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09/27/2021
Chizza
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Chizza
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Indonesian and Vietnamese oud in harmony
Ten days no comment from me, I let up and then once again a sober comment, hard to believe. Nothing with Ruhrpottromantik. Just as unlikely as the fact that a Bortnikoff fragrance could please me. So far, nothing from this house convinced me, but have now ordered another six different bottlings to be sure. In the meantime, I trust myself to be able to distinguish and better classify, even enjoy ouds. New conditions, new results? Indeed, yes, L'Heure Exquise pleases me extraordinarily and that is also due to the selection respectively the origin of the ouds used here. But let's start first:
If you read through the statements about this fragrance, so you can not get past "cocoa". Sure, it's listed here as an ingredient and some ouds smell like dry cocoa. However, one should not imagine an oud of this type here. Once applied, a floral-green aura envelops the oud, which here seems rather damp-woody, like wet forest floor, like dew dripping leaves. For me, this green aura goes back to the champaka used, which I find beguilingly floral. But also the cardamom is clearly in focus at the beginning because the oud is enveloped menthol-like and that must be due to the cardamom. Cardamom can have olfactory properties reminiscent of eucalyptus, for example. This already seems strong but L'Heure Exquise is incredibly multifaceted and smells completely different in the course.
I personally do not like every oud, in fact I pay a lot of attention to the regions. Indonesian oud, Borneo oud, that suits me because Indonesian oud is - let's say - light-footed on the road. Somewhat floral, somewhat sweet, gently resinous; that's how I would describe it. Vietnamese oud is not so common - in relation to other oud origins. To me, the Vietnamese oud adds a creamy, milky, veiling nuance to the resin, garnished with a bitter-woody note that is so rarely experienced. The combination is well balanced, there is little to complain about here. What I want to say: two of my favorite ouds were used here.
Now L'Heure Exquise changes as it progresses, the cardamom disappears and the cocoa settles over the scent like a fine, somewhat sweetening mist. The oud from the two countries is sometimes attributed a sweet component and the resin now acts quite exactly so, is never dry but always remains sultry, moist and attractive.
Bortnikoff has shown with this fragrance that not every creation from the house is nothing for me. On the one hand, beautiful ouds were used here for me, on the other hand, the selection of the floral entourage is successful because beguiling, heavy (excellent opposed to the light oud) and harmonious. The cardamom would not have been mandatory as some moments contain too much of this ingredient, while others seem precisely balanced. Nevertheless, the cool and refreshing green oud phase is exciting and beautiful. This has its price but I do not rate it.
If you read through the statements about this fragrance, so you can not get past "cocoa". Sure, it's listed here as an ingredient and some ouds smell like dry cocoa. However, one should not imagine an oud of this type here. Once applied, a floral-green aura envelops the oud, which here seems rather damp-woody, like wet forest floor, like dew dripping leaves. For me, this green aura goes back to the champaka used, which I find beguilingly floral. But also the cardamom is clearly in focus at the beginning because the oud is enveloped menthol-like and that must be due to the cardamom. Cardamom can have olfactory properties reminiscent of eucalyptus, for example. This already seems strong but L'Heure Exquise is incredibly multifaceted and smells completely different in the course.
I personally do not like every oud, in fact I pay a lot of attention to the regions. Indonesian oud, Borneo oud, that suits me because Indonesian oud is - let's say - light-footed on the road. Somewhat floral, somewhat sweet, gently resinous; that's how I would describe it. Vietnamese oud is not so common - in relation to other oud origins. To me, the Vietnamese oud adds a creamy, milky, veiling nuance to the resin, garnished with a bitter-woody note that is so rarely experienced. The combination is well balanced, there is little to complain about here. What I want to say: two of my favorite ouds were used here.
Now L'Heure Exquise changes as it progresses, the cardamom disappears and the cocoa settles over the scent like a fine, somewhat sweetening mist. The oud from the two countries is sometimes attributed a sweet component and the resin now acts quite exactly so, is never dry but always remains sultry, moist and attractive.
Bortnikoff has shown with this fragrance that not every creation from the house is nothing for me. On the one hand, beautiful ouds were used here for me, on the other hand, the selection of the floral entourage is successful because beguiling, heavy (excellent opposed to the light oud) and harmonious. The cardamom would not have been mandatory as some moments contain too much of this ingredient, while others seem precisely balanced. Nevertheless, the cool and refreshing green oud phase is exciting and beautiful. This has its price but I do not rate it.
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