Encens Jinhae Atelier Cologne 2016

Seriously - I actually find it silly to explicitly state that the cherry blossom comes from South Korea, the incense from Uzbekistan, or the lemon from Sicily. Although, I recently saw a very interesting documentary about New Caledonian sandalwood, and I didn't know that Jinhae is a province in South Korea that celebrates cherry blossom season just like Japan does. So I assume that the ingredients have indeed traveled halfway around the world and were not created in a lab, for example, in Holzminden. Yes, it’s not the first time I’ve learned something new from Parfumo.

Aside from that, I experience the scent as serious, but very subtle, fine, and, in my opinion, calming. I can relate to an Asian vibe and I spontaneously search for a tea note in the pyramid. In any case, the scent reminds me more of a tea ceremony than of rituals where incense plays a role. When I perceive incense, it might be the still unburned resin grains, clean, cool, and without real smoke.

Encens Jinhae will not inspire anyone to fits of enthusiasm, will not cause rumpled sheets, and will not turn me into a diva either. But on days when you simply want to smell "simple," well-groomed, understated, self-sufficient, and not seek attention, I would love to reach for this perfume. Yes, I like it very much, especially since many of the currently highly praised perfumes simply annoy me.

I am also surprised to find that I have never consciously noticed the perfumer Jerome Epinette before. However, I really like several of his creations, so I will dedicate myself to his work more intensively in the near future. He obviously knows how to create wearable, unsweetened, yet interesting perfumes. I am already adding Encens Jinhae to my wish list.

I have been somewhat surprised for some time now by pyramids like the ones presented here. These bombastic global classifications: After all, we now know that most scent and raw materials are purchased by perfumers or in laboratories of large corporations. It is also clear to us that there are quality differences depending on the wishes and price specifications for the end product perfume. At least to me.
And I notice that some pyramids might rather be a wishful thinking or suggestion. Sometimes the pyramid suggests something different than what actually comes under your nose.
And now we have recently? also fragrances whose scent materials are said to have been gathered from all over the world. From where the pepper grows, even if we don't really know exactly where that might be. But it sounds nice, it reads in such a way that your nose drips not from a cold but already from the idea and in anticipation of a paradisiacal scent. Some may also be struck by a sudden intense wanderlust and want to buy the perfume for comfort?
Or should we just imagine that they are recreated from the specific natural raw materials of the respective region? I will assume the latter. In any case, we are at least supposed to be impressed.
Wow, how exclusive: Uzbek incense! If only we knew how it differs from East African. Which brings me to the scent "Encens Jinhae" by Atelier Cologne.
I had actually earmarked it for ordering some time ago. However, now that I received the sample, I really didn't remember exactly which scent composition awaited me. I recalled cherry blossoms, wood.
So I applied it and noted:
"At the start, a bright cologne, very delicate citrus notes, light black tea with a light cup. Immediately follows a gentle balsamic creaminess, honey-sweetened like with labdanum, a pinch of spiciness and very delicate flowers. I can't decide whether it is the scent of modern slightly citrusy roses and/or cherry blossoms. They are all rose-like plants (those familiar with botanical classification may forgive my imprecise variety and species names). A fine, light, and very pleasant cologne. In its lovely creaminess and sweetness, it differs for me from "Tribal Black Tea" by Illuminium. Although it temporarily reminds me of it after a short testing period. A light tea cologne, flavored with rose petals, with a subtle, consistent sillage and scent blend lasting over 3 hours. I estimate the longevity to be at least double that. A beautiful perfume that one can never go wrong with."
So, and now I call up the scent and am still surprised! Where is the mentioned incense, please? I don't smell it, patchouli?
I have no idea. How should I know what "Indonesian" patchouli smells like exactly?
And Uzbek incense, maybe it provides the honey-sweet scent note? The name sounds as if it is a completely different kind of incense. If the elemi resin didn't come from the Philippines, I might perceive it as belonging to incense.
It's not that I don't like "Encens Jinhae." That I miss incense or even patchouli. On the contrary, it would bother me in "Encens Jinhae" to suppress its sublime delicacy. Thus, for me, after the course and development, it is a much more delicate, transparent, and filigree reformulated version of "Hanami" by Annayaké.
Above all, one is spared from the sharp initial phase of Hanami.
I can actually imagine "Encens Jinhae" - unlike Hanami - on men, should they like such fragrances. I would be satisfied if men liked "Encens Jinhae" on women.
"Encens Jinhae" is a recommendation for women who miss Hanami. They should test "Encens Jinhae."

My oriental journey continues, after the classic (oriental) themes like tobacco and pepper, it was now time for incense...or rather, it would have been! All that's missing is cumin and myrrh...then every cliché would be covered! Where was I again...ah yes...with the incense, which this scent is titled! Incense...this drug-like substance that gives many fragrances spice, depth, masculinity, evokes an earlier (or even current) memory of church visits, can sometimes seem aloof yet fascinating, cool and dark...can...yes, if it is indeed present!!
Let's keep it short, the headline from Seerose sums it up perfectly and gets straight to the point. Beautiful spicy pepper and fresh citrus notes characterize the 3-minute top note, which I really like. I also feel that citrus notes and pepper generally harmonize very well, a good old example is always my beloved "December"!
Shortly after...for a few seconds I thought, there must be oud in this...probably not...pretty sure not, but as soon as I smell rose, I almost reflexively expect oud...stupid conditioning...will I ever be able to unlearn that?! But it's just rose, in a green-fresh-ethereal version, added to a sack full of black tea...I like this note in many fragrances like Gucci PH2, Eau Duelle, Fan di Fendi PH or also in Old Bond Street 24.
But that's exactly where the "problem" lies, it's something I've known forever and unfortunately can't be excited about anew. I love rose petal black tea from the big tea canister in the shop...but in fragrances, this theme unfortunately wears off very quickly for me. An aroma that I enjoy having in the living room, but not on my skin. After 2 months, I had really had enough of Bond Street and I probably won't be able to warm up to this theme (newly) anymore! Someone who hasn't had such a scent under their nose will find it very pleasant or even be able to be thrilled...but I'm not so sure about the long-term effect. Not much more happens with this scent, it simply becomes more bitter, the green-bitter tannins shift the fragrance a bit towards the masculine...even though it is absolutely unisex. This scent also comes to me 4 months too late...or 8 months too early...because it probably fits better in late autumn and winter.
I can perceive the scent for quite a long time, which is always the case with rose for me, 6 hours go by, but the sillage is rather close to the skin...or at most just slightly above!
Conclusion: Beautiful scent, but already smelled too often, a well-known theme nicely presented and not very oriental!