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Notes11/21/2021
Elysium
746 Reviews
Elysium
Helpful Review
3
The Flower of Joy
Is Papaver an opiate of the masses? I don’t know, what do you think? I know that Opium (1977) Parfum is one of the most fascinating oriental fragrances, a classic of perfumes that incorporated all the most essential oriental perfumes until 1977 when it appeared and continued to inspire all these latest exotic fragrances. It is one of the most contentious perfumes of that era, both for tangible things like the name, i.e. opium the flower of joy, and intangible ones like the fragrant notes and charm that still provoke the most opposite reactions, from total disdain and disgust to complete loyalty and faith. Opium, despite its name, was not opium for the masses but for the fancied souls who did not fear the condemnation of society and who dared to indulge in the ecstatic enjoyment of themselves. And Papaver reminds me much of the vintage Opium (1977) Parfum by Jean-Louis Sieuzac and Jean Amic on its spicy route, much more than the reformulated Opium (2009) Eau de Parfum by Antoine Maisondieu on its incense road.
Papaver, aka poppy, is dishonest, naughty, disobedient. When you see opium listed as a fragrance note, it implies something mischievous and mysterious about the perfume itself. The best opium is soft and dark, the smell and texture of hashish or undercooked brownies with a weird fishy twist. Since ancient times, people have considered the opium poppy a symbol of nocturnal decay, intrigue, and healing powers. They have used it in rituals since at least the Stone Age. The Egyptian, Roman, Persian, Chinese, Greek, and Arab empires have also used it to make ceremonial, medicinal, and culinary use of opium poppies. It only took a bad rap during the 16th and 17th centuries, with poets and authors among those who fell in love with the narcotic allure of opium. Not surprisingly, perfumery uses a “hypnotic” effect: a powdery and floral note that works beautifully in oriental compositions—that delicate scent of unknown flowers.
The perfumer composed the Papaver opening of citrus notes. Still, unlike all the other perfumes of the oriental group, its top notes also contain aldehydes, which give it the typical scent of fresh laundry. I get the zesty mandarin orange, the harshness of the coriander leaves, and a spicy accord. A piercing opening, which is uncannily akin to YSL Opium.
At the heart of the fragrance, there is predominantly a floral, rosy, dense, abundant, and juicy note and touches of an exceptional flower that further underlines the spicy character of the perfume: carnation. This blossom, trendy in the 80s, emphasizes all the other spicy notes present in the formula. The powderiness of the orris root oozes smoothly and announces the incoming of the more resinous nuances.
There is an oriental mix of aromatic and talc resins of tolu, styrax, opoponax, and benzoin in the dry-down. Ouch, that’s a riot of balmy and sticky notes altogether. The perfume hits one misty note after another. And finally, last but not least, mystical incense, which permeates and refreshes every part of this perfume, from start to finish. The fragrance core is a blend of oriental aromas and features the amber accord. It is an accord built from over one ingredient to conjure a deep, creamy, resinous, sweet, sultry, often powdery aroma. What remains after several hours, and days on clothes, is resinous and powdery flavoring.
Hence, what you have is a voluptuous scent contrasting the richness of resins, spices, and woods. The composition of the perfume of Papaver is oriental, but the prominent role, unlike many other oriental perfumes, was given to spicy herbs. And the nose placed a greater emphasis on the animal note of castoreum, spicy and sticky notes, and a large part of the rose essence. It is an inviting scent that does not overpower the room. It has that warm, close-to-the-body essence a person breathes in as he or she caresses you. Great for evenings, there is no doubt. Deep, sexy, rich, courteous, and spicy blend for the cold evenings and night of autumn. Thanks, Création Lamis, for bringing the vintage Opium back to life.
I base the review on a 100ml bottle I have owned since November 2021.
-Elysium
Papaver, aka poppy, is dishonest, naughty, disobedient. When you see opium listed as a fragrance note, it implies something mischievous and mysterious about the perfume itself. The best opium is soft and dark, the smell and texture of hashish or undercooked brownies with a weird fishy twist. Since ancient times, people have considered the opium poppy a symbol of nocturnal decay, intrigue, and healing powers. They have used it in rituals since at least the Stone Age. The Egyptian, Roman, Persian, Chinese, Greek, and Arab empires have also used it to make ceremonial, medicinal, and culinary use of opium poppies. It only took a bad rap during the 16th and 17th centuries, with poets and authors among those who fell in love with the narcotic allure of opium. Not surprisingly, perfumery uses a “hypnotic” effect: a powdery and floral note that works beautifully in oriental compositions—that delicate scent of unknown flowers.
The perfumer composed the Papaver opening of citrus notes. Still, unlike all the other perfumes of the oriental group, its top notes also contain aldehydes, which give it the typical scent of fresh laundry. I get the zesty mandarin orange, the harshness of the coriander leaves, and a spicy accord. A piercing opening, which is uncannily akin to YSL Opium.
At the heart of the fragrance, there is predominantly a floral, rosy, dense, abundant, and juicy note and touches of an exceptional flower that further underlines the spicy character of the perfume: carnation. This blossom, trendy in the 80s, emphasizes all the other spicy notes present in the formula. The powderiness of the orris root oozes smoothly and announces the incoming of the more resinous nuances.
There is an oriental mix of aromatic and talc resins of tolu, styrax, opoponax, and benzoin in the dry-down. Ouch, that’s a riot of balmy and sticky notes altogether. The perfume hits one misty note after another. And finally, last but not least, mystical incense, which permeates and refreshes every part of this perfume, from start to finish. The fragrance core is a blend of oriental aromas and features the amber accord. It is an accord built from over one ingredient to conjure a deep, creamy, resinous, sweet, sultry, often powdery aroma. What remains after several hours, and days on clothes, is resinous and powdery flavoring.
Hence, what you have is a voluptuous scent contrasting the richness of resins, spices, and woods. The composition of the perfume of Papaver is oriental, but the prominent role, unlike many other oriental perfumes, was given to spicy herbs. And the nose placed a greater emphasis on the animal note of castoreum, spicy and sticky notes, and a large part of the rose essence. It is an inviting scent that does not overpower the room. It has that warm, close-to-the-body essence a person breathes in as he or she caresses you. Great for evenings, there is no doubt. Deep, sexy, rich, courteous, and spicy blend for the cold evenings and night of autumn. Thanks, Création Lamis, for bringing the vintage Opium back to life.
I base the review on a 100ml bottle I have owned since November 2021.
-Elysium
Elysium
Jazzy76
