Rate
Collection
Classify
Notes12/15/2020
Shaking
Translated
Show original
Shaking
Top Review
17
The stroke of genius
As I have already written in my short statement, Bruno Acampora succeeded in a small stroke of genius with the signing of Enfant Terrible Miguel Matos and the subsequent release of the perfume line "Acampora Fifty Four"
Whether and how these wild creations have a positive effect on the business of the traditional company, I do not like to judge.
Nevertheless, I am very happy that companies nowadays still have the courage to dare something and not to be totally meaningless or to ingratiate themselves with the mass market (yes, "Wilgermain" especially you.... please feel addressed; "Caron" and "Le Galion" only have to be ashamed of themselves at certain points and visit the "Silent Stairs") to sink!
Apparently the jurors of the Art&Olfaction Awards 2020 saw it the same way and awarded the perfume in the category "Independent"
Note in passing: Although this award means nothing in my eyes and especially nose, if you look at the other winner "Nimbis" of the Art&Olfaction Award 2020 in the category "Artisan".
I don't know what the jury rode in on, but it's a mystery to me
Here, it is not the "courage" for something new that is rewarded, but simply the "courage" to be so different that it must be art again.
Prepotent narrow-mindedness is what I would call it
As a blueprint of Henkel, Bayer and BASF what is possible in the "chemistry kitchen" today ....OK (Orto Parisi don't get angry, you will win again, I'm sure...submit "Fantomas") but as a scent of "falling stars", it is more than questionable to deliver something like that.
Art is art and actually one should be glad that new things appear at all, but in this category there were sooooo strong scents that I honestly doubt my nose.
Well, anyway, enough cross-referencing, back to the star of the story, "Young Hearts"!
Here, however, I have to agree with the jury and join in the adulation!
Miguel Matos so far best fragrance point!
Why?
Because he has not only succeeded in breathing new life into the often declared dead Chypre (others have done so before) but also in making the Chypre interesting again for a young generation, without however completely offending the old lover of this genre! A balancing act that was successful without losing oneself in irrelevance.
The scent is too bulky for that, has too many edges and corners... but on the other hand it shows a hint of "coolness" (which can even be taken literally), as galbanum, pine, saffron, fir balm and birch leaf create a deep dark, ethereal and cooling aura!
Jasmine gives light floral speckles, which loosen up the fragrance a bit, just enough not to make everything sink into total darkness.
Next on the scene is the rose, which knows exactly where its place is and submissively blends in with the tangy green. It appears as dark red as I have rarely smelled and gives the fragrance even more depth, but also something vulnerable.
The patchouli, oakmoss and musk trio, gives lovers of classic chypre fragrances what they crave and start purring with pleasure:
Animalics
Not bad, not fecal and not assaulting...just enough to enjoy and to want to know more about where this d(h)hereditary smell comes from!
The base of patchouli, oakmoss and musk lasts (a restrained rose is also very easy to perceive) almost 24 hours on the skin and lets you sniff again and again at the sprayed area.
The fragrance has an excellent silage and an extreme durability (and this already at "only" the tested perfume concentration, the Extrait version might be even more substantial)
Over 6 hours I was accompanied by a dark, green, bitter, floral scent of forest with a pleasant coolness and then slowly ending in a very long chypre base!
It should be said quite clearly that also younger noses should sniff here please, in order not to miss a great fragrance, which expands the scent horizon beside the usual Parfums de Marly and consorts!
The name "Young Hearts" was not chosen in vain.
For young and old, who have remained young at heart, a true celebration!
Whether and how these wild creations have a positive effect on the business of the traditional company, I do not like to judge.
Nevertheless, I am very happy that companies nowadays still have the courage to dare something and not to be totally meaningless or to ingratiate themselves with the mass market (yes, "Wilgermain" especially you.... please feel addressed; "Caron" and "Le Galion" only have to be ashamed of themselves at certain points and visit the "Silent Stairs") to sink!
Apparently the jurors of the Art&Olfaction Awards 2020 saw it the same way and awarded the perfume in the category "Independent"
Note in passing: Although this award means nothing in my eyes and especially nose, if you look at the other winner "Nimbis" of the Art&Olfaction Award 2020 in the category "Artisan".
I don't know what the jury rode in on, but it's a mystery to me
Here, it is not the "courage" for something new that is rewarded, but simply the "courage" to be so different that it must be art again.
Prepotent narrow-mindedness is what I would call it
As a blueprint of Henkel, Bayer and BASF what is possible in the "chemistry kitchen" today ....OK (Orto Parisi don't get angry, you will win again, I'm sure...submit "Fantomas") but as a scent of "falling stars", it is more than questionable to deliver something like that.
Art is art and actually one should be glad that new things appear at all, but in this category there were sooooo strong scents that I honestly doubt my nose.
Well, anyway, enough cross-referencing, back to the star of the story, "Young Hearts"!
Here, however, I have to agree with the jury and join in the adulation!
Miguel Matos so far best fragrance point!
Why?
Because he has not only succeeded in breathing new life into the often declared dead Chypre (others have done so before) but also in making the Chypre interesting again for a young generation, without however completely offending the old lover of this genre! A balancing act that was successful without losing oneself in irrelevance.
The scent is too bulky for that, has too many edges and corners... but on the other hand it shows a hint of "coolness" (which can even be taken literally), as galbanum, pine, saffron, fir balm and birch leaf create a deep dark, ethereal and cooling aura!
Jasmine gives light floral speckles, which loosen up the fragrance a bit, just enough not to make everything sink into total darkness.
Next on the scene is the rose, which knows exactly where its place is and submissively blends in with the tangy green. It appears as dark red as I have rarely smelled and gives the fragrance even more depth, but also something vulnerable.
The patchouli, oakmoss and musk trio, gives lovers of classic chypre fragrances what they crave and start purring with pleasure:
Animalics
Not bad, not fecal and not assaulting...just enough to enjoy and to want to know more about where this d(h)hereditary smell comes from!
The base of patchouli, oakmoss and musk lasts (a restrained rose is also very easy to perceive) almost 24 hours on the skin and lets you sniff again and again at the sprayed area.
The fragrance has an excellent silage and an extreme durability (and this already at "only" the tested perfume concentration, the Extrait version might be even more substantial)
Over 6 hours I was accompanied by a dark, green, bitter, floral scent of forest with a pleasant coolness and then slowly ending in a very long chypre base!
It should be said quite clearly that also younger noses should sniff here please, in order not to miss a great fragrance, which expands the scent horizon beside the usual Parfums de Marly and consorts!
The name "Young Hearts" was not chosen in vain.
For young and old, who have remained young at heart, a true celebration!
12 Replies
