Pollita
02/12/2021 - 04:35 AM
55
Top Review
9Scent 7Longevity 6Sillage 10Bottle 9Pricing

Unsweet Vanilla

Under "I like," my profile lists vanilla as my first favorite note. Whether I truly like vanilla more than all other fragrance notes, I cannot say. I do enjoy many notes. However, a glance at my collection and the "Former" fragrances quickly reveals that vanilla holds a high place in my preferences.

There are so many differences when it comes to vanilla. From gourmand, often combined with fruity notes, to food-grade sweet, as often found in Comptoir Sud Pacifique, to beautiful orientals, vanilla loves to mix into the most diverse compositions. In combination with indolic flowers, it can even have an animalistic quality. At least for some noses.

My favorite vanilla is special. It is not the gourmand vanilla. The vanilla that I cherish as a perfect companion and with which I never feel perfumed, but rather completely connected, is a light oriental vanilla with a slightly spicier counterpart. This could be patchouli, it could be woody-resinous tones, a bit of smoke, or - and this is how I love it most - myrrh. I discovered this combination in Macadam by Il Profumo and fell head over heels in love. Of course, we also have patchouli and florals, but this wonderful bond that myrrh forms with vanilla here is a dream.

In Santa Maria Novella, I read that the fragrance notes consist solely of vanilla. However, the way this scent presents itself to me cannot be just vanilla that captivates me here. The scent is initially woodsy but becomes a little sweeter over time. I cannot identify any floral notes here. Just this wood tone, which I cannot specify further, vanilla, and something that reminds me of myrrh. When the scent has been on the skin for about 2-3 hours, it reminds me very much of Macadam, even though Vaniglia is much less sweet.

All gentlemen, but also ladies, who are always on the lookout for an unsweet vanilla scent, here it is. I have rarely sniffed a less sweet vanilla, and it is also such a beautiful one! After 3-4 hours, the base reveals itself, in which I recognize my beloved Muschio from the same brand. In the base, I believe musk clearly takes the lead.

The top note is unfortunately a bit of an acquired taste. This might be the only flaw that this wonderful scent has. My husband says he perceives a piercing note. I can confirm this, but this slight "pinch" does not bother me at all. It makes the scent special for me.

In the end, it probably won't be enough for a purchase, also because of Mr. Polly. But this Santa Maria Novella was able to sweeten not just my morning today, but my entire day. And in a completely unsweet way.

Many thanks to Susan, who always pulls treasures from her magic box that make me happy.
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42 Comments
VerityCharVerityChar 1 year ago
That sounds amazing. I'm totally enchanted by the brand and I'm on a testing spree until I've collected them all like Pokémon!
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UngenauUngenau 2 years ago
Hooked!
And now I'm daring to make a blind purchase :))
Thank you, great review!
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TtfortwoTtfortwo 5 years ago
I didn't want to try vanilla for a long time because I thought it meant being overly sweet like coconut or buttery cookies, which I still can't handle. Luckily, I know better now, and I feel the same as you: when vanilla is paired with something dark, earthy, rough, smoky, or anything like that, it can be really enjoyable. Great comment that definitely makes me want to try this scent!
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FvSpeeFvSpee 5 years ago
Whether it's patchouli or myrrh, the main thing is vanilla! I mainly like vanilla in the kitchen and at the ice cream parlor, but I've been eyeing Dark Vanilla from Urban Scents for a while now.
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ZoraZora 5 years ago
I really like vanilla too, and the brand always makes me more curious :). I’d gladly set down a trophy full of vanilla.
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LeloupLeloup 5 years ago
1
oh wow!!! the next SMN on the ML.... thanks to your wonderful description!
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RunaRuna 5 years ago
1
“Polly” is shaking up the colognes! :)) ... I also find the natural sweetness of vanilla quite pleasant!
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SiebenkäsSiebenkäs 5 years ago
Very interesting report about vanilla in general and this very tempting scent! I'm also a vanilla fan (preferably in the Guerlinade version) and can totally imagine the not-so-sweet scent from Santa Maria Novella... Bourbon vanilla trophy for you!
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Brelles530Brelles530 5 years ago
I love vanilla in fragrances.
That one should be well balanced.
Great comment on it!!
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TablaTabla 5 years ago
This brand has been on my list for a long time.
I'm all in for unsweetened vanilla!
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Can777Can777 5 years ago
A lovely scent. I found it to be quite dry and not sweet. Mrs. Can liked it too, but it was a bit too subtle for her and not long-lasting enough!
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Medianus76Medianus76 5 years ago
Vanilla that's not too sweet and yet beautifully crafted. That sounds like a successful composition! A test would definitely be interesting...
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ParfümleinParfümlein 5 years ago
Interesting comment! It really just says "vanilla"! You've given me a better sense of the scent!
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PonticusPonticus 5 years ago
I really like vanilla too, whether it's oriental, gourmand, unsweetened, whatever. Maybe there will be a chance to test it out sometime.
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GandixGandix 5 years ago
Sounds definitely worth a try.
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Melisse2Melisse2 5 years ago
Non-sweet vanilla and myrrh association, I can imagine that being nice too.
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AndrulaAndrula 5 years ago
.. good to know! Charming comment that makes me cautious - although I've liked Santa Maria Novella so far .. I’m not a fan of sharp scents though .. :)
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16paws16paws 5 years ago
1
I really like vanilla too, in many variations. Adding it to my wishlist!
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MörderbieneMörderbiene 5 years ago
Less sweet than Macadam and yet not a candidate for purchase?
But such magic was created!
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BlausternBlaustern 5 years ago
1
That sounds great again! I’d love to try it out since vanilla is also one of my favorite scent notes. However, it shouldn’t smell like cheesecake or vanilla pudding, at least not in a perfume. :-)
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FloydFloyd 5 years ago
I really like vanilla, especially chilled in the summer ;-) ... and I like your comments too ;-)
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RenataRenata 5 years ago
Once again, a very interesting comment............
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BastianBastian 5 years ago
2
Thank you for your insightful comment.
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ChizzaChizza 5 years ago
1
Mr. Polly is putting his foot down, not everything can be perfect all the time :D
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Fresh21Fresh21 5 years ago
In the end, it probably won't be enough for me to buy it either ;) but that doesn't affect your great info comment at all...
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PinkdawnPinkdawn 5 years ago
Unsweetened vanilla, that should mean of course...
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PinkdawnPinkdawn 5 years ago
Our vanilla can be interesting. And with such a high rating from you, I’d love to try the scent.
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Camey5000Camey5000 5 years ago
Another great breakdown. Very enriching. :-))
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NuiWhakakoreNuiWhakakore 5 years ago
Unsweetened vanilla sounds very promising; usually, vanilla puts me off - but here I could actually see myself trying it out! It will definitely need to be tested!
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CravacheCravache 5 years ago
A slight sting? Tschüpperli style :)))
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SusanSusan 5 years ago
3
.....and sometimes really misses the mark *laughs* :-D.....just look at Marienbad ;-)))
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KnopfnaseKnopfnase 5 years ago
A little sting won't stop me from wanting to try this SMN because of your comment! SMN forever trophy!
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reni379reni379 5 years ago
I just saw that it was rated as "earthy." Do you feel the same way?
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ViolettViolett 5 years ago
Vanilla with myrrh caught my attention while reading, I'll remember that. But I don't think I could really get into this scent; I'm just not "delicate-nosed" enough for it. ;-)
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reni379reni379 5 years ago
I keep noticing that it's high time to get to know this brand.
Great comment!
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Lenka85Lenka85 5 years ago
1
Sounds great and is going on my wishlist! Thanks for the lovely comment!
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MadameLegrasMadameLegras 5 years ago
1
That sounds really nice. If it’s not too sweet, I’m in...
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FaveaFavea 5 years ago
Sounds great! A candidate for my wishlist.
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TaurusTaurus 5 years ago
Unsweetened vanilla? Count me in :-)
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SchatzSucherSchatzSucher 5 years ago
With vanilla, it really depends on the accompanying notes and how it presents itself. I’m not a fan of vanilla that’s too food-like or reminiscent of baking flavors. I'm always amazed by the range at SMN. Great description once again!
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AugustoAugusto 5 years ago
I'm not really into vanilla, but that sounds interesting.
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GschpusiGschpusi 5 years ago
Oh yes, if it’s not too squeaky sweet, then I like it too.
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