Vanilla & The Sea Phoenix Botanicals

From a bitter-stinging opening, caramel-like vanilla emerges. The sting quickly gives way to an exotic, elegant bitterness that encourages constant sniffing. I would never have thought of it on my own, but the bitter-spicy scent of perhaps sun-dried seaweed can - with a bit of imagination - be considered accurate. Not as a simple imitation, which would inevitably fail, as everyone knows who has been to the sea. Instead, a dark, strong, almost malty vanilla stands as a worthy, thoroughly mature counterpart that underscores the perfumed ambition of the whole.

Already after about an hour, it has "sea-ed" out, as orange aspects come into play, primarily "nimm2" neroli. In this composition, it is original again.

I also find the floral contribution special: The tuberose is comparatively un-floral, nutty-creamy, not unlike Baruti's 'Voyance'; nevertheless, the fragrance now gains a surprisingly white floral aura, supported not least by the orange blossom corner. The result is creamy, fruity - and successful. Possibly an extravagant sunscreen, distantly related to that from '19 Louanges Profanes' by Pierre Guillaume. So "ge-sea-t" becomes "ge-beach-t." But our bitter sting is always present. This is not for little girls.

Was there anything else? Oh yes: vanilla! I almost forgot. It hasn't had a place in the front row for a long time.

Thus, the core of the fragrance seems to be reached, the remaining part feels like an afterglow. From early afternoon, I initially perceive an underlying wax note à la Neuffer, while the floral-creamy aspect takes on a hint of dried apricot and gradually fades away. This so-so retreat sets in early, but the journey to this point has been enjoyable for me.

I thank Fluxit for the sample.