05/05/2020
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Modern summer fougère
The surest way to hate Fougère Zero is to measure it against the original Fougère by Harry Lehmann. Fougère Zero" has far less to do with this enormous, dust-dry fragrance monument bursting with classicism, to which not only I have dedicated a 10-point commentary here, than Coca-Cola has to do with Coca-Cola Zero (because of the nevertheless somehow fitting allusion, the name also gets 8 points), in fact almost nothing. You have to appreciate this fragrance as an independent scent. Then you can also like it.
The original Fougère was discontinued due to the whole oakmoss allergy thing, by the way, not only the EdP, but also the cologne. That's all the more unfortunate since I was late for a hamster purchase. Instead, after a few weeks or months of experimenting, Mr. Lehmann has added this completely oakmoss free New Fougère to his assortment, where it is reportedly well received by customers.
It certainly deserves this, and despite all the pain over the exit of the Only True Fougère, I would like to do a little advertising here in time for the start of the summer season for this fragrance with only one owner (me), no wish list editor and at least one flag (Bravo, AmyAmy!).
Fougère Zero comes to my nose as a very modern interpreted Fougère without fear of synthetic notes (also with aquatic notes), which is purely descriptive and not devaluing, therefore the fragrance is - typical for clay - rather linear, but a certain development can be seen.
I find the beginning to be extremely fresh green with the already mentioned tones that play with the aquatic. It's not sweet in the true sense of the word, but it does have some light green mint dust notes, which give a slightly sweet impression (here one could think of a good peppermint chewing gum or the distant scent of Menthe à L'Eau wafting from a Paris bistro table). This makes the fragrance, although I'm generally not so fond of this young-old box, in my opinion also decidedly compatible with young men.
In contrast to the compact, massive Ur-Fougère, "Zero" is voluminous and roomy and also has a certain mass ("light" I wouldn't call it), but at the same time it is airily loosened up. If it were a gourmand, I would think of this fluffy chocolate with air bubbles; since we are in the forest genre with Fougère, I'd say: loosely piled up, a little bit moist, but still a little mixed up, grass, ferns and foliage.
Over time, Fougère Zero becomes a little drier and more classic, but after a few hours, maybe four or five, the fun is over here. The new recipe apparently not only had to do without moss, but also some fixatives.
Fougère Zero reminds me a little of two other recent Lehmänner, namely once (mainly because of the "mint dove effect") at the "Jubiläum 90", which has few fans here, and then of "Mirage", this primarily because of the very special synthetic freshness, which seems modern in the best sense of the word, and which I described there as "ethereal". Mirage is now also well received here in the Parfumo Forum, and although I find Mirage to be a nose tip more unique, mysterious and balanced, I'd grant Mirage the same treatment as this fragrance.
The review comes just in time for the approaching summer (despite the fact that it's raining outside and you've been wanting to turn on the heating for a week now, I have no doubt that we'll soon be back to 40 degrees again): Because just like Mirage (or Esterel, but very different from the Fougère ancestor), this is a sunny midsummer scent with a powerful refreshing kick integrated.
The original Fougère was discontinued due to the whole oakmoss allergy thing, by the way, not only the EdP, but also the cologne. That's all the more unfortunate since I was late for a hamster purchase. Instead, after a few weeks or months of experimenting, Mr. Lehmann has added this completely oakmoss free New Fougère to his assortment, where it is reportedly well received by customers.
It certainly deserves this, and despite all the pain over the exit of the Only True Fougère, I would like to do a little advertising here in time for the start of the summer season for this fragrance with only one owner (me), no wish list editor and at least one flag (Bravo, AmyAmy!).
Fougère Zero comes to my nose as a very modern interpreted Fougère without fear of synthetic notes (also with aquatic notes), which is purely descriptive and not devaluing, therefore the fragrance is - typical for clay - rather linear, but a certain development can be seen.
I find the beginning to be extremely fresh green with the already mentioned tones that play with the aquatic. It's not sweet in the true sense of the word, but it does have some light green mint dust notes, which give a slightly sweet impression (here one could think of a good peppermint chewing gum or the distant scent of Menthe à L'Eau wafting from a Paris bistro table). This makes the fragrance, although I'm generally not so fond of this young-old box, in my opinion also decidedly compatible with young men.
In contrast to the compact, massive Ur-Fougère, "Zero" is voluminous and roomy and also has a certain mass ("light" I wouldn't call it), but at the same time it is airily loosened up. If it were a gourmand, I would think of this fluffy chocolate with air bubbles; since we are in the forest genre with Fougère, I'd say: loosely piled up, a little bit moist, but still a little mixed up, grass, ferns and foliage.
Over time, Fougère Zero becomes a little drier and more classic, but after a few hours, maybe four or five, the fun is over here. The new recipe apparently not only had to do without moss, but also some fixatives.
Fougère Zero reminds me a little of two other recent Lehmänner, namely once (mainly because of the "mint dove effect") at the "Jubiläum 90", which has few fans here, and then of "Mirage", this primarily because of the very special synthetic freshness, which seems modern in the best sense of the word, and which I described there as "ethereal". Mirage is now also well received here in the Parfumo Forum, and although I find Mirage to be a nose tip more unique, mysterious and balanced, I'd grant Mirage the same treatment as this fragrance.
The review comes just in time for the approaching summer (despite the fact that it's raining outside and you've been wanting to turn on the heating for a week now, I have no doubt that we'll soon be back to 40 degrees again): Because just like Mirage (or Esterel, but very different from the Fougère ancestor), this is a sunny midsummer scent with a powerful refreshing kick integrated.
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