Gengis Khan (Eau de Toilette) by Marc de la Morandière
Bottle Design:
Serge Mansau
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Gengis Khan 1991 Eau de Toilette

8.1 / 10 39 Ratings
A popular perfume by Marc de la Morandière for men, released in 1991. The scent is spicy-woody. It is still in production.
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Main accords

Spicy
Woody
Green
Sweet
Oriental

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes Top Notes
Juniper berryJuniper berry ThymeThyme BergamotBergamot CloveClove NutmegNutmeg PimentoPimento LavenderLavender MintMint LemonLemon
Heart Notes Heart Notes
RoseRose Lily of the valleyLily of the valley JasmineJasmine
Base Notes Base Notes
FrankincenseFrankincense PatchouliPatchouli Pine needlePine needle BenzoinBenzoin VetiverVetiver
Ratings
Scent
8.139 Ratings
Longevity
8.033 Ratings
Sillage
7.533 Ratings
Bottle
7.636 Ratings
Submitted by Parfumissimo · last update on 03/06/2025.
Source-backed & verified

Smells similar

What the fragrance is similar to
Gengis Khan (After Shave Lotion) by Marc de la Morandière
Gengis Khan After Shave Lotion
Gengis Khan (Eau de Parfum) by Marc de la Morandière
Gengis Khan Eau de Parfum
Jacomo de Jacomo (1980) (Eau de Toilette) by Jacomo
Jacomo de Jacomo (1980) Eau de Toilette
Antaeus (Eau de Toilette) by Chanel
Antaeus Eau de Toilette

Reviews

8 in-depth fragrance descriptions
Drseid

828 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
Helpful Review 4  
Not The Brute Its Name Implies, But Quite The Strong Elusive Release...
Genghis Khan opens with a burst of ginger, soon coupling with a nice cardamom and cumin spice tandem to dirty up the ginger slightly. The heart notes include the ginger from the opening, adding patchouli and a nice herbal soapy accord with woody accents before transitioning to an amber base with the remnants of the remaining spice (which also peeps slightly into the heart notes as well). Projection and longevity are both average.

The ginger opening is quite a stunner, and I immediately knew I would like Genghis Khan from thereon out. The cardamom and cumin spice could easily spoil the party and come off as body odor, but Genghis Khan keeps them well enough in-check to only add some earthy aspects to the spicy scent. The patchouli and amber in Genghis Khan play key roles to slightly sweeten the spice, but always is in a support, letting the ginger and other spices take center stage throughout. While this scent came out in the "powerhouse early 90's," I really do not get a powerhouse vibe from Genghis Khan. It is plenty strong, but it is no projection beast, and while very spicy it is quite civil and pleasant at all times. I am a big fan of this one and give Genghis Khan a truly excellent 4 to 4.5 stars out of 5 and a strong buy recommendation. The vintage juice while long since discontinued and relatively scarce can still be found on eBay for non-wallet busting prices currently.
2 Comments
8Scent
Tinctureall

94 Reviews
Tinctureall
Tinctureall
Helpful Review 1  
Seamless, delightful and dapper masculinity
I can see now why the fascination. This review is for the vintage. It makes a seamlessly smooth entrance with all the elements of citrus, mosses and woods all in an immaculate state. It reminds me of a gentleman making an entrance wearing the most dapper suit in dark ivory without a single mark or crinkle. Not a hair out of place, an elegant and obviously expensive slimline watch peeking from a crisp shirt. Just to stop this being too smooth and overly slick, a saucy dark ginger spicy character dances behind the gentleman, like a smart but mischievous son, however one who is obviously very well brought up.

The two similar, but delicately discordant pair are playing games with each other. Each one imperceptibly trying to ruffle the others smooth exterior but never really causing more than a ripple in this immaculate presentation. The individual elements present themselves in the menu for the contemplative study thereof. Each for a short while like a classical jazz ensemble allowing each part of the band to shine and display their individual talents for a while before melting seamlessly back into the whole. No one note pokes out and drowns any other part. This beautifully and professionally trained proficient band play as one.

This has often been described as a powerhouse scent, but I disagree. It does possess the character of many of the eighties perfumes, but only the good parts of them, not the noisy sections. This is smart and extremely sophisticated. I bought this in a spirit of camaraderie and homage to a gentleman who has often told of it. Finally I know what he means now. A long personal curiosity finally assuaged.
0 Comments
TAAKE

22 Reviews
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TAAKE
TAAKE
Top Review 24  
"I am the punishment of God."
"And if you had not committed such terrible sins, God would not have sent me as punishment over you." (Genghis Khan)

Now, as the spray button is pressed to the max and a burst of sparkling magic fills the air, the olfactory journey begins in a distant land ruled by an omnipotent scent - "Genghis Khan".

25 years have passed since the introduction of this fragrance. When production was halted, it seemed lost and was nearly impossible to find even on international auction platforms. It is now the year 2014, and since last year, the workshops of the French perfumery "Marc de la Morandière" are once again in full swing. All the in-house classics from the 90s have been revived and are now (partially reformulated) exclusively available on the website of the Parisian fragrance house - including "Genghis Khan", an Eau de Parfum that truly deserves the honor of reintroduction.

With a loud war cry, the top note rides onto the battlefield with a variety of spices. Led by lavender and citrus accords, there is no hierarchy among them; no component of the top note smells exactly as one would expect, rather I perceive an extremely intoxicating combination of these. From the flanks, nuances of cherries and dark berries emerge, reminiscent of Gainsboro's "Exception" yet entirely different. A cool breeze mingles, creating a refreshingly spicy opening. Drakkar Noir? Yes, indeed - and definitely no. Zesty and distinctive, spicy and fresh, slightly sweet yet so bitter - A UNIQUE TOP NOTE!

With the heart note, rose and jasmine march in, in a perfected combination with patchouli as I know it from my beloved classics "Antaeus", "Photo", and "Tsar". A wonderfully heavy and potent fragrance accord lies on my skin - masculine and mystical, rich and present. The top note shows no sign of dissipating, fighting side by side with the heart, unwavering and to the last man. In all its fullness, the upper two-thirds of the fragrance pyramid are like a glass of fragrant red wine made from Nebbiolo grapes, expressive and long-aged - A COMPLETE SINFUL-SENSUAL DELIGHT!

With the introduction of the base note, no prisoners are taken. Opulent pine needles as I know and love them from "Dhofar", paired with warm smoky benzoin accords reminiscent of "Body Kouros", swarm onto the battlefield and cover the blood-soaked ground with dark ash. An overwhelming intensity of perfectly harmonizing fragrance combinations that I have rarely encountered.

Despite all the opulence that "Genghis Khan" carries within, it is not a slaughterer but rather a strategist. It does not find its place among powerhouse fragrances; it kills quietly and with calculation. The sillage is strong, yet not overwhelming. The longevity is very good, appropriate for an "Eau de Parfum", and the overall appearance of the fragrance is absolutely unique.

The exotically occult bottle is made of black glass with dark red lettering, features a hard plastic cap, and was designed by Serge Mansau, who has previously worked for brands such as Hermes, Dior, and Guerlain. The "Eau de Parfum" is exclusively available in a 100ml bottle through the Marc de la Morandière website for 120 EUR plus international shipping costs. I also received five original samples of other fragrances from the house for free as a bonus and am extremely satisfied with the purchasing process. To what extent the fragrance has been reformulated, I cannot say, as I unfortunately never had the pleasure of experiencing the original release.

CONCLUSION: If you enjoy dark, potent fragrances like Chanel's "Antaeus" or Guy Laroche's "Drakkar Noir", you are in the right place; if you favor substantial classics with strong sillage, you must test this; and if you have mourned the lost treasure in the "black urn" over all these past years, then virtually make your way to France and decimate the limited edition - aux armes!
15 Comments
Meggi

1018 Reviews
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Meggi
Meggi
Top Review 13  
Great Confrontation at the Ugra
In the autumn of the year 1480, Ahmed Khan marched with his Golden Horde to attack the Grand Duchy of Moscow because the Russians had failed to pay him tribute. At the Ugra River, the Mongolian and Russian forces faced each other for weeks until the Mongols eventually withdrew without a battle. The reasons for this can be speculated upon.

A strange people, these Mongols, one might think. They conquer half the known world almost effortlessly and then, on November 11, 1480, simply go home, so to speak. No less remarkable is the fact that their selected brutality in warfare was accompanied by relatively peaceful and orderly conditions within the vast empire, along with a certain degree of religious tolerance. So, it wasn't simply chaos - on the contrary: The cruelty was likely calculated and deliberate. Psychological warfare.

Only against this background, if one wishes to follow the name at all, does the scent seem to be interpretable to me. Controlled, measured strength, always applied moderately. Even I, as a self-proclaimed non-expert in fragrances from the eighties, have encountered much stronger scents from that era.

Gengis Khan stood on my watchlist for almost two years (of course due to the captivating introductory comment) until I was able to obtain a sample through a swap of KC2503 - many thanks! - "Almost two years" also means that I was still near the beginning of my perfume journey back then, and my scent preferences have changed significantly since. Today, I probably wouldn't have added Gengis Khan to the list.

At least I don't have the typical difficulties with it that the often extravagant style of eighties fragrances tends to cause me. This Khan not only doesn't overwhelm me, but also accompanies me gracefully throughout the day.

Like the swirling Mongolian cavalry, it cannot be pinned down to a specific order, at least none that I could grasp. Thus, the development described in the course of the review is not a complete transformation, but rather a shift in focus that never lets its origins fade from memory.

At the forefront, there is a subtle yet stylistically strong bergamot, accompanied initially by fresher, green herbs rather than the mentioned spices. Perhaps basil or clary sage. The lavender is hardly musty; instead, it contributes a gentle sweetness. Gradually, the fresh herbs are replaced by dry spices. Up to a truly spicy appearance that - around the third hour - reaches a peak of warmth from clove and nutmeg and already announces the conifers of the base.

The rose, until now only a hint, becomes clearly identifiable around noon. It is a fruity-berry variant that, of course, does not fully unleash its potential but also subordinates itself to the overall picture of a spicy scent that over time even takes on the diffuse, potato-like nuance that I occasionally perceive in such fragrances. Nevertheless, Gengis Khan, albeit with reservations, can still be described as somewhat fresh until early afternoon.

The afternoon also brings a mossy twist, light enough never to become intrusive. The conifer note behaves no less modestly; I only perceive smoke as a protagonist from the seventh or eighth hour. A hint of nutmeg or clove from the supposed top note remains consistently warming, although the main burden of the warming work is likely now resting with benzoin. Patchouli provides a dull, earthy, rough garment. Very serious. This notorious Khan was probably not a great joker.

Conclusion: Gengis Khan showcases some powerful elements that could make quite a noise. However, a 'Mongol storm' is not unleashed here. While I might not speak of a 'Pax Mongolica', I definitely expected more of a commotion. For fans of 80s fragrances, Gengis Khan is certainly a test recommendation, but it won't be going on my wish list.
12 Comments
Taurus

1169 Reviews
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Taurus
Taurus
Very helpful Review 11  
Rumored fragrances last longer
Well, this black bottle in urn design with red lettering is quite fascinating. I assume this is meant to be an urn and not a Mongolian "Henkelmann" in which the Asian steppe riders carried their meals from conquest to conquest.

There is relatively little reliable information about the death and burial site of Genghis or Chinggis Khan. While his date of death is known (August 18, 1227), the exact cause of death is not. It is strongly suspected that he died from internal injuries after a riding accident. Allegedly, all living beings in his vicinity, as well as 2000 people who attended his funeral, were killed to keep the burial site secret according to Mongolian tradition. To this day, his grave has not been found.

Accordingly, the huge Genghis Khan mausoleum in Ordos, Inner Mongolia, is merely a cenotaph, a memorial with an empty coffin that does not really qualify as a grave.

Therefore, it is puzzling what this urn bottle is all about, while the content is no less appealing, provided you enjoy the bold fragrances of the 1980s.

At first, this Eau de Toilette seems relatively capricious. Initially, you perceive fresh-spicy notes, underpinned with a good amount of bergamot, gradually forming a structure from the complex jumble. In between, thyme, mint, and pine needle flash through with a slightly herbaceous-green to piercing character, which is initially confusing. But gradually, the fragrance molecules organize themselves into a military unit and march forward in a disciplined manner.

What develops from this is a strong spicy-oriental-powdery overcloud - very filling and with almost phenomenal longevity. Genghis Khan remains cultivated with dark floral nuances, without acting too wild or animalistic. At this stage, it reminds me of a mix of Chanel's Antaeus, Balenciaga's pour Homme, and Exciting Amber by Gammon.

In the later drydown, which lasts for hours, Genghis Khan becomes somewhat gentler, with incense and patchouli taking the lead.
However, it is finely balanced with the other ingredients in a sweet manner, so that it could actually be worn by women without having to fear being looked at askance, provided they survive the top notes.

Thus, Genghis Khan is a rather interesting olfactory homage to the Mongolian khan with all sorts of exciting twists and an unusual course - somewhere fluctuating between rugged and impetuous, and sensual and mysterious. One does not necessarily need a historical preference for this, but those who have issues with bold fragrances from the 80s may experience their personal nasal scourge here at worst.

Nostalgics might possibly be slightly enchanted. It's a pity that it was discontinued - nice that Marc de la Morandière has virtually revived it as an Eau de Parfum.

At this point, many thanks to Cappellusman for the decant!
8 Comments
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Statements

6 short views on the fragrance
1
Vintage EDT: A lovely child of its glorious era. Good addition to my collection of early 90s perfumes. It stands proud but doesn't stand out
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6
2
Spice islands of the Great Mogul attract all sailors with their resinous scent. A blend of spicy floral smoky woods. Extremely oriental-unique-good!
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2 Comments
5
5
Conqueror with radiant-fresh-spicy power! His realm conquers many: warm, amber, woody, slightly citrus-floral, balsamic. Peoples!
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5 Comments
3
2
Anyone who has issues with the heavy scents from the '80s might find themselves facing their personal olfactory torment here.
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2 Comments
3
1
80s spice club with a bitter fruity opening and a resinous sweet base. I don't want to smell like this anymore today.
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1 Comment
1
1
A polished retro with a nuanced herbiness from thyme and juniper & warm soapy citrus.
All on a backdrop of evergreens.
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