Opus XV - King Blue by Amouage

Opus XV - King Blue 2023

Merlotsupern
07/28/2025 - 02:39 PM
10
Top Review
10Scent 10Longevity 8Sillage 9Bottle 6Pricing

King Blue, King of Paradox

Crafted in 2023 by Hamid Merati-Kashani (Mr. Layton) and Alexis Grugeon (Mr. Flaming Lemons), King Blue is a surrealist fragrance that thrives on contradiction. It opens with a fresh burst of citrus (mandarin and blackcurrant laced with pink pepper) radiating brightness. But this lightness is fleeting. Almost immediately, a barnyard-tinged oud and smoky resins pull the composition into shadow, creating a tension that will define the scentsperience.

This is where King Blue becomes truly interesting: it is both bold and restrained, abstract yet grounded. The heart reveals a smoky blend of frankincense and amber, while the base unfolds into a textured landscape of Assam oud, sandalwood, oakwood, and patchouli. A leather note emerges not as a dominant force, but as a bonding factor. It gives me the idea of worn suede, with a rubbery, rooibos-like (a.k.a. tea) nuance.

After the 4-hour mark, the dry down reveals an ashy, more refined leather that lingers close to the skin, offering an intimate presence which will last for the rest of the day.

Despite its potent ingredients, King Blue defies the weight typically associated with oud fragrances. It wears surprisingly well in heat, and - in my opinion - its abstract heart renders it genuinely unisex.
This is not a typical oud bomb, nor a traditional leather-based scent. It’s a fragrance of dualities: fresh yet animalic, loud (in the first hour) yet wearable, ideally masculine yet fluid. King Blue is an outstanding olfactory paradox, where disparate elements converge into a composition that is abstract, powerful, and unexpectedly versatile.

PS: if it is the first time that you are trying King Blue, avoid smelling it close immediately after you sprayed it - especially if you are not used to oud in general. Let it sit for a while and smell it in the air.
On hotter days, I usually spray it on skin only just below my lower chest... It works like a charm.
7 Comments
LongevityLongevity 4 months ago
2
Ah! I was writing my review of this gem no later than today! A masterpiece for real. I’ll def try to snatch a bottle of this and SO, and probably go bankrupt doing so.
LongevityLongevity 4 months ago
2
@Merlotsupern for real, I don’t understand the ratings at all… lucky you for SO, I’m slightly jealous 😂
MerlotsupernMerlotsupern 4 months ago
2
Ah the more reviews the better! Talking about "surreal", I still wonder how this has an average scent score below 8...
I've been patient with my SO bottle... managed to resist, until I snatched a tester at a ludicrous price.
TheDunkPapaTheDunkPapa 4 months ago
3
The single worst thing about living under decree of The King is setting yourself up for endless future disappointments when trying much more expensive and much more "exclusive" oud blends. This and Silver Oud are some real fucking bottled magic and have set a nice and high bar for me and, I assume, you. Long live the King!
MerlotsupernMerlotsupern 4 months ago
2
Long live the King and RIP to my bank account! :D
CivetOnlyCivetOnly 4 months ago
2
Maintaining a certain degree of freshness in a 35% oil concentration with Hindi oud, which is notorious for its pacman-like behavior (devouring other ingredients and dominating the composition) is just surreal to me.
Like there's decent creations and then there's King Blue. A league of its own, defying the rules of perfumery.
MerlotsupernMerlotsupern 4 months ago
2
Agreed, far from being an oud connoisseur... but based on what you are saying, you can understand why it took 2 perfumers to shape this alchemical wonder. Beyond the artistry, probably a lot of maths and chemisty involved here.