10/26/2021
Pinkdawn
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How natural do green mangoes need to be in perfumes?
At the beginning of May it is not yet so hot in Egypt. A good time to travel. Jean-Claude Ellena did not choose this month by chance for his visit to Kitchener Island, home to one of the most beautiful botanical gardens in the world. The small islet was given to Lord Kitchener for his services as commander of the Egyptian army - in particular for his victory against the Mahdists in 1899 - and he began cultivating rare exotic plants there.
In his diary "The Dreamed Fragrance," published in 2012, Ellena recalls an avenue of mango trees that were just bearing their green fruit. He picks a mango and smells it. This moment becomes the inspiration for one of his most successful perfumes: Un Jardin sur le Nil - the award-winning and most popular fragrance in the Jardin series by Hermès.
He builds his composition around this scent of green mango. It corresponds exactly to his idea of a garden on the Nile. So far, he knew only what he did not want: to serve an olfactory cliché of the fragrances attributed to Egypt in the European tradition. Meaning: oriental-spicy, with lots of incense, etc., which never really existed.
Fortunately, Ellena has the gift of reinventing the scent of a garden on the Nile according to his imagination. The fact that the green mango that everyone immediately smells out in this perfume is actually not in this fragrance is typical of Ellena. He is not concerned with natural notes, but with that illusion that not only makes a fragrance more vivid, dramatic and expressive than any 100% natural oil of self-collected plants, but also transmits the intended feeling. This is exactly what I like about Ellena and his perfumes. Because for me, too, an artistically heightened, or for that matter synthetic, fragrance is the more interesting and sophisticated option, because it interprets nature, so to speak, rather than just banally depicting it 1:1.
In contrast to the less intellectual 100% organic natural and ethno fragrances, the Ellena creation provides additional layers and stimuli. Director's theatre, so to speak. Nature remains inspiration, which is used (predatorily), but which is presented more clearly, more refined - a process that is well known to creatives of all art fields. Ellena therefore likes to describe himself as a writer among perfumers, who is more concerned with creativity than pure composition. Un Jardin sur le Nil is considered a masterpiece by the head perfumer of Hermès.
Fragrances like vegetables - in this case tomato leaves and carrot seeds - still seem unusual today. They were one of the reasons I bought this fragrance in the summer. I now know or own a few fragrances by Ellena. One of my favorites is Un Jardin sur le Toit, released in 2011. But I have deliberately stopped to compare the two garden scents.
Un Jardin sur le Nil starts off cool and green. The idiosyncratic scent is immediately present - with a quiet sharpness that is probably due to the tomato leaves. I sense water nearby. The mighty river - overgrown with green plants on its muddy banks, their large, dark leaves, grapefruit-speckled by the sunlight, providing coolness in the African heat. You could watch this meditative, changing play of contrasts for hours.
The citrus notes at the start seem unusual due to the contrast of the tomato leaves and carrot seeds that quickly set in. Almost alien, but appealing.
The ponderous waters glide slowly along, putting you in a trance-like, dreamy mood. You feel the strength and serenity of the Nile. Everything is peaceful, calm, relaxed.
The aquatic-tinged loveliness of the lotus may bring in some water flower darkness, but nothing gloomy. Rather, mysteriousness that can't quite be pigeonholed. And an exquisite, grassy-green sweetness.
The river, the banks - a trance to which one gladly surrenders. Grasses and unfamiliar plants give freshness. There is nothing floral about the elegant sweetness. Rather something abstract. This is probably the green mango.
The strength and serenity of the Nile is present in this fragrance. The warmth of summer and a certain leisureliness are also noticeable. At the same time, this fragrance - especially in the beginning - has something fresh, crisp, grassy.
I feel the coolness of large plants with shady, dark green leaves.
In the heart note join other elements that bring something new, but fit harmoniously into the whole: Cob reed, for example, a touch of orange, barely perceptible, hyacinth and peony.
Only in the base, incense, musk, iris and labdanum appear and let the fragrance aromatic powdery finish like a long, long, red-gold sunset in Africa, which just makes wordless.
I don't notice any of the supposed cinnamon. Since the mighty plane tree already shows itself more clearly.
The fragrance is complex and spans its arc from summery smoothie over fruity notes and cool-looking flowers to the gentle, relaxing finish, which still remains spicy.
For me, Un Jardin sur le Nil is like a journey - varied, pleasant at every stage, unique, quiet and precious. An exquisite unisex daytimer for the summer.
Durability and sillage are not too pronounced. But the perfume is an Eau de Toilette, which just works in these delicate tones, otherwise there would certainly be a EdP to it long ago.
I have this fragrance last summer often worn and run it even on bright early autumn days, because its mildness corresponds with their mood.
In his diary "The Dreamed Fragrance," published in 2012, Ellena recalls an avenue of mango trees that were just bearing their green fruit. He picks a mango and smells it. This moment becomes the inspiration for one of his most successful perfumes: Un Jardin sur le Nil - the award-winning and most popular fragrance in the Jardin series by Hermès.
He builds his composition around this scent of green mango. It corresponds exactly to his idea of a garden on the Nile. So far, he knew only what he did not want: to serve an olfactory cliché of the fragrances attributed to Egypt in the European tradition. Meaning: oriental-spicy, with lots of incense, etc., which never really existed.
Fortunately, Ellena has the gift of reinventing the scent of a garden on the Nile according to his imagination. The fact that the green mango that everyone immediately smells out in this perfume is actually not in this fragrance is typical of Ellena. He is not concerned with natural notes, but with that illusion that not only makes a fragrance more vivid, dramatic and expressive than any 100% natural oil of self-collected plants, but also transmits the intended feeling. This is exactly what I like about Ellena and his perfumes. Because for me, too, an artistically heightened, or for that matter synthetic, fragrance is the more interesting and sophisticated option, because it interprets nature, so to speak, rather than just banally depicting it 1:1.
In contrast to the less intellectual 100% organic natural and ethno fragrances, the Ellena creation provides additional layers and stimuli. Director's theatre, so to speak. Nature remains inspiration, which is used (predatorily), but which is presented more clearly, more refined - a process that is well known to creatives of all art fields. Ellena therefore likes to describe himself as a writer among perfumers, who is more concerned with creativity than pure composition. Un Jardin sur le Nil is considered a masterpiece by the head perfumer of Hermès.
Fragrances like vegetables - in this case tomato leaves and carrot seeds - still seem unusual today. They were one of the reasons I bought this fragrance in the summer. I now know or own a few fragrances by Ellena. One of my favorites is Un Jardin sur le Toit, released in 2011. But I have deliberately stopped to compare the two garden scents.
Un Jardin sur le Nil starts off cool and green. The idiosyncratic scent is immediately present - with a quiet sharpness that is probably due to the tomato leaves. I sense water nearby. The mighty river - overgrown with green plants on its muddy banks, their large, dark leaves, grapefruit-speckled by the sunlight, providing coolness in the African heat. You could watch this meditative, changing play of contrasts for hours.
The citrus notes at the start seem unusual due to the contrast of the tomato leaves and carrot seeds that quickly set in. Almost alien, but appealing.
The ponderous waters glide slowly along, putting you in a trance-like, dreamy mood. You feel the strength and serenity of the Nile. Everything is peaceful, calm, relaxed.
The aquatic-tinged loveliness of the lotus may bring in some water flower darkness, but nothing gloomy. Rather, mysteriousness that can't quite be pigeonholed. And an exquisite, grassy-green sweetness.
The river, the banks - a trance to which one gladly surrenders. Grasses and unfamiliar plants give freshness. There is nothing floral about the elegant sweetness. Rather something abstract. This is probably the green mango.
The strength and serenity of the Nile is present in this fragrance. The warmth of summer and a certain leisureliness are also noticeable. At the same time, this fragrance - especially in the beginning - has something fresh, crisp, grassy.
I feel the coolness of large plants with shady, dark green leaves.
In the heart note join other elements that bring something new, but fit harmoniously into the whole: Cob reed, for example, a touch of orange, barely perceptible, hyacinth and peony.
Only in the base, incense, musk, iris and labdanum appear and let the fragrance aromatic powdery finish like a long, long, red-gold sunset in Africa, which just makes wordless.
I don't notice any of the supposed cinnamon. Since the mighty plane tree already shows itself more clearly.
The fragrance is complex and spans its arc from summery smoothie over fruity notes and cool-looking flowers to the gentle, relaxing finish, which still remains spicy.
For me, Un Jardin sur le Nil is like a journey - varied, pleasant at every stage, unique, quiet and precious. An exquisite unisex daytimer for the summer.
Durability and sillage are not too pronounced. But the perfume is an Eau de Toilette, which just works in these delicate tones, otherwise there would certainly be a EdP to it long ago.
I have this fragrance last summer often worn and run it even on bright early autumn days, because its mildness corresponds with their mood.
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