La Fille de Berlin Serge Lutens 2012 Eau de Parfum

La Fille de Berlin opens with a jammy red rose with just the faintest hints of an underlying black pepper and high quality soap tandem in support. As the fragrance enters the early heart phase the starring rose continues to grow in intensity as the mild soapy undertone remains. During the late dry-down the rose finally begins to fade as a sheen of fine powdery violet joins as co-star quite late. Projection is outstanding early in particular and longevity is on the high side of average at 8-10 hours on skin.

While many call La Fille de Berlin a "peppery rose," I view this composition more a linear rose soliflore through the mid phase with a powdery violet driven finish. The rose is full, "feminine" and voluptuous while the supporting soapy undertone does not get in the way of the rose like in so many other rose compositions (here's looking at *you* Une Rose Vermeille and Briar Rose), instead providing further depth. As the rose fades late, powdery violet from the base adds a slight twist to the otherwise minimalist linear composition. The bottom line is La Fille de Berlin is an absolutely captivating (near) rose soliflore that ranks right with the best of a crowded field. It may not break any new ground, but it smells absolutely incredible and that is more important. As this rose presentation leans to the "feminine" side of the spectrum it might be better suited to a lady, but quite frankly it smells so good I think I will be buying a bottle for myself (and wearing it). The $120 per 50ml bottle La Fille de Berlin earns a well-deserved "excellent" 4 stars out of 5 and is highly recommended if you love rose-focused compositions as I do.