09/16/2021
Intersport
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Intersport
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Onda at last
Onda came to me years ago at Vétiver Recherche, I could only experience the fragrance many years later in a perfumery in Bologna, the test strip, packed in cellophane sachet, I held in front of my nose for more years. All concentrations of Onda were sold out in the meantime, Vero Kern's death also brought uncertainty about what would happen to her work.
Onda is the most appropriate name for this perfume, a wave, overwhelming, respect-demanding, also refreshing, and just "deeply moving" as she said herself. The Eau de Parfum presents with a force a fruity Maracuiá note that together with the 'rest', offers an exceptional constellation, difficult to describe or compare. I also admire Onda precisely because it stages fruitiness in a mercilessly impressive way - a direction that always, especially if it is not dried fruit, scares me away and makes me seek the distance. Perhaps it is fruitiness plus vétiver or vétiver plus fruit that makes the difference. Maître Parfumeur et Gantier's terrific Route Du Vétiver has already suggested an eccentric root-fruit pairing with its currant-velvet-shrub note, Ellen Covey's Bat / Night Flyer combines fruit plus vétiver plus much more convincingly. Onda Eau de Parfum, timed between the two, mixes neatly in these fruit/vétiver experiments, which comes with a dry waxiness. I haven't smelled the extrait de parfum or the voile d'extrait yet, unfortunately. In drydown, the Eau de Parfum stains everything with a spice-honey distillation, complete with ginger and mace, and brings back fondest memories of old Kouros. An interpretation of the historic Animalis base + honey, not in Greek but shifted to a tropical context? A bit dirty - perhaps the original tagline "onda - For those who love the good things in life." exactly to that. If these animalic components in the extract, as explained in detail in Profumo's execution to the different concentrations, are correspondingly more intense: a fantasy.
Onda also balances formidably between a lived-in, or enlivened facet that makes the fragrance seem physically materialistic filtered - some facets of Onda could have appeared decades ago where. Yet Onda never loses itself in the purely media-archaeological, the passion fruit modulation always brings it most current, even timeless terrains. Released between 2017-2010, it seems as if these three Kern waves anticipate many a trend of ubiquitous neo-retros. Vero Kern as 'role model', Vero Kern who started perfume design only at 54, and attended seminars at the legendary 'Cinquième Sens' institute of Monique Schlienger. I don't know the curriculum or the subjects, but perhaps these encounters with Guy Robert, among others, were formative for the connections from Extrait de parfum and the Voile d'extrait to Guerlain's Djedi. Perhaps this new retro context, has prompted Campomarzio70 to re-release the uniquely fruity eau de parfum surprisingly. My memories and residual traces from the blotter are identical to this re-release. With thanks to Costello for's re-experience.
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