Itasca / Le Vetiver - Itasca by Lubin

Itasca
Le Vetiver - Itasca
2010

Jazzbob
12/13/2018 - 05:03 PM
40
Top Review
9Scent 8Longevity 7Sillage 6Bottle

2010 vs. 2018

Itasca is, for me, a perfume that captures nature and makes it exciting through additional nuances. Classic, clean, masculine, yet timeless, modern, and with enough edge. A scent that maintains the balance between fresh and dark, between aromatic-spicy and calm-transparent. Images of the lake and national park of the same name in Minnesota seem absolutely fitting, due to the dense forests surrounding the tranquil-looking waters.

The top note initially surprises with a slightly fruity mandarin, less the sharp-citrusy grapefruit, before it quickly becomes spicier with juniper berry and its special aromatic quality, dry, bitter nutmeg, clove thankfully only in the smallest dose, while at the same time a hint of floral freshness wafts through the woods. As we move towards the base, it becomes more difficult to clearly name the individual notes. In any case, rather dry woods mix with slightly balsamic and earthy nuances. Even though the original name referred to vetiver, I perceive the sweet grass as one of several important components, rather than the main actor. I cannot make out typical incense, but I can sense myrrh.

Since I have a bottle of both the original and the new 2018 version, I can directly compare the two. Through the reformulation, Itasca remains, let’s say, 90-95% the same, but shifts more in a brighter direction. The dark-woody and slightly earthy element is now missing, making room for the initially almost grapefruit-like and rather green vetiver note. One might think that Itasca was originally composed for autumn and has now been adapted to spring through the changes. Java vetiver is supposed to lean more towards the subtly smoky, earthier direction, and therefore I suspect this is related to the reformulation. In the top note, I also miss a bit of the simultaneously fruity and resinous juniper berry in the new version. It is still present, just somewhat reduced, so I perceive a bit more hesperidic freshness. To what extent maceration can still have an influence, I cannot assess. Generally, one assumes a finished product, but sometimes scents change over a few months/years without becoming worse.

Unfortunately, the reformulated Itasca is not only a bit brighter but also somewhat slimmer. Nevertheless, Lubin's creation remains an excellent scent, which the wearer does not perceive as strongly after a while, while others can still smell it for several hours. The performance is nearly the same.

Regarding the bottle, I would like to add: I find the first version extremely ugly - what a dreadful font was used here and on top of that this color combination! But now the bottle has simply been turned around, so the relief is unprinted on the back and the side that was previously completely covered in copper-brown is now the front, formed by a sticker. Not beautiful either, but more stylish, I think. The spray head works excellently as always!

For nature lovers and those looking for a multi-layered, calm scent, Itasca is a good choice. When it comes to the theme of the forest, Itasca definitely ranks among the most successful perfumes. I can imagine it less on women and teenagers, but otherwise, I perceive it as intergenerational and versatile.
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12 Comments
Fresh21Fresh21 4 years ago
Great comment that paints a clear picture of the fragrance. Thank you & helpful trophy!
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CouchlockCouchlock 6 years ago
Thank you so much for this super informative comment! Now you've made me very curious about the old version :-) I think the newer one is wonderful...
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Gerus525Gerus525 7 years ago
I totally agree, great scent. But when it comes to the bottle, I see it the other way around. I think the old design is brilliant.
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MajorTomMajorTom 7 years ago
Very interesting comparison. I always find reformulations somewhere between exciting and risky... in this case, probably more exciting... definitely on the must-test list, and it deserves a trophy for that!
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Zauber600Zauber600 7 years ago
1
Great .. thanks for the comparison. I couldn't really notice much difference from memory, but I somehow remembered the old one as being 'rounder' in my mind .. it could also be that the aged scent had darkened towards the end (2013-2016).
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JazzbobJazzbob 7 years ago
I didn't really like it at first, but two years later, I do.
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JackoJacko 7 years ago
I was only able to test it once, definitely calls for a repeat ;)
Great comment!
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ErnstheiterErnstheiter 7 years ago
A great scent. I even have it in the "old bottle," which I think is nicer than the new one.
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TasteExploreTasteExplore 7 years ago
A great comment on one of my must-have top 10 fragrances... Thanks for that, and for the nuanced description of the differences. I’ll be getting the new one to form my own opinion. Being part of the over-50 crowd, I definitely find it radiates freshness and spice, and it seems my surroundings agree, as they occasionally compliment me on it.
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DuftsuchtDuftsucht 7 years ago
This exciting comparison confirms what I suspected: I'm going to try to swap my old version for the new one. The juniper spice is a bit too much for me, but otherwise, I love the scent. Thanks for the detailed description!
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DOCBEDOCBE 7 years ago
From my perspective, the match is more like 95%+, but it's definitely in the ballpark. I find the original bottle iconically grand, though that's a matter of taste. Ultimately, though, Itasca has started to give me too much of a daddy vibe, and that's coming from someone over 50.
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SchuleSchule 7 years ago
Thank you for this nuanced comparison that I've been wanting for a long time. It really helps to visualize the differences, and I can see that the new one might have its qualities too, especially if it’s less fuzzy and earthy. Thanks again, and I hope to make this comparison myself soon!
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