produced, it is rather far away from the classic, centuries-old cologne notes (lemon, bergamot, lime, neroli, orange at best) and therefore different and, so to speak, modern. Why not, I like it. Already during the first test, the whole thing seemed to me a bit like a slimmed down, simplified version of the classic "Concentré d'Orange Verte" by Hermès, which is a great compliment. But this orange here is redder, bloody, a little less valuable and a little sweeter
To whom it may concern: Vincent Schaller, whose name I still don't know by name, is also responsible for Wilma's favourite remix from the same house, for some of the scents in "Rituals" and even for the not badly done "Oud 27" from "Le Labo".
Overall really a very nice product. I repeat: If 4711 had published a series of e.g. five (permanent) Acqua-Colonia fragrances, carefully selected and covering a broad spectrum of fragrances, even more dots would have been conceivable. So there is a little scrap malus.
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Saradonin
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