Rose Ardoise Atelier Materi 2022

This is a very slick, modern rose. Not the most original, since it clearly lives in the same neighborhood as the famous Rose 31 Eau de Parfum, with echoes of Smyrna and Rose Poivrée. The scent profile itself is unique, but the concept has definitely been explored before.

What sets this one apart is that the spices are not warm here. This is a cool, almost metallic rose. The opening blast of spices feels refreshing rather than warm and bodily, like Rose 31. I think the sage and pepper combo is doing the heavy lifting here. The spiciness is sharp, airy, and very pronounced. It wakes you up instead of wrapping you in a cozy scarf.

The rose is present, but do not expect anything fresh or dewy. This is not a sugary rose either. It smells natural and realistic, like rose petals that are starting to wilt. Not dry, just past their prime. The flowers have been sitting on the table all day and are slowly giving up. There is also a faint leathery note floating around.

After about two hours on skin, the scent warms up. Nutmeg brings in a gentle warmth, and vetiver starts to show up, adding a woody, earthy edge. At this point, the rose fades into the background, and the fragrance becomes mostly spicy and woody. The leather disappears completely.

The sillage is restrained but not intimate. You can clearly smell it on yourself, but it is not going to announce your arrival three rooms away. Longevity, however, is excellent. This thing hangs on for dear life.

Overall, this is a very different, androgynous take on rose, and I enjoyed it. It might not be for everyone, and if you already own several spicy rose fragrances, this could feel a bit redundant. But if this is your kind of rose, cool, dry, and peppery, it is worth experiencing.

...actually write the first review. At least a few more words than in the statement! The fragrance deserves it :-)

A wonderful rose scent, on one hand rosy fresh, but on the other hand also pleasantly smoky and spicy. Not heavy, truly wearable at any time! And the sage is one of the most beautiful ever. Sillage and longevity are good and last easily 5-6 hours on me, which I really like.

About the bottle: It is truly beautiful. Color, label, the design of the cap with a bit of gold in the marble look! 10 points +, if the cap would stay on better. It doesn’t click in properly (at least with my bottle) and thus it’s very risky and I pray it doesn’t fall off at some point! At THAT price, it could have been solved magnetically, for example!

Despite the enormous price, I am happy that it could join my collection. I have no regrets and I believe this is one of the few fragrances that I actually associate with myself, that are not subject to any trends and that I can still imagine wearing in 20 years...

Rose Ardoise is the embodiment of an urban, modern rose that blooms on cool concrete - a fascinating composition that skillfully plays with contrasts. The fragrance unites feminine and masculine elements, transparency and depth, minerality and sensuality. The opening surprises with fresh, spicy accents before the heart of the rose unfolds and ultimately merges with a generous dose of Ambroxan. This harmonious fusion emphasizes the androgynous and contemporary character of the perfume. Rose Ardoise radiates elegance, accompanied by a carefree cheerfulness - a scent that captivates with its uniqueness and embodies modern sophistication.

A nice Souk partner slipped a small 2ml fragrance sample into the envelope and has now inspired me to write my first review.

Rose Ardoise is probably the most beautiful and unusual rose I have had the pleasure of smelling in a long time. From the very first spray, the elegant rose-leather DNA is framed by spicy and masculine textures. Even though there is nothing about this in the fragrance pyramid, I definitely perceive an earthy character. As if one were to pull a rose with roots out of the ground and dedicate an olfactory altar to it in all its glory, thorns and remnants of earth included. Somewhat subversive, quite sexy, but also very romantic.

Although the sage and pepper notes are unusual, the overall result feels anything but cumbersome. The blending is so pleasantly sensual that I can imagine this fragrance as an everyday companion for a confident personality.

The fragrances from the house of Atelier Materi definitely remain in my collection; with the exception of one, they are all rated 4 or 5 stars in the fragrance game. Naturally, this includes Rose Ardoise.
For comparing heart notes, I use a rose absolute and a rose distillate from the Damask rose. 100 percent natural ingredients for nose training. The rose is not so floral, but rather cool, elegant, even somewhat bitter, and more of an angular beauty with interesting friction surfaces. And this is exactly what the perfumer of Rose Ardoise utilizes. There are bold and strong companions right away; they are masculine, foreign, and mysterious. I think of amber and also musk, and in the end, there are ambroxan, leather, and vetiver. The rose remains light and is the distinctly different note. They really play off each other. It is an androgynous scent, or one that impressively balances the masculine and feminine, as stated in the official fragrance description. And the bold companion? Of course, pepper and nutmeg. That’s just how it is with the rose: it remains strong in the center and can (bear) these cheeky and somewhat frivolous companions. A true queen.
In any case, it’s great that this scent is neither sweet nor fruity, but rather a true experience.
One downside: after a longer wear, it melts into a classic with rose and loses this elegant play, at least on my skin.