05/14/2020
FvSpee
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Colonia instead of Corona, No. 10: Same, same, but different!
4711 also offers a cologne with a modern label and the name "Nouveau Cologne". I have never smelled this artifact and have no plans to ever test it. Hold by grace: Yuzu, lychee and blackcurrant! Heliotrope, Peony and Stink Ash! Do you want to smell that in a cologne? Answer to two thirds "no", to the remaining third "neither in a cologne nor anywhere else". Anyway: What would coriander and Trudchen say about it?
On the other hand, the "Remix Cologne Anniversary Edition" is the real "New 4711" for me. There is no fragrance I know of (not even one from 4711) that is so close to the "Regular", that reproduces its unmistakable sound so precisely, including the rosemary note. At the same time, however, it proves to be ingeniously different, more modern, rounder, a touch (but really only a wönzig little touch) sweeter and a Mü (but also only a Mü) longer lasting. At no point does it look like a tried and tested copy. It radiates from itself, and I'm sure you would like it even if you don't know the reference "Regular". It reminds me of a piano concerto by Mozart, once played in the style of old music with harpsichord and small chamber orchestra, once with concert grand piano and modern symphony orchestra. One can leave open which of the two fragrances corresponds to which variant; I am only interested in the Same-Same-but-Different-Effect.
If you believe the scent pyramid, this hussar prank essentially consists of an exchange of Nerolis for Petitgrain - and is the responsibility of perfumer duo Kalle/Schaller. Schaller seems to be a lucky choice for 4711, as he's not only responsible for this fragrance (best known to me from the "Remix" series), but also for "Blood Orange & Basil" (best known to me from the "Acqua-Colonia" series). Mrs. Kalle seems to be a 4711 house perfumer and has so far created a jasmine flanker, among other things. It could be that she has brought a delicate touch of this blossom into this composition here.
Since it is a limited edition, you will never know if this fragrance really had what it takes to match the classicism of the original or if it contains too much "contemporary taste". A colleague of mine said earlier (unasked) that she heard a "sunscreen note" on me, which she didn't mean negatively, but which in itself wasn't typical of the cologne. Nevertheless, I'd venture to say that the Anniversary Edition, in the long run, would have been the chance for Mäurer&Wirtz to establish a second, more modern 4711. Perhaps even, with all love for the original and all aversion to murdering classics for the sake of modern "reformulation", to replace the "regular" one day. But it probably won't happen like that.
For me a very, very nice cologne, to use without hesitation on every occasion. I would like to give 8.75 points and round up to 9 points out of sympathy, since this is not possible, although it does not reach the beauty of e.g. Harry Lehmann's "New York"
* *
In the bonus track part I would like to say a few words about three citric colognes of the Turkish company Eyüp Sabri Tuncer, which I had the opportunity to test about 2 years ago. About the tradition of the Turkish colonyas I should have written something in No. 1 of this series, and EST is one of the very big and traditional Turkish colognes. I would have liked to buy and order test fragrances again (also for this series here), but EST seems to have delivery problems (because the colognes are also used for disinfection) and furthermore I didn't find the stuff "before Corona" neither in Berlin nor on the internet (with delivery to Germany). Strange, with the many Turkish shops and inhabitants in the capital. I gladly accept tips for the purchase.
10a. "Klasik Limon" by EST is a hard lemon, yellow, very simple cologne with a Wienerwald refreshing note. I gave it a 6.0 grade and just wrote a statement. You don't have to test it.
10b. "Okyanus" is a citric-aquatic blue cologne, which is already much better, and which I rated with a 7.0 statement. I can even remember the scent well, but I definitely don't think it's a "must have" for testing.
10c. "Cesme Limonu" is the green-tangy sister of "Klasik" and simple, straight, quite volatile and very, very well done! I had dedicated a short comment to this fragrance and gave it a 7.5. However, at that time I had probably used a different scaling than for the present "Colonia-statt-Corona" series. I would have to give at least 8.0 now.
10d. "Bodrum Mandalinasi", the "Tangerine from Halicarnassus" is a just as beautiful, just as simple, just as well with a from today's point of view somewhat stingy 7,5 statement provided Mandarine-Cologne from the same house.
Any fragrant friend who gets "Cesme Limonu" or "Bodrum Mandalinasi" in front of his nose, when changing planes at Istanbul airport in duty free, at a Turkish friend's home or wherever, is strongly recommended to try these two colognes. EST has a lot more colonyas on offer (e.g. an Amber-Cologne), some of which do not meet the criteria of this test series (because they are not citric or otherwise fresh), and some of which I have not yet seen.
On the other hand, the "Remix Cologne Anniversary Edition" is the real "New 4711" for me. There is no fragrance I know of (not even one from 4711) that is so close to the "Regular", that reproduces its unmistakable sound so precisely, including the rosemary note. At the same time, however, it proves to be ingeniously different, more modern, rounder, a touch (but really only a wönzig little touch) sweeter and a Mü (but also only a Mü) longer lasting. At no point does it look like a tried and tested copy. It radiates from itself, and I'm sure you would like it even if you don't know the reference "Regular". It reminds me of a piano concerto by Mozart, once played in the style of old music with harpsichord and small chamber orchestra, once with concert grand piano and modern symphony orchestra. One can leave open which of the two fragrances corresponds to which variant; I am only interested in the Same-Same-but-Different-Effect.
If you believe the scent pyramid, this hussar prank essentially consists of an exchange of Nerolis for Petitgrain - and is the responsibility of perfumer duo Kalle/Schaller. Schaller seems to be a lucky choice for 4711, as he's not only responsible for this fragrance (best known to me from the "Remix" series), but also for "Blood Orange & Basil" (best known to me from the "Acqua-Colonia" series). Mrs. Kalle seems to be a 4711 house perfumer and has so far created a jasmine flanker, among other things. It could be that she has brought a delicate touch of this blossom into this composition here.
Since it is a limited edition, you will never know if this fragrance really had what it takes to match the classicism of the original or if it contains too much "contemporary taste". A colleague of mine said earlier (unasked) that she heard a "sunscreen note" on me, which she didn't mean negatively, but which in itself wasn't typical of the cologne. Nevertheless, I'd venture to say that the Anniversary Edition, in the long run, would have been the chance for Mäurer&Wirtz to establish a second, more modern 4711. Perhaps even, with all love for the original and all aversion to murdering classics for the sake of modern "reformulation", to replace the "regular" one day. But it probably won't happen like that.
For me a very, very nice cologne, to use without hesitation on every occasion. I would like to give 8.75 points and round up to 9 points out of sympathy, since this is not possible, although it does not reach the beauty of e.g. Harry Lehmann's "New York"
* *
In the bonus track part I would like to say a few words about three citric colognes of the Turkish company Eyüp Sabri Tuncer, which I had the opportunity to test about 2 years ago. About the tradition of the Turkish colonyas I should have written something in No. 1 of this series, and EST is one of the very big and traditional Turkish colognes. I would have liked to buy and order test fragrances again (also for this series here), but EST seems to have delivery problems (because the colognes are also used for disinfection) and furthermore I didn't find the stuff "before Corona" neither in Berlin nor on the internet (with delivery to Germany). Strange, with the many Turkish shops and inhabitants in the capital. I gladly accept tips for the purchase.
10a. "Klasik Limon" by EST is a hard lemon, yellow, very simple cologne with a Wienerwald refreshing note. I gave it a 6.0 grade and just wrote a statement. You don't have to test it.
10b. "Okyanus" is a citric-aquatic blue cologne, which is already much better, and which I rated with a 7.0 statement. I can even remember the scent well, but I definitely don't think it's a "must have" for testing.
10c. "Cesme Limonu" is the green-tangy sister of "Klasik" and simple, straight, quite volatile and very, very well done! I had dedicated a short comment to this fragrance and gave it a 7.5. However, at that time I had probably used a different scaling than for the present "Colonia-statt-Corona" series. I would have to give at least 8.0 now.
10d. "Bodrum Mandalinasi", the "Tangerine from Halicarnassus" is a just as beautiful, just as simple, just as well with a from today's point of view somewhat stingy 7,5 statement provided Mandarine-Cologne from the same house.
Any fragrant friend who gets "Cesme Limonu" or "Bodrum Mandalinasi" in front of his nose, when changing planes at Istanbul airport in duty free, at a Turkish friend's home or wherever, is strongly recommended to try these two colognes. EST has a lot more colonyas on offer (e.g. an Amber-Cologne), some of which do not meet the criteria of this test series (because they are not citric or otherwise fresh), and some of which I have not yet seen.
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