The female version of Vibrant Leather EDP has always intrigued me, but since I could never find it in the shops I visited, I blindly ordered it online, trusting the masterpiece created by Jerome Epinette for the male version which here kept the DNA. However, to give it a more feminine touch, he replaced bamboo with red currant and patchouli, which undoubtedly give the fragrance the right amount of a sweet note, without being much, and fruity. I felt a fruity character, like apricot.
Right off the bat, the initial notes of Vibrant Leather for Her reminded me of another famous perfume built around ubiquitous patchouli. I’m talking about Chanel Coco Mademoiselle. The Regal impression of the original Vibrant Leather for him doesn’t translate into a female Queenly version. Fragrances like Coco Mademoiselle or Miss Dior come to mind with the mix of fruit and patchouli, I would call this a top-notch fruitchouli. Excellent company, although very familiar. Patchouli is a dominant note in both, from the very first spritz, but takes on two different shades: in Coco Mademoiselle, it is slightly more earthy and medicinal. In Vibrant Leather for Her, it is more flowery and fruity. Indeed, it was just a first impression. And as the perfume develops, its nuances take a different direction from Coco Mademoiselle. From a sample, this is a lovely fragrance. Deep, mighty, sharp, distinct, sweet, peppery, and floral are the nouns that come to mind when taking in this fragrance.
Zara Vibrant Leather for her is opulent and sensual. The fruity-floral qualities are captivating; the accord is delightful. The fragrance bursts from the bottle with a triumphant range of succulent aromas, which blend harmoniously with each other. First, a boozy, piercing sweetness that is very nice, followed by a distinct accord of crisp pear, fragrant pepper and the sparkle of citrus fruit. The upper notes include the dirty and earthy patchouli and the unripe blackcurrant. Together they open the fragrance with a unique tart zesty accord, lightly balmy by the minty patchouli. The slightly sweet and slightly tart qualities of the pear blend perfectly with the blackcurrant, brighter but also a little more acidic. My skin amplifies flowers and tarts and fruits and animals.
The middle notes soften the crisp opening with a bouquet of floral, balmy, and gourmand accords that I really think defines the overall essence and dry-down of this fragrance. I get the green bamboo, with a bite of aqueous nuances, plenty of blossoms, and leathery accord. Here, flowers form the core of the scent and spread forth through the whole creation, infusing it with softness, richness, sweetness and splendour. Dirtier, sexier, and still drier at this point than the masculine peer, the sweet but spicy and fairly coriaceous aspect offers a unique counterpoint to velvety floral notes while infusing an undercurrent and oriental depth to the composition.
The rich tenacious base includes a lot of papyrus leaves, a bite of vanilla pod, spoonful patchouli, and a sweet accord akin to amber. It is here in the dry that the scent shines. The delightfully sweet vanilla intertwines with the dry, papery, and resinous papyrus. I also note the version of the papyrus with freshly cut grass—lots of fresh grass here. And leather, smoky and rough leather, still suitable for a woman. It is tar and soft birch. Drying can be difficult for some, as the resinous and coriaceous qualities of the leather become more prominent along with coumarin and an unusual powdery muskiness. Here the composition takes on a sharp, perhaps a little sour, quality after the soft flowers have had enough time to sparkle, which may be off-putting to some. It makes for a sweetly woody finish.
For me, there is nothing in this fragrance that brings to mind Vibrant Leather for him: I own both the original and all the flankers, and no one looks like it. I believe this fragrance is in a genre of its own. Although marketed for women, I am sure some men would find this very appealing. The aroma seems suitable for wearing all year round but would be evocative with the warmth and humidity of spring, summer, and early fall. Easily wearable both day and evening, the formulation has a unique versatility among contemporary perfumes. While it is a bit of a stretch to call the original Vibrant Leather unisex, this “for her” version feels gender-neutral despite its markings and is the more complex scent between the two. On the days I wear this, I enjoy it quite a bit. If you temper your expectations, I think you might also find Vibrant Leather for Her to be worth your while. Quite a few sprays last me almost the day with good sillage, intimate yet suitable. I get compliments from strangers. It smells like walking in a damp, cold, wet grass field with some blossoms, fruit trees and green pears - all unripe and sour. It makes me want to smell it again and again.
This review bases upon a 100ml (3.4 Fl. oz) I own since Oct 2020.
-Elysium
PedroCabral
