Leder 6

Fetisch

J.F. Schwarzlose Berlin 2015

The name "Schwarzlose" lends itself to some wicked jokes. One of my comrades in the Bundeswehr had to learn this the hard way from superiors. Well, talent for leadership apparently played no central role (at least during conscription times) in filling the middle ranks of the greatest reality satire in our country.

I mention this only because I have little to say about the scent itself and I don't want to dwell excessively on the disproportion between name and fragrance, which has been sufficiently addressed. All I can do is express my discomfort with "Leder 6." This is not surprising. Where the announcement "Milk" is present, it is usually not far behind, the…

But let's start from the beginning: Mild, soft leather with some sweetness and a tiny, diffuse hint that touches the fruity side. A bit of ethereal freshness enhances the impression of light leather. After a few minutes, a sweetish smoke forms, which I would probably enjoy, were it not for the rapid emergence of this milk, which I believe points to guaiac. And indeed. Amidst all the sweet-smoky plus hinted sour-fruity notes, this burnt milk always emerges, which I know quite similarly from "Palo Santo" (by Carner) - a synonym for guaiac.

This may undoubtedly score points as a beautiful, sweet, possibly even sensual little treat for others, but I feel a sense of overdose of caramel H-cream mush by midday, in which not even a leather spoon is stirred. On top of that, a sugary amber base adds (unnecessarily) extra sweetness.

However, I do hold the valiant balancing attempts in high regard: There’s the dusty-bitter resin note that quietly simmers in the background, the greenish touch in the smoke - apparently, the incense presents us with its green-sour side - or as it progresses, a dusty, light wood. They all at least try to tame the caramel or burnt milk. Still, by the afternoon, the thought occurs to me that I am dealing with sweetened H-cream on dry wood.

Leather? I am well aware that leather scents can indeed be very sweet and often (as today) can spring from a veritable toolbox of various ingredients - but here, as the time goes on, I can't even find a significant illusion of leather, the cream is too overpowering. The now conceivable remark that the leather is only mentioned in the top note seems rather pedantic to me. After all, that’s what the stuff is called!

Conclusion: For others. For my - highly subjective - assessment, I ask for understanding.

I thank MisterE for the sample.