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Top Review
The Trend is Confirmed
The 70s and 80s were characterized by rich, mossy, heavy, room-filling, testosterone-laden distinctive fragrances like “Azzaro pour homme,” “Antaeus,” “Patou pour homme,” “Quorum,” to name just a few. A bit later, “Boss No. 1” and “Zino” were added. Unisex fragrances weren't really a thing yet. These were still the signature scents of Darth Vader, Gordon Gecko, and the Terminator. What we now refer to as classics and still enjoy wearing.
In the mid to late 80s, the olfactory landscape changed radically. From heavy and mossy, it became aquatic and fresh. The shift couldn't be more drastic. Starting with “Green Irish Tweed” and three years later with “Cool Water” and “New West,” the wave of refreshment swept over us. In the 90s, “L’eau d’Issey pour homme,” Calvin Klein's unisex masterpiece “CK One,” Kenzo's "Pour homme," and Giorgio Armani's disco hit “Acqua di Gio” were added. Everything we now consider modern classics and still enjoy wearing.
In the mid to late 90s and the beginning of the new millennium, something changed again. It became sweet. “Le male.” Jean Paul Gaultier. In the 2000s, “One Million” and “Spicebomb” were introduced. The high-quality offshoots of this style are called “Dior Homme.” Someone also suddenly discovered a strange resin from the agarwood tree, and leather was back in vogue despite the vegan trend.
As you can see, many things in life are constantly changing. It's a law of nature, and that's a good thing.
In 2017, one can state without beating around the bush that the era of sweet fragrances is slowly but surely coming to an end. Harald will be pleased, even if he is still skeptical. You can tell that the quality in the mainstream sector has increased this year. While I had trouble naming three good fragrances from this area in recent years, this year I can spontaneously think of Gucci's “Guilty Absolute,” Dior's “Eau Sauvage Parfum,” “Sauvage Very Cool Spray,” Aramis's “Modern Leather,” Bottega Veneta's “Pour homme Parfum,” and my special favorite Cerruti's “1881 Signature.” This is how mainstream should be.
The trend away from sweet stuff began a few years ago with “Aventus” and “Bleu de Chanel.” The scents that were so criticized as shower gel fragrances.
And this trend is being confirmed. But it is becoming harsher, leatherier, and yes, more masculine.
The start of the new Noir is initially woody. At the same time, it is underscored by this harsh freshness that will accompany the fragrance the whole time. An autumn walk in the early morning best describes this opening. After a short while, the woods disappear. Along with the harsh freshness, I perceive a pencil note. Similar to that from Clive Christian's “L for men”; just not as present and pronounced. It becomes a bit earthier, which is probably due to the patchouli. I can't really pick out a single component, which is usually a good sign of quality and perfect balance.
The longevity is very good. More than eight hours on me. The sillage is pronounced to pleasant. There is no reason to complain about either. The bottle is typically Noir. Only this time in gray. Nice. However, what bothers me is the price. €102.00 for 50 ml is quite steep. Is that still mainstream?
A few years ago, I was very skeptical about Tom Ford's perfume department. Now I have to correct myself. Even though it has often become very expensive and now seems overwhelming, I haven't smelled anything truly bad yet.
What remains? In my opinion, this fragrance is exceptional. I haven't smelled anything like it in my perfume cosmos. I can only agree with Highflyer: This scent seems to be ahead of its time.
A truly very good harsh yet simultaneously fresh, distinctive, and masculine fragrance that fits perfectly into the upcoming season. Fougère 2.0.
Best regards
Your Profumorist
P.S.: The first four paragraphs are from my comment on “Bleu de Chanel EdT.”
In the mid to late 80s, the olfactory landscape changed radically. From heavy and mossy, it became aquatic and fresh. The shift couldn't be more drastic. Starting with “Green Irish Tweed” and three years later with “Cool Water” and “New West,” the wave of refreshment swept over us. In the 90s, “L’eau d’Issey pour homme,” Calvin Klein's unisex masterpiece “CK One,” Kenzo's "Pour homme," and Giorgio Armani's disco hit “Acqua di Gio” were added. Everything we now consider modern classics and still enjoy wearing.
In the mid to late 90s and the beginning of the new millennium, something changed again. It became sweet. “Le male.” Jean Paul Gaultier. In the 2000s, “One Million” and “Spicebomb” were introduced. The high-quality offshoots of this style are called “Dior Homme.” Someone also suddenly discovered a strange resin from the agarwood tree, and leather was back in vogue despite the vegan trend.
As you can see, many things in life are constantly changing. It's a law of nature, and that's a good thing.
In 2017, one can state without beating around the bush that the era of sweet fragrances is slowly but surely coming to an end. Harald will be pleased, even if he is still skeptical. You can tell that the quality in the mainstream sector has increased this year. While I had trouble naming three good fragrances from this area in recent years, this year I can spontaneously think of Gucci's “Guilty Absolute,” Dior's “Eau Sauvage Parfum,” “Sauvage Very Cool Spray,” Aramis's “Modern Leather,” Bottega Veneta's “Pour homme Parfum,” and my special favorite Cerruti's “1881 Signature.” This is how mainstream should be.
The trend away from sweet stuff began a few years ago with “Aventus” and “Bleu de Chanel.” The scents that were so criticized as shower gel fragrances.
And this trend is being confirmed. But it is becoming harsher, leatherier, and yes, more masculine.
The start of the new Noir is initially woody. At the same time, it is underscored by this harsh freshness that will accompany the fragrance the whole time. An autumn walk in the early morning best describes this opening. After a short while, the woods disappear. Along with the harsh freshness, I perceive a pencil note. Similar to that from Clive Christian's “L for men”; just not as present and pronounced. It becomes a bit earthier, which is probably due to the patchouli. I can't really pick out a single component, which is usually a good sign of quality and perfect balance.
The longevity is very good. More than eight hours on me. The sillage is pronounced to pleasant. There is no reason to complain about either. The bottle is typically Noir. Only this time in gray. Nice. However, what bothers me is the price. €102.00 for 50 ml is quite steep. Is that still mainstream?
A few years ago, I was very skeptical about Tom Ford's perfume department. Now I have to correct myself. Even though it has often become very expensive and now seems overwhelming, I haven't smelled anything truly bad yet.
What remains? In my opinion, this fragrance is exceptional. I haven't smelled anything like it in my perfume cosmos. I can only agree with Highflyer: This scent seems to be ahead of its time.
A truly very good harsh yet simultaneously fresh, distinctive, and masculine fragrance that fits perfectly into the upcoming season. Fougère 2.0.
Best regards
Your Profumorist
P.S.: The first four paragraphs are from my comment on “Bleu de Chanel EdT.”
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8 Comments
And about the price:
Try using the offer button at the top left under the picture.. TFAN is already cheaper now!