10/02/2021
FvSpee
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At the Colognist Café: Comme des Colognes
That the classic Eau de Cologne with its short shelf life and mostly citrusy freshness has long ceased to be ridiculed as old-fashioned and outdated, testify not only expensive niche lines that are more or less exclusively dedicated to the care and further development of this direction (such as La Manufacture or in some ways Atelier Cologne). Even more significant, in my opinion, is the fact that even hipster brands, which in themselves specialize in completely different directions, apparently want to prove to themselves and the world that they "can also Cologne".
So I found it equally surprising that the shrill label Etat Libre d'Orange 2014 with a simply 'Cologne' titled fragrance came on the market (which also smells quite unshrillingly simple-classic) and already long before, namely 1996, the incense specialists of Comme des Garcons with this 'Eau de Cologne' here (on which then after 2000 still a four-part special Cologne series was put on it). Since it can then actually not long until we may also welcome from A Lab on Fire and from Juliette has a Gun a 4711 competition.
But back to the fragrance reviewed here! Unlike, for example, the minimalist-modest (and thus, as far as the price is concerned, already outrageous again) ELDO, this Comme des Colognes undertakes to interpret the fragrance genre of cologne in a very new way, but without completely abandoning or betraying the genre. One should not be misled by the overwhelming list of ingredients here. CdC, despite the ingredient staccato of spices (clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom, pepper) and resins-and-wool (styrax, frankincense, galbanum, labdanum, sandalwood, cedar), remains clearly recognizable as a light, refreshing, citrusy fragrance at heart: At least in the beginning.
Since one has the impression that the aforementioned firecracker ingredients would have been carried past the recipe at best. In addition to the strong (fine, not sour) citrus of lime and bergamot, I perceive here most credibly honey, magnolia, coriander, rose and hay notes, which, in just this order, provide a tart-sweet, creamy, rich, bitter herbaceous and - just rosy and hay flanking. Mrs. von Spee and I feel that is very fine, unusual and successful.
Quite soon, however, it then becomes not only quite skinny, but also clearly muskatiger, peppriger and thus also warmer (almost hot). Thus, this fragrance accomplishes the feat of creating from within an hour the transition (held together by a delicate, unobtrusive creaminess and sweetness) from a modern art 4711 (in the sense of art fairy tale) to a posh Old Spice (and then discreetly and charmingly make the finish).
German Mark Buxton is extraordinarily prolific as a perfumer. He is listed on Parfumo with 161 fragrances, including a great many Comme des Garcons and many fragrances from very small and very quirky labels, with names like "Taxi", "The Lobster" and (I particularly like) "Stay Dirty". More recently, he treats himself to his own label (Mark Buxton Perfumes). And also this brand, so the circle closes, means not to be complete without a (me so far not yet known), 2020 appeared, fragrance called 'Why not a Cologne'.
Fourth visit to the colognist cafe. Blog was completed.
So I found it equally surprising that the shrill label Etat Libre d'Orange 2014 with a simply 'Cologne' titled fragrance came on the market (which also smells quite unshrillingly simple-classic) and already long before, namely 1996, the incense specialists of Comme des Garcons with this 'Eau de Cologne' here (on which then after 2000 still a four-part special Cologne series was put on it). Since it can then actually not long until we may also welcome from A Lab on Fire and from Juliette has a Gun a 4711 competition.
But back to the fragrance reviewed here! Unlike, for example, the minimalist-modest (and thus, as far as the price is concerned, already outrageous again) ELDO, this Comme des Colognes undertakes to interpret the fragrance genre of cologne in a very new way, but without completely abandoning or betraying the genre. One should not be misled by the overwhelming list of ingredients here. CdC, despite the ingredient staccato of spices (clove, cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom, pepper) and resins-and-wool (styrax, frankincense, galbanum, labdanum, sandalwood, cedar), remains clearly recognizable as a light, refreshing, citrusy fragrance at heart: At least in the beginning.
Since one has the impression that the aforementioned firecracker ingredients would have been carried past the recipe at best. In addition to the strong (fine, not sour) citrus of lime and bergamot, I perceive here most credibly honey, magnolia, coriander, rose and hay notes, which, in just this order, provide a tart-sweet, creamy, rich, bitter herbaceous and - just rosy and hay flanking. Mrs. von Spee and I feel that is very fine, unusual and successful.
Quite soon, however, it then becomes not only quite skinny, but also clearly muskatiger, peppriger and thus also warmer (almost hot). Thus, this fragrance accomplishes the feat of creating from within an hour the transition (held together by a delicate, unobtrusive creaminess and sweetness) from a modern art 4711 (in the sense of art fairy tale) to a posh Old Spice (and then discreetly and charmingly make the finish).
German Mark Buxton is extraordinarily prolific as a perfumer. He is listed on Parfumo with 161 fragrances, including a great many Comme des Garcons and many fragrances from very small and very quirky labels, with names like "Taxi", "The Lobster" and (I particularly like) "Stay Dirty". More recently, he treats himself to his own label (Mark Buxton Perfumes). And also this brand, so the circle closes, means not to be complete without a (me so far not yet known), 2020 appeared, fragrance called 'Why not a Cologne'.
Fourth visit to the colognist cafe. Blog was completed.
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