Colonia Intensa Acqua di Parma 2007 Eau de Cologne

Once upon a time, there was an old Italian perfume house. Its greatest masterpiece was an Eau de Cologne called "Colonia" from the year 1916. In the following decades, this masterpiece was worn by many celebrities, Hollywood actors, and even monarchs, making it famous. Over the years, it became quiet, leading three Italian gentlemen in the mid-90s to feel compelled to breathe new life into this venerable brand.

But as life goes, eventually the big players take notice and buy it all up. This happened in 2001. And who did it? Of course, LMVH. The luxury goods giant from France. Since 2003, Acqua di Parma has been 100% owned by LMVH. Such affiliation can have its advantages, or unfortunately, it may not. The fact that people at the top of these "brands" have previously worked at Unilever and then suddenly take over Guerlain or Acqua di Parma can work, but it doesn't have to.

In the past two or three years, I unfortunately had the feeling that it hasn't been functioning as desired. The new releases from those years, such as Club, Pura, or Ambra, are, in my opinion, no longer small masterpieces. One rather gets the impression that LMVH has decided to milk the lifestyle brand cow as well. Too much qualitatively inferior product in too short a time!

Let’s not misunderstand: The above should not be a lament for the good old days. That's life, and it won't change (nor should it).

This little work of art was created in 2007 by Alberto Morillas and François Demachy. Two perfumers who have demonstrably proven their craftsmanship. And it has turned out to be quite distinct compared to the original Colonia.

The beginning is not as lemon-heavy as one might expect compared to Colonia. It is more of a potpourri of all citrus fruits, which makes the top note refreshing and invigorating, but overall rather soft. This is likely due to the quick addition of neroli oil. The whole composition is lightly spiced and herbaceous, underlined with mugwort and myrtle. Wonderfully balanced. It becomes interesting, in my opinion, in the base. Leather in a summery cologne. Grandiose.

One shouldn't expect too much from the longevity and sillage, as these are typically subtle for Acqua di Parma. If one wishes, a midday spritz can be applied. The bottle and the sprayer are exceptionally elegant.

Yes, one must admit. This Colonia is indeed a small masterpiece. Personally, I needed a few attempts to see it this way.

The regular Colonia is also a masterpiece, but for me, it becomes a bit too floral from the heart note onwards. For that, the Essenza is my absolute favorite. Like the Colonia, just composed in a more masculine way.

Regards

Your Profumorist