Wheat
Barley
Milk
Apricot
Liquorice
Sandalwood
Dried fruits
Floral notes
Frankincense
Iris
Labdanum
Roasted notes
Rye
Spicy notes
Karenin
40 Reviews
Karenin
Helpful Review
4
Jeux de Peau
Composing a gourmand fragrance is, in my opinion, a true test of the perfumer's craftsmanship. I've sampled a number of food-inspired scents, most of which are sweet, typically in a loud kind of fashion. This discovery suggests that their primary (or the only?) goal is to make their wearers as well as the (lucky?/unlucky?) people who find themselves in their vicinity salivate since, arguably, this is the instinct the smell of food triggers. Nonetheless, I'm convinced a grand gourmand perfume should offer more than a simple replica of food aromas. I mean who wants to smell like a sugar factory and risk being chased around by swarms of winged insects? Maybe the choice of aromas, their subsequent blending and a drop of abstraction might do the trick. I've recently got my hands on several samples from the Serge Lutens line, including his take on the gourmand genre entitled “Jeux de Peau”. As I'm a massive fan of his brand, I was curious to smell how Lutens and his quasi-in-house perfumer Christopher Sheldrake tackled the food theme.
“Jeux de Peau” opens with an aroma of bread. Not just any bread - this loaf has just been taken out of the baker's oven and cut into steaming slices. In an instant, butter is spread onto them, with the effect of creating a dense, milky background, which “Jeux de Peau” manages to retain for the rest of its development. Other notes that pop out of the mixture are sandalwood and a barely detectable peach note, bringing to mind a tad bit of fruit jam on a buttered slice of bread. There's supposed to be a whole host of other notes, but my untrained nose just can't pick them up.
I'm glad to report the Lutens-Sheldrake collaboration led to the creation of a rather unconventional but perfectly delicious and expertly blended gourmand fragrance. What I enjoy most about “Jeux de Peau” is the fact that it makes me appreciate and savour the smell of such basic foodstuffs as bread, dairy products or jam, and thus reminds me of a frequently overlooked fact: that the best things in life are oftentimes the most commonplace ones. Yum!
“Jeux de Peau” opens with an aroma of bread. Not just any bread - this loaf has just been taken out of the baker's oven and cut into steaming slices. In an instant, butter is spread onto them, with the effect of creating a dense, milky background, which “Jeux de Peau” manages to retain for the rest of its development. Other notes that pop out of the mixture are sandalwood and a barely detectable peach note, bringing to mind a tad bit of fruit jam on a buttered slice of bread. There's supposed to be a whole host of other notes, but my untrained nose just can't pick them up.
I'm glad to report the Lutens-Sheldrake collaboration led to the creation of a rather unconventional but perfectly delicious and expertly blended gourmand fragrance. What I enjoy most about “Jeux de Peau” is the fact that it makes me appreciate and savour the smell of such basic foodstuffs as bread, dairy products or jam, and thus reminds me of a frequently overlooked fact: that the best things in life are oftentimes the most commonplace ones. Yum!
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