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SchatzSucher
Top Review
51
What else you can do at Paco Rabanne....
The name Paco Rabanne has the effect of a red rag on many perfumes. Think of fragrances like One Million, PureXS and Invictus, where hardly a good hair is left untouched, and it's probably also thieving fun to rip these very cleverly produced and marketed fragrances (and their wearers) apart in the air. I admit that I don't like every new creation there either.
Nevertheless, the mouse doesn't bite a thread at the fact that these ridiculed and despised creations probably sell very well in real life out there. No matter how much we grumble
But in addition to these eye-catching house fragrances, there is also a world of fragrances by Paco Rabanne that is more subtle and appeals to other perfumers and customers.
And this is where I'd like to jump in
Paco Rabanne first became known and famous in the mid-60s as a fashion designer with groundbreaking futuristic creations. He was the first to use industrially appearing materials such as cardboard, metal, plastic, glass fibres, which earned him the nickname "plumber" or "metal worker" (as Coco Chanel liked to call him).
In 1969, in collaboration with the Puig company, the first fragrance was launched on the market "Calandre", or "radiator grille". At first a ridiculous appearing name.
But with regard to his fashionable creations, the name does not seem to me to be so inappropriately chosen.
At some point Calandre was replaced by this still available version.
And I must say that I like Calandre very much
This fragrance actually has a cool metallic appearance. And he is a quite outstanding interpretation of my dear Chypre-theme.
This fragrance has been on my mind for quite some time and I still believe that many chypre fragrances, which were actually intended for the ladies' department, can be worn by men very well
Calandre is also one of them. Is this fragrance in no phase of its course really sweet or playful.
The structure corresponds to my nose according to the classic chypre knitting pattern, a prelude with citrus notes, which here do not appear intrusive or artificially artificial. They form the basic structure on which the floral notes are then based. These floral notes are not sweet by nature either, they seem rather tart, cool and a bit brittle. In addition, there are slight woody accents and a distinct powdery note, which seems almost like the finest metal dust to me and underlines this shimmering coolness of the fragrance. I also think that a portion of aldehydes was used as well.
In addition, the similarity of Calandre to Rive Gauche by Yves Saint Laurent is more than clear.
Up to the base note, the two fragrances are so similar that it becomes quite difficult to tell them apart. Only from the base note on, both fragrances separate again, Calandre remains more floral, while Rive Gauche additionally develops a note that reminds a bit of fresh printer's ink.
Calandre has a very good shelf life, 8 hours should be easy to use, on clothes the scent can be perceived very well the next day. It radiates quite well, but is not obtrusive.
Calandre looks just as good with costume and suit as he does with evening dress. The fragrance is the perfect complement to it. And seasonally I can't make any restrictions there. A cooler scent can also be very good in winter
Unfortunately I don't know the original version of Calandre, so a comparison would be very interesting. But if the current version already smells so promising....
When I look at the "Habe-Ichs" like this, Calandre is one of the less known scents. I could now say nice like this, then there is more left for the lovers ;-)
But the lovers of chypre fragrances should take a nose here and let themselves be enriched by a beautiful and interesting fragrance experience.
Another very beautiful representative of the lesser known Paco Rabanne fragrance world is Métal from 1979, which embodies cool metallic and chypre just as perfectly and which I find just as great.
And that one can do more under the name Paco Rabanne than to bring perfumes on the market has been proven here
Calandre would definitely be a buy for me, but I already have Rive Gauche in the current version, which I think is terrific. And since the resemblance is very strong, I'll stick with Rive Gauche.
I thank Yatagan very much for this wonderful fragrance experience!