Nio Xerjoff 2009

One day, as I always do, I started as naively as possible, when a horde of exquisite new releases made their way to Parfumo. Leading the charge were roaring comments, hymns, and wonder songs. And in this multitude of fragrances, it is hard to find a starting point. Since even the samples at ALzD are incredibly expensive, I initially dared to try just one single fragrance, naturally opting against all the gourmands; spring was on bare feet and it should be fresh and cheerful.

I only remember that the expectation was high, the friends were numerous, and it was early morning, the jasmine tea was brewing, and the trees began to stir.

Nio by XerJoff starts very juicy with bergamot and neroli, both clearly recognizable, they present themselves as extremely potent, but along with the spice, a harmonious whole pours into my nose. Almost opulent, the top note is magnificent. The spicy accents of bitter orange are supported, which prevents the citrus aspects of the ingredients from becoming too loud and garish. Above all, it smells delicious; I would say, drinkable, nothing more to say.

In the transition to the heart note, the fragrance becomes drier, it loosens up and loses its opulence. At times, I think I smell something floral, just very lightly and shyly. In contrast, the pepper becomes stronger, increasingly pushing itself into the air, and from now on, the fragrance loses more and more strength and fullness. It becomes downright sober, dry, and colorless. The cardamom tries to catch the pepper a bit and is also responsible for the transition from the top note to more and more pepper. At some point, only pepper can be smelled, pink pepper, of course. However, we are also moving towards the base, as the twitching and scratching of the pepper note begins to slowly darken.

Where it began sprightly green, it is now becoming darker, earthy, how else could it be. Although you can't smell anything concrete from the listed base notes yet, they announce themselves with a buzzing and creaking. There is also a slight sweetness in it that I can't quite place; it is not really a concrete aspect of the fragrance, more of a foundation to prevent Nio from appearing too meager.
Above all, it is now woody, earthy, and remains green, but not like the dark green of complex patchouli scents, nor the dark green as it can be smelled in Guerlain's Vetiver, and not the mossy, blue-tinted dark green of Grey Flannel. Alone on a woody base, it is a dry but velvety green, perhaps a pastel dark green. Although a balsamic warmth emanates from the base; less a warmth of embers and amber scents, but a warmth of steam. However, the lifeless woody character remains.
Above all, the pepper can still be smelled, even this late the fragrance is dry and crystalline. It seems to me that the base cannot settle down yet, although everything urges it to do so, the spice of the pink pepper rustles through the underbrush. On one hand, one might find this innovative; on the other hand, it really gets on my nerves.
Moreover, it is simply bland; I mean, there could have easily been one or two more notes.
As Nio fades, it only gets lost deeper in the underbrush, the steps become slower, the legs shorter, and eventually, it disappears into the earth.
Later, at that very spot, some juicy vetiver blades climb up the cedar tree.

Overall, Nio is unfortunately unremarkable. This fragrance simply leaves nothing behind, and more could have been made of it. Although it is well put together; you can clearly feel the craftsmanship, and the fragrance materials are noticeably natural and high quality. I don't want to lament about luxury brands, but as high-quality as these fragrances may be, an ELdO fragrance, a Harris, or Tauer have always been a greater pleasure for me.

I want to say pepper once more at this point.
Pepper.