In preparation for this fragrance, I watched the 40-minute video by "The Perfume Guy," in which he interviews Sergio Momo (founder of Xerjoff) about "Casamorati - Casafutura | XerJoff." So you don't have to sit through this somewhat boring video, here’s a little summary :)
The fragrance is a Casamorati scent (not Xerjoff), and the name is supposed to be a play on words between the perfume house and the art movement in Italy in the early 20th century. According to Sergio Momo, the fragrance follows a vintage approach with a classic opening of bergamot and lavender, along with some rosemary. However, the most interesting aspect of the scent is the skeleton flower, which has transparent leaves and thus got its name. Overall, the fragrance is meant to capture and reflect the atmosphere of the early 20th century.
An interesting question arose regarding why Sergio Momo released the fragrance under Casamorati and not under the Xerjoff brand. According to the founder, this is because Casamorati traditionally brought more Mediterranean scents to the market, and he wanted to bring the Casamorati fragrance label back a bit to its original roots, as the scent fits very well with the (original) beginnings of the brand (after Casamorati had taken a rather different direction with "Casamorati - 1888 | XerJoff" and other fragrances). Kind of "Back to the Future," which Mr. Momo didn’t mention, but I can't help but make this reference :)
That's it. The video doesn't offer much more in its 40 minutes. The rest revolves around bottle sizes, the opening of new stores in Europe, and the launch of Xerjoff scented candles (with presumably new scents), as well as new Xerjoff fragrances (Sketchbook, Torino21). An interesting aspect was the mention and explanation of the “Blends Collection.” This seems to be about connecting fragrances with other art forms, such as music or visual art. If I understood correctly, a perfume is created alongside another art object, be it a painting, architecture, or a piece of music, like the very current "Tony Iommi Monkey Special | XerJoff."
Now, onto the fragrance.
Indeed, the scent starts with lavender and a hefty dose of rosemary, as described by Sergio Momo himself. I can't detect the skeleton flower, as I don't even know what it smells like. But the fragrance definitely becomes floral after the opening, and the rose can be very well detected.
Up to this point, I should actually like the fragrance very much, as I enjoy Chypre and Fougère and am not averse to rose as a scent. However, I feel a bit conflicted. The rose is a bit too dominant for me, and a true Chypre vibe doesn't seem to set in. On the other hand, the rose unfolds beautifully, and together with the rosemary and - could it be the skeleton flower? - it creates a very harmonious, almost ethereal picture. Here, the fragrance reminds me more of a wellness oasis / spa than of any art movement. However, if one wanted to be harsh, one could also claim that the fragrance has something of mosquito spray or even Vicks Vaporub, as I could read in some comments. Nevertheless - I like the fragrance better than expected; it is aromatic, spicy, and floral. Rosemary and rose harmonize excellently here, and it reminds me a bit of a rose-infused steam bath. There are indeed similarities to "Savoy Steam (Eau de Parfum) | Penhaligon's," not just on paper, as a little research on the internet shows. And since this fragrance is rated significantly better on Parfumo, one wonders whether there might not be an disproportionately high (and then disappointed) expectation of Xerjoff influencing some reviews of Casafutura.
In the drydown, the fragrance becomes woodier and creamier. However, I don't think this is the typical Xerjoff base (as my predecessor suggested), but rather the fragrance becomes much calmer and very close to the skin. Additionally, it acquires a slightly soapy note, which fits well with the spa theme. Unfortunately, the fragrance cannot maintain the initially quite promising start of the top and heart notes in the drydown and becomes somewhat boring and generic.
The longevity is, as expected from Xerjoff / Casamorati, quite good, though not as overwhelming as other fragrances from the house; the scent lasts about 7-8 hours on the skin. However, the sillage is rather subdued, and in the drydown, I personally have trouble perceiving the fragrance properly. As mentioned, the fragrance, especially in the heart note, has something ethereal, which makes it somewhat difficult to grasp.
The bottle is a typical Casamorati bottle, although this one stands out more due to the golden alloy than others, which is certainly a matter of taste. The fragrance is marketed for both women and men, but to me, it has more masculine tendencies, despite the floral middle part.
Overall, I don’t find the fragrance so bad, and it ranks solidly in the middle. One must indeed note that the last Xerjoff creations have all been rather disappointing. "Save Me | XerJoff," "CoExistence | XerJoff," and especially the one I dislike "Amabile | XerJoff" were not really convincing. But what can one expect when a brand like Xerjoff is already launching the 6th fragrance this year with "Casamorati - Casafutura | XerJoff" and "Tony Iommi Monkey Special | XerJoff" marks the 7th creation. However, Casafutura is under the Casamorati label, and the last fragrances here date back several years, namely "Casamorati - Corallo | XerJoff" and "Casamorati - Mefisto Gentiluomo | XerJoff" from 2018 (not counting the re-release of "Casamorati - Italica | XerJoff").
Accordingly, expectations were relatively high, as Casamorati has produced some very beautiful fragrances, such as "Casamorati - 1888 | XerJoff" or this "Casamorati - Mefisto Gentiluomo | XerJoff." Unfortunately, there are also some - I would call them very unconventional fragrances - like "Casamorati - Regio | XerJoff." Casafutura now ranks somewhere in the middle. I find it overall quite successful, but it unfortunately does not come close to the glorious fragrances of past days, but this fragrance is definitely worth a test! Nevertheless, Sergio Momo could still take a little more "Back to the Future" to perhaps create a real hit with the next Casamorati.
Updated on 11/27/2021