05/27/2013

Ysbrand
84 Reviews

Ysbrand
Helpful Review
6
Ambery iris
Infusion d´Iris Absolue is not a higher concentration of the eau de toilette, as i thought. Since i love orris fragances i like both of them, but i can imagine someone loving one and totally disliking other because the moods are, if not opposite, very different. The eau de toilette is cool, green and dewy, very spring-like. The absolue is more oriental, warm and enveloping. I would say they just share the iris.
The way it starts is very much my cup of tea. bitter, rooty iris, probably enhanced with carrot seed. Rich and thick. The neroli is not so evident, but it gives off a freshness that you notice when its gone. Same happens with the orange blossom. It never steals the attention from the orris, but the concoction is dense, bitter and has an oily floral edge.
As the fragance evolves the iris is more powdery and, definitely, polished, but still veers to the bitter and the vigourous. Mastic resin and benzoin are quite noticeable, making the Absolue a resinous, balmy take on iris. I catch a bitter almond-like whiff too. So far i love it.
Vanilla and tonka make some sort of inflexion in the developement of the fragance. It gets sweeter, the bitterness and resinous quality fade. When this happens i find the fragance more, hmm, average, and i loose interest. Is like the sweetness from the vanilla kind of neutralizes what i found thrilling in this "infusion", not completely though. Truth is that the more it stays on the skin the more sheer and "pleasant" it turns. It becomes a comforting, safe scent on one hand, that still smells good. But on the other i find it uninspiring, older and, well, boring. I appreciate the drydown is still about iris, but is so powdery and ambery and tame that makes me wonder if it is the same perfume i sprayed.
Still i come back to it sometimes, because the first couple hours i enjoy it very much: the orris is very intense and the warmer approach to it makes it suitable for colder days.
The way it starts is very much my cup of tea. bitter, rooty iris, probably enhanced with carrot seed. Rich and thick. The neroli is not so evident, but it gives off a freshness that you notice when its gone. Same happens with the orange blossom. It never steals the attention from the orris, but the concoction is dense, bitter and has an oily floral edge.
As the fragance evolves the iris is more powdery and, definitely, polished, but still veers to the bitter and the vigourous. Mastic resin and benzoin are quite noticeable, making the Absolue a resinous, balmy take on iris. I catch a bitter almond-like whiff too. So far i love it.
Vanilla and tonka make some sort of inflexion in the developement of the fragance. It gets sweeter, the bitterness and resinous quality fade. When this happens i find the fragance more, hmm, average, and i loose interest. Is like the sweetness from the vanilla kind of neutralizes what i found thrilling in this "infusion", not completely though. Truth is that the more it stays on the skin the more sheer and "pleasant" it turns. It becomes a comforting, safe scent on one hand, that still smells good. But on the other i find it uninspiring, older and, well, boring. I appreciate the drydown is still about iris, but is so powdery and ambery and tame that makes me wonder if it is the same perfume i sprayed.
Still i come back to it sometimes, because the first couple hours i enjoy it very much: the orris is very intense and the warmer approach to it makes it suitable for colder days.
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