Javanese Patchouli (Eau de Toilette) by Ermenegildo Zegna

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Essenze

Javanese Patchouli Ermenegildo Zegna 2012 Eau de Toilette

8.2 / 10 166 Ratings

A popular perfume by Ermenegildo Zegna for men, released in 2012. The scent is woody-spicy. It was last marketed by Estēe Lauder Companies.
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Main accords

Woody

Spicy

Earthy

Smoky

Sweet

Fragrance Notes

Java patchouli

Cedarwood

Italian bergamot

Pink pepper

Tonka bean

Perfumers

Frank Voelkl, DSM-Firmenich

Ratings

Scent

8.2166 Ratings

Longevity

7.7139 Ratings

Sillage

7.1140 Ratings

Bottle

8.1138 Ratings

Value for money

6.939 Ratings

Submitted by Kankuro · last update on 09/25/2025.

Source-backed & verified

Interesting Facts

The fragrance was part of the collection Essenze.

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to

Javanese Patchouli Eau de Parfum

Patchouli Nobile Eau de Parfum

Orage

Patchouli Nosy Be Eau de Parfum

Givenchy Gentleman Eau de Toilette

Coromandel Eau de Parfum

Reviews

11 in-depth fragrance descriptions

09/14/2014

10Scent 7.5Longevity 5Sillage

Drseid
828 Reviews

Drseid

Helpful Review 3

Perfect Patchouli...

Javanese Patchouli opens with a dash of fine lemony bergamot citrus, with hints of the earthy patchouli sneaking up from the heart. As the composition enters its early heart the earthy woody patchouli takes over the starring role with the natural smelling lemony bergamot remaining as underlying support, coupling with a fine soft pink pepper to add perceived dirtiness to the mix and subtle tonka bean derived sweetness. As the composition makes its way through the heart the bergamot and pink pepper gradually recede, transitioning to cedarwood rising from the base to join the slightly sweetened focal patchouli. During the late dry-down the natural cedarwood takes over as star with the patchouli still detectable, now in support through the finish. Projection is average to above average, and longevity excellent at around 12 hours on skin.

During my recent vacation to Las Vegas, I excitedly went from store to store sampling as many compositions of potential interest I could find, new and old alike. As I made my way through the tens and tens of retailers seeking out winners I was beginning to despair that not many compositions impressed save ones I already owned. Towards the end of the day after many disappointments I entered the Zegna store at Crystals exhausted with very low expectations after my negative experience with Zegna's regular line in the past. It turns out I am very glad I did, as I had a chance to sniff the entire Essenze private line and what a revelation it was.

As this is a review of Javanese Patchouli, I will cut to the chase and say that while the line positively surprised on the whole, Javanese Patchouli was the definitive standout. When I initially sniffed the cap for an early read I detected initial traces of greatness, but once sprayed on skin after allowing the composition to develop it became clear it is something special. The amazing perfumer, Frank Voelkl (responsible for my favorite Le Labo compositions Ylang 49 and Iris 39 among others) has put together what amounts to a near-perfect concoction. His minimalist use of natural smelling lemon-like bergamot running through the patchouli to smooth out its earthy qualities is simplistic genius. The pink pepper took me a little while to warm to, but the way it folds into the lemon-spiked patchouli and woods has won me over in the end. Finally, it should be mentioned that the cedarwood driven base while simplistic is quite believable and sublime. All-in-all this composition is masterpiece reference caliber work that has captivated someone who tends to like patchouli as a supporting note and not as the star. The bottom line is the $195 per 125ml bottle Javanese Patchouli is reference caliber work from the extremely talented Frank Voelkl that should be on anyone's sniffing list whether they like patchouli focused compositions or not, earning a "masterpiece" rating of 5 stars out of 5 and a very strong recommendation to all. Oh yes, of course I bought a bottle.

07/22/2018

9Scent 9Longevity 8Sillage

Meggi
1018 Reviews

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Meggi

Top Review 55

No Turning Back for Mr. Knöselmann

“What’s wrong with you? Are you not feeling well?”

The voice of the salesman was filled with that kind of concern that businesspeople feel when they fear a collapse - or worse! - right in their upscale boutique. In fact, Donato Ducatelli shuddered at the memory of an experience from his time as the head of the Munich branch of Giorgio Beinabi. An obese opera diva had collapsed in front of a stand with silk underwear and had passed away right there on the spot. The Technical Relief Organization had to come and remove the door for transport. The incident had been the talk of the town for weeks and fodder for gossip magazines.

Now, today’s customer was certainly anything but prominent. Ducatelli’s discerning eye had recognized this within seconds from the man’s unremarkable demeanor. Moreover, he kept asking, “How much does it cost?” So please - who cared about that? Still: If he were to suddenly drop dead here, that wouldn’t be good…

Indeed, Hubert Knöselmann had felt uncomfortable from the very beginning. Had his wife not insisted that he, now the new head of the accounting department at the medical supply company Offenbein & Partner, finally needed a proper suit - he would never have set foot in a Zegna atelier in his life.

While he had dutifully listened to lectures about fabrics and cuts and nodded along, his discomfort had steadily grown. The suit alone had required the dissolution of all his financial reserves. But that was not all. However, there was no turning back; the salesman had assured him with a hint of pity that such a suit simply wouldn’t do without the right accompanying accessories. Nod.

Resigned to his fate, Knöselmann had meticulously calculated the financing with practiced professionalism. The inevitable alterations to the fine piece would be covered by increasing the mortgage on their small row house. The shoes and the black leather belt were secured through a loan on the Opel Astra. Not even - it was about a tie - the prospect of camping at Struvenhütten instead of staying in a guesthouse on Föhr had thrown him off balance.

However, the fact that the cash register had automatically added an amount for the always unmentioned reserve tie, which promised the Knöselmann family pasta with ketchup until September 2019 - that had truly knocked the ground out from under him, and he had slumped into a chair.

“Hello! Are you not feeling well?” Ducatelli asked again. Without further hesitation, he grabbed a cube-shaped bottle from a shelf and sprayed it into a small glass until about a finger-width of a light amber liquid stood in it.

“Here, drink this - it will help!”

“Brrrrr… Is this a stomach bitter?”

“Not quite. This is ‘Javanese Patchouli.’ A perfume, but for the first half hour, it’s very similar to a stomach bitter or better yet, stomach drops. We’ll use it curatively for now.”

Knöselmann said nothing more and sat there with his eyes closed. At least he was breathing deeply and evenly again.

“By the way, we forgot the matching scent for your outfit. Take this! The intense stomach bitter phase will - as I said - soon pass, only fragments of it will remain. After that, you will be dealing with a practically pure patchouli scent. Bergamot provides supporting acidity upfront, but no distinct profile. Powerfully earthy-sour, yet completely un-morbid, ‘Javanese Patchouli’ guides you steadily through a long day. Occasionally, a hint of malty, thick, vanilla-caramel sweetness gently envelops the scent. Chocolatey accents from the patchouli round it off. It’s like a well-fitting suit, as you now know. It doesn’t need any frills.”

“How much does it cost?”

“220 euros.”

Ducatelli countered Knöselmann’s stifled whimper with a quick, “I’ll just throw it in for you!”

11/26/2017

8Scent 8Longevity 7Sillage

Serenissima
1238 Reviews

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Serenissima

Top Review 13

ideal also for female boundary crossers

My preference for opulent, sometimes even "massive" fragrances is well known by now. On some days, it simply has to be more than "just a hint."
But that would be too monotonous for a butterfly like me: the light, entertaining Jo Malone scents also have their time.

Besides sandalwood and ylang-ylang, I particularly love patchouli.
Not the slightly musty scent that evokes a "California Dreaming" feeling, but this clear, bright oil.
So I was naturally very curious when a sample of "Javanese Patchouli" arrived with a souk purchase.

After several applications, I continue to enjoy the clarity of this interesting fragrance: clear lines and scent developments characterize it!
Patchouli - radiant and bright, is accompanied by a hint of bergamot; this brings a slight freshness.
Pink pepper (which I sometimes have to avoid) is wonderfully dosed and a perfect counterpoint to the aromatic tonka bean.
The spicy-woody cedar note is exactly what this fragrance was missing: the dot on the "i"!
The walk in clear, cool air is perfect!

I have already experienced the longevity in the upper normal range with dear friends and some colleagues; for me, it is very good. My fish blood prevents a rapid development of the fragrance; however, it remains loyal for a long time!
In contrast to many current men's fragrances, "Javanese Patchouli" appears somewhat "simply constructed."
But it is precisely in this apparent simplicity that its sophistication lies!

Thus, this "Javanese Patchouli," although classified as a men's fragrance, is a lovely change for female "boundary crossers."
On days when the desire for straightforwardness and clarity prevails, this patchouli scent has proven to be an ideal companion for me.
Its unpretentious beauty sets very pleasant accents; especially in contrast to my predominantly feminine, sometimes dreamy fragrances.
So it will come as no surprise that this patchouli scent has naturally found its way onto my wish list.
Please forgive me for wandering into a completely "masculine" side today: but "Javanese Patchouli" is worth having a female voice resonate here!

Updated on 07/22/2021

09/10/2014

9Scent 8Longevity 7Sillage

FabianO
1010 Reviews

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FabianO

Top Review 9

Extremely well-crafted, well-structured patchouli scent

I stumbled upon Zegna's Edeledition in Berlin, which I didn’t know existed until yesterday.

200 euros? A nice round premium price!

"Javanese Patchouli," which was the first to catch my eye on the shelf, is a finely crafted scent with a very clear thematic structure.

At first, it is truly a beautifully sweet, slightly resinous and smoky patchouli with a lovely richness of facets. A hint of smokiness, subtly earthy-spicy, and somewhat balsamic.

The pink pepper and tonka bean provide a nice, clean framework that adds a rather soft spiciness on one hand and a delicate caramel hint on the other.

Longevity is very good. One of the truly commendable pure patchouli fragrances.

09/06/2013

9Scent 7.5Longevity 7.5Sillage

Chnokfir
213 Reviews

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Chnokfir

Top Review 9

Patchouli in the Best Company

"Essenza di Zegna" is one of my favorite fragrances from the past ten years. Light, spicy, a scent for every day, and for me, unmistakably unique and above all, delicious. Unfortunately, it's no longer available in stores here in Germany, but with a bit of searching, you can still find it. Understandably, my excitement was high when I first read about "Essenze." Renaming, re-release, reformulation? No, a very small new series of fragrances.

And it looks good when the five fragrances stand side by side in a row. They are united by the bottle, yet the liquid differentiates them minimally. The box is a gray monolith in cube form, with a minimally offset writing field and a structured bottom - elegant and a promising understatement. The bottle is a solid, massive cube made of clear glass, framed at the bottom with a gray base and filled with an olive liquid. The heavy cap made of gray metal and magnetic closure echoes the ribbing of the base. A beautiful, simple bottle, just to my taste.

The scent certainly lives up to its name. Patchouli all the way. A light bergamot provides the classic opening without appearing too fresh and citrusy. But patchouli is immediately present and takes the reins. It becomes green and herbal, yet very gentle and enchanting. It must be the tonka bean that caresses the nose. But pepper interrupts and tickles a bit now and then, sometimes it even scratches a little metallically. In the background, you can also find dry woody notes of cedar. Just when you think you've discovered some of the more hidden nuances with a deep breath, patchouli steps back into the foreground and gently overshadows everything else.

This game can go on all day; the individual notes do not tire. The sillage is pleasantly unobtrusive yet present. It envelops the body but is not disturbing to the environment. The opening is, of course, more intense, but after about 30 minutes, it settles down and remains a good friend for nearly ten hours. Some last remnants can still be found the following morning. Overall, a convincing and delightful symbiosis of longevity and projection, especially since patchouli is not necessarily to everyone's taste. Due to the harmonious interplay of the few ingredients, it is also a good fragrance for all four seasons, which I can imagine wearing on any occasion. Masculine, distinctive, but also not too strict and dominant. Well-balanced, the scent lifts the spirits.

A fantastic fragrance that, along with its four siblings in the Essenze line, clearly plays in a different league than the other fragrances from Ermenegildo Zegna. The price is almost a different sport: just under 200.00 euros is asked for 125ml of EdT. Is it worth that price? Everyone must decide for themselves. However, I don't know any other fragrance where patchouli is so prominently featured and yet never becomes too overpowering or dominant.

Patchouli has invited its friends to play, and they are having a lot of fun together.

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