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Neukölln 28 - Cologne with Praline
The Remix series from the house of 4711 is definitely the most interesting for me. The Floral series is thematically not for me and also seems to no longer be properly continued, and I have long since dropped out of the Acqua-Colonia series (although a bottle of Blood Orange & Basil has made it into my collection), the hyper-nervous edition policy with what feels like 30 new binary combinations per year is really getting on my nerves. Especially since these pairings were initially understandable and somewhat human-like, usually a citrus fruit and a spice or herb, like Nutmeg & Lime, or Blood Orange and Basil, we have now arrived at obviously computer-generated absurdities like "Cranberry-Balsamico & Bicycle Tubes".
On the other hand, the Remix series has been releasing exactly one per year since 2017, so you can keep up, each from a new perfumer (usually interesting talents from the second tier), it is always a fully composed fragrance (but light, fresh, and simple like a proper cologne), and always a thrilling surprise.
In 2019, the surprise lay in the fact that Christiane Plos pushed the boundaries of the genre. From the traditional Cologne, only the low projection and longevity remain, along with a few citrus notes in the top that seem more like an alibi.
The lavender, which in traditional colognes, as far as it exists, is usually in the second or third row (there have been lavender colognes for decades and centuries, but I consider them a category of their own and exclude them from my Cologne series), has moved to the forefront here and is combined with equally prominent iris notes (which, along with the cleverly added mate aromas, provide the typical slightly bitter, slightly buttery lipstick impression) and with floral and, above all, moderately sweet gourmand accords.
This results in an interesting, exciting, and quite rounded fragrance; the somewhat daring synthesis does not fall apart but forms a successful whole, and despite the cologne-foreign iris and praline notes, there remains a trace of fresh coolness, the connection to the genre is not completely dissolved.
Nevertheless, this fragrance seems to me more like a study, an experiment, rather than a practical scent; I can't imagine it surviving very long into the year 2019 (unlike, for example, the 2017 Anniversary Remix, which I believe, and almost wish, would replace the 4711 classic and be available for the next 300 years). Because those looking for pralines and lipstick will probably not check the 4711 shelf in the drugstore (and would also wish for more than 1 hour of longevity).
It should be noted that this is a fragrance over which there is rare agreement. The tendency of my comment largely aligns with those of Blauemaus, Konsalik, Ttfortwo, and Yatagan.
On the other hand, the Remix series has been releasing exactly one per year since 2017, so you can keep up, each from a new perfumer (usually interesting talents from the second tier), it is always a fully composed fragrance (but light, fresh, and simple like a proper cologne), and always a thrilling surprise.
In 2019, the surprise lay in the fact that Christiane Plos pushed the boundaries of the genre. From the traditional Cologne, only the low projection and longevity remain, along with a few citrus notes in the top that seem more like an alibi.
The lavender, which in traditional colognes, as far as it exists, is usually in the second or third row (there have been lavender colognes for decades and centuries, but I consider them a category of their own and exclude them from my Cologne series), has moved to the forefront here and is combined with equally prominent iris notes (which, along with the cleverly added mate aromas, provide the typical slightly bitter, slightly buttery lipstick impression) and with floral and, above all, moderately sweet gourmand accords.
This results in an interesting, exciting, and quite rounded fragrance; the somewhat daring synthesis does not fall apart but forms a successful whole, and despite the cologne-foreign iris and praline notes, there remains a trace of fresh coolness, the connection to the genre is not completely dissolved.
Nevertheless, this fragrance seems to me more like a study, an experiment, rather than a practical scent; I can't imagine it surviving very long into the year 2019 (unlike, for example, the 2017 Anniversary Remix, which I believe, and almost wish, would replace the 4711 classic and be available for the next 300 years). Because those looking for pralines and lipstick will probably not check the 4711 shelf in the drugstore (and would also wish for more than 1 hour of longevity).
It should be noted that this is a fragrance over which there is rare agreement. The tendency of my comment largely aligns with those of Blauemaus, Konsalik, Ttfortwo, and Yatagan.
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31 Comments
I'm still a fan of Nouveau Cologne, which unfortunately also falls into the "Huschundweg" category (it's just how it is). But overall, I find the whole line quite likable. I don't know this one yet; it might be too sweet for me *oracle*
But I was disappointed by the low longevity. Overall, though, I find it very encouraging that 4711 is trying new directions.
I find the IrisLavender 2019 okay, but also borderline cologne-like. And the 2021 pyramid sounds terrifying, I'm curious...
(Originally, my plan was to get each of these fragrances. But the 2019 one would have just been a completion of my collection and not a 'wearable scent'.)