Charles Street 2010

Charles Street by Mark Birley
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7.7 / 10 87 Ratings
A popular perfume by Mark Birley for men, released in 2010. The scent is leathery-spicy. It is still in production.
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Main accords

Leathery
Spicy
Smoky
Woody
Fruity

Fragrance Pyramid

Top Notes Top Notes
AngelicaAngelica Carrot seedCarrot seed CoffeeCoffee ThymeThyme NutmegNutmeg
Heart Notes Heart Notes
RaspberryRaspberry JasmineJasmine Lily of the valleyLily of the valley Orange blossomOrange blossom SaffronSaffron TuberoseTuberose RoseRose
Base Notes Base Notes
LeatherLeather AmbergrisAmbergris PatchouliPatchouli MuskMusk VanillaVanilla

Perfumer

Ratings
Scent
7.787 Ratings
Longevity
7.264 Ratings
Sillage
6.463 Ratings
Bottle
6.654 Ratings
Submitted by MaxFavier, last update on 28.12.2022.

Reviews

4 in-depth fragrance descriptions
9
Bottle
6
Sillage
6
Longevity
8
Scent
Eisbaer

8 Reviews
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Eisbaer
Eisbaer
5  
Michigan's in the rear view now.
In 2014 it began - my great journey into the land of niche fragrances. At that time I was still a student librarian (not poor, but much poorer than today) and without any really noteworthy knowledge about fragrances. Not to mention the ability to identify individual fragrance components. No, at that time there was only one thing that really counted in the field of perfume: my curiosity. If I was interested in the appearance of a bottle, I had a bottling line created - completely independent of the components and scents it contained. As a result, of course, a considerable number of the fragrances tested did not make it back onto my wish list. Not that they smelled bad - God forbid - but they just unfortunately could only pick me up very rarely, especially compared to very well known designer fragrance classics such as the "Dior Homme", which I loved then and still love today.

But one copy stood out from the crowd from the very beginning: Mark Birley's "Charles Street". A quiet eau de parfum in the truest sense of the word. But for my feeling at that time (and partly still today) it was simply incredibly elegant, high-class, adult, noble... and soothing. And even at that time a 125ml bottle was fortunately even affordable for me. It was never expensive as far as I know. And even today, when it doesn't really exist anymore, there are still a few left over bottles that are offered for small money. The scent was too unknown then and still is today. Maybe it's because its composition wasn't really groundbreaking - Tom Ford and Parfums de Marly have very similar fragrances, but they are still successful on the market today. I think Tom Ford's "Tuscan Leather" is probably the original scent. Well then, I'm an old representative of the "Charles Street" fraction, because I like the bottle best by far, and of course not least, because my heart connects very fond memories with "Charles Street"
The fragrance is a flawless blend of leather, raspberry and coffee. It doesn't really go through a major development, but as I said, it's also generally a quiet contemporary. It only radiates at the beginning and after only a few hours it becomes absolutely skin-tight. On clothes it lasts much longer, like any perfume. A shy Mark Birley. Since I wear fragrances mostly for myself, I don't mind that much. Many people even like that certain "office suitability" and reserve. And as a rather shy person, I'd prefer quieter fragrances anyway, both in my leisure time and for going out in a suit and tie. In my opinion, "Charles Street" is not for the summer and doesn't really want to go with T-shirt and capri pants - but of course that's a matter of taste and everyone should wear his or her fragrance in a way that makes him or her feel comfortable.

At this point, a little question for the community: Do you know when a fragrance immediately awakens in you associations with a certain place? When I smell "Charles Street", I keep thinking of London. I see a man in his mid-40s with a full beard in front of me, his hair on the side with a slight grey shadow. He's wearing a coat and a Burberry scarf and a flat cap. In the early evening hours, this gentleman is standing on Westminster Bridge, leaning against a railing and looking over to Elizabeth Tower. Big Ben is just beating with his characteristic sound and announcing the full hour. The man listens to the sounds of the bells. And he's wearing Mark Birley's "Charles Street." I share this association with you because I have often observed this fascinating quality in various fragrances: ...this ability to cause instantaneous head movements in relation to specific locations. Now London is also a city that I like very much. Unfortunately, it has been far too long since I visited it.

As for me personally: Mark Birley's "Charles Street" was and is a fragrance that I have been wearing since 2014, preferably in the winter months. I particularly like the spicy leather component, it harmonizes perfectly with the raspberry and comes to the fore a bit more after about an hour. The coffee remains rather subdued, but is subliminally perceptible and rounds off the composition wonderfully (perhaps otherwise it would have added a bit too much bitterness to the overall concept). I especially liked to wear the perfume during my studies when I was walking around on foot. Early in the morning on my way to the university, when it was still dark and the cold wind was blowing around my coat, I buried my face deeply in my scarf and breathed "Charles Street" while I devoutly listened to the Milk Carton Kids on my music player. Even during the regular evening walks, "Charles Street" was, and still is, a very faithful companion of mine
One small point of criticism at the end: the bottle, with its tasteful simplicity and unfair colouring, is without doubt one of the most beautiful I have in my collection. Unfortunately, it is relatively massive due to its cube shape and lies a bit bulky in the hand. But this could also be due to the filling quantity of 125ml. It is or was still available in the Traveller's Edition with 75ml capacity. They certainly grip better, but unfortunately they are not nearly as beautiful as the glass flacon. Furthermore, the pump system is not quite optimal, because on the one hand it is a bit stingy and on the other hand it leaks quite often. Due to the discontinued production I will get some more Traveller-Flacons soon and I will be happy to check if they can be sprayed better.

By and large, "Charles Street" remains an integral part of my collection and has become a very important companion for me. In late summer 2019 my beloved grandfather died and left me his leather coat. I always feel very warm and also a little comforted when I put on a comfortable sweater after a long hot shower, wear the leather coat over it and, after a few sprays of "Charles Street", walk out the door and meet the world outside. I love it when fragrances manage to give me a sense of calm and give me a feeling of security and confidence. I am always on the lookout for such examples. With "Charles Street," Mark Birley has virtually created my first "adult" fragrance. I'm grateful for that
If "Mark Birley Charles Street" were music:

"Michigan" by The Milk Carton Kids
"Love Of Mine" by Nickel Creek "Great Lakes" by John Smith
4 Comments
ColinM

516 Reviews
ColinM
ColinM
2  
Crisp and refined
A really successful blind buy for me for once. You can safely trust the positive reviews, it is a really nice scent indeed. Solid, masculine, really elegant. Although I don’t get some of the notes listed, what I do get is surely coffee (pungent, dry, austere and earthy coffee beans – don’t think of any diabete-inducing Mugler’s type of coffee), a really well-crafted angelica note smelling leafy and bittersweet (better say bitter-“aqueous” actually), a pungent fruity accord which is actually more boozy than fruity (think of the smell of wine corks) and a really nice, robust leather accord. Now, the comparison to Tuscan Leather is surely correct, although Mark Birley smells decidedly more “virile” and dry for me. But surely that’s the ballpark. Smooth, slightly sweet leather. The thing is Birley costs a fraction of that, and is also quite more interesting, creative and complex, so it’s really easy to see the winner here.

Other comparisons came to my head, basically many recent fruity-leather scents – from Cuir X by La Parfumerie Moderne, to a sort of drier, darker, “gentleman” version of Parfum d’Empire’s Cuir Ottoman and so on. I really, really appreciate the mood of Charles Street, as it brilliantly manages to smell at once contemporary (even “trendy” for its “polished leather & fruity notes” structure) and austere, sophisticatedly echoing vintage dark leather fougères. This is what makes it better than most of the modern leathers mentioned, this really elegant sort of “mature” vibe perfectly fitting the concept (a tribute to Birley’s club?). I think Bourdon did a really good job in blending classic and modern leather inspirations. As regard of the general mood and style, also Bentley for Men Intense came to my mind at some point – the notes are quite different (not completely though, the ambery booziness is quite here too), but I think they share some similar mood, really nailing it in terms of self-confident class and quality. Projection and longevity aren’t really top notch, but apart from this... really good!

8/10
0 Comments
5
Scent
Drseid

819 Reviews
Drseid
Drseid
2  
Pass This Street By...
I had high hopes for this one, but alas it was not meant to be... On my skin I do not get any of the coffee... Instead, I get a dominant raspberry note that meshes with a strong patchouli base. The combo is actually a tad on the sour side. Not much development here and the scent becomes somewhat cloying over time. I don't hate Charles Street, but I definitely don't recommend it. 2.5 stars out of 5.
0 Comments
Trax

17 Reviews
Trax
Trax
2  
Pungent raspberry over ashy leather.
Starts out watery leathery, an almost Montale ashy oudy quality to the leather. Theres something in here reminds me of newly paved asphalt on a humid summers eve. A rooty sweet raspberry note runs through it, not fresh, pungent almost. Pungent jam. I guess it's the angelica root teamed up with vanilla.
Stays pretty linear on me and retains the watery cologne feel, so that's about it. Mild, pleasant, very wearable :)
0 Comments

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