07/15/2012

jtd
484 Reviews

jtd
Top Review
8
Cool Spicy
There is a way to get a spareness in overall feel that come from a well considered complexity. This is Equipage’s great success. The accords found in Equipage I’m sure have many building blocks, but the fragrance has one precise inflection. There is a cold sharpness that is not harsh, but precise. Equipage has a tone that reminds me of how sound travels through cold, dry air in winter. There is a snap and a crispness that doesn’t say, “fresh," but “frosty.”
Bergamot can have a silver/grey feel to it, but combined with a clove-like, peppery carnation and pine, it feels positively nippy. Even the herbal elements work in the same direction. What seems like clary sage and tarragon add a minty or camphorous bit that lines up squarely with both the pine and the carnation. As things progress, woody aspects enter. But here too, it’s not creamy or warm, although it is very smooth. Vetiver and moss keep things cool by making it feel just a little damp. There seems to be something like rosewood, which might warm the cheeks a bit, but it can’t really thaw the overall sensation.
Interestingly, Equipage works well in both worm and cool climates. When it’s cool out, Equipage feels snappy and crisp. In the heat it has a cooling “menthol” effect. Some see this as a chypre, some a fougère and others as an aromatic wood. I can see chypre, though I don’t really get the fougère vibe, and lean toward floral spicy wood. This neither/nor doesn't muddy the waters a bit. It makes Equipage subtle but distinctive.
Bergamot can have a silver/grey feel to it, but combined with a clove-like, peppery carnation and pine, it feels positively nippy. Even the herbal elements work in the same direction. What seems like clary sage and tarragon add a minty or camphorous bit that lines up squarely with both the pine and the carnation. As things progress, woody aspects enter. But here too, it’s not creamy or warm, although it is very smooth. Vetiver and moss keep things cool by making it feel just a little damp. There seems to be something like rosewood, which might warm the cheeks a bit, but it can’t really thaw the overall sensation.
Interestingly, Equipage works well in both worm and cool climates. When it’s cool out, Equipage feels snappy and crisp. In the heat it has a cooling “menthol” effect. Some see this as a chypre, some a fougère and others as an aromatic wood. I can see chypre, though I don’t really get the fougère vibe, and lean toward floral spicy wood. This neither/nor doesn't muddy the waters a bit. It makes Equipage subtle but distinctive.
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