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Notes08/28/2020
BrianBuchanan
355 Reviews
BrianBuchanan
2
Perfume-myrrh's Reserve
Perfumer's Reserve was a short run flanker released on the 40th anniversary of that great classic - Aromatics Elixir. With a top to toe makeover it has been brought into line with modern trends while remaining true to the spirit of the original.
The biggest change is the addition of myrrh to the base. This partly smooths out the coarse grungy feel of patchouli - which is a crucial part of the original - and so the structure is smoother, lighter and more legible. Chamomile - which has a similar coarse feel - has also been scaled back. Rose has been paired with white flowers - which are backed up by a dry powdery accord.
Similar changes have taken place in the high end of the profile. Coriander stays in a leading role but there's also the myrrh, and a strange plasticky note, which means Perfumer's Reserve is paler and clearer and is less weird than the original.
They both have an aromatic top note but PR has dropped the soapy overtone of AE.
Perfumers Reserve strips out the excess baggage and feels modern and more legible. But - like restoring an old painting - stripping away the dirt may also strip away the character.
If PR feels a bit anodyne compared to the original, it still preserves the old mystique and gives the old favourite a new - if sadly limited - lease of life.
PR was made as a extrait - with all the soft force that that brings - and it's appropriate that this homage to a great classic should now appear in a classic concentration.
Fans of Aromatics - who are open to a new edition of the old chestnut - would probably love this, if only they could get their noses on it...
The biggest change is the addition of myrrh to the base. This partly smooths out the coarse grungy feel of patchouli - which is a crucial part of the original - and so the structure is smoother, lighter and more legible. Chamomile - which has a similar coarse feel - has also been scaled back. Rose has been paired with white flowers - which are backed up by a dry powdery accord.
Similar changes have taken place in the high end of the profile. Coriander stays in a leading role but there's also the myrrh, and a strange plasticky note, which means Perfumer's Reserve is paler and clearer and is less weird than the original.
They both have an aromatic top note but PR has dropped the soapy overtone of AE.
Perfumers Reserve strips out the excess baggage and feels modern and more legible. But - like restoring an old painting - stripping away the dirt may also strip away the character.
If PR feels a bit anodyne compared to the original, it still preserves the old mystique and gives the old favourite a new - if sadly limited - lease of life.
PR was made as a extrait - with all the soft force that that brings - and it's appropriate that this homage to a great classic should now appear in a classic concentration.
Fans of Aromatics - who are open to a new edition of the old chestnut - would probably love this, if only they could get their noses on it...
