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Elysium
Helpful Review
2
Rosy With A Smoky Morsel
I bought it blindly, along with the other two of the Ocean collection. The tester was not available, so I fully trusted the name Grapefruit & Incense. And I must admit that this perfume blew me away. Not what I expected from something called that way, but the surprise turned out to be pleasant. The scent is everything but citrus or harsh. A smoky and sweet rose is hidden inside this gem.
Sure, there is grapefruit enriched with an ounce of incense, but overall it seems much more floral and rosy. Grapefruit is present here differently than "Zara Emotions N°01 - Vetiver Pamplemousse | Zara", another Jo Malone creation. I feel like a more ripe, sweet, sophisticated, less juicy and bitter citrus fruit. Frankincense isn’t a major player here; it sits in the background, warming the scent slightly, so don’t let the name fool you. Instead, a beautiful dewy rose oozes among the initial notes, making the bitter yellow citrus fruit a bit sweet and damp. If the grapefruit zest has a masculine slant, the rose petals compensate with a gentle dose of feminine twist.
As the initial acid explosion fades, the scent takes a sweeter and more flowery direction. The rose now appears sugary, almost like a rosolio, a type of Italian liqueur made from a base of alcohol, sugar, and water in the same proportion, which is flavoured by adding an essence of various types, rose petals in this case. It is a soothing rose, not dark or opulent like the one we find in the perfumes of the Middle East. Only now do the smoky notes of incense gain fullness, giving the essence pleasant fresher and gummier nuances that balance the otherwise too sugary appearance of the flowers.
As the rose grows, it becomes less soapy than expected, and the perfume becomes incensed. The incense appears dusty and fumy and has nothing to do with the aromatic and balsamic one that we perceive in a church with a bit of waxy nuance. The middle stage is floral with a smoky vibe, still airy and pleasant. The heart stage lasts longer than expected.
It takes time for the base to play the game, and the white woods listed result in creamy sandalwood. I will not exclude a clean musk, which blends nicely with the smoky rose. Like any other Jo Malone creation, the fragrance is barely linear, meaning it turns around the declared notes and adds just a few variations resulting from their blend. The rosy nuances remain until the last whisper.
In general, longevity is above average. I can feel it for several hours on the skin, while the floral and citrus accord is more persistent on the clothes—it will last a couple of days. The sparkling and fresh aspects make it ideal for daily use and great for office and leisure. Spring and summer are the best seasons, in my opinion. Since this is not a new release, I suggest you check it out before it gets discontinued.
I base the review on a 90ml bottle I have owned since July 2022.
-Elysium
Elysium
