“Abandon all hope, ye who enter here” - this could have been the welcoming text on the Ensar Oud website in recent years. Top note-based releases without foundation, fruity mishmash, pseudo-Kinam or Kynam? Plus maximum opacity.
One could have dared to create a solid Oud fragrance again - if only for the sake of nostalgia.
Flashback …
Oud, the protagonist, the character actor, rugged, raw, and stoic, shapes the scene. He says more through expression than through words while grimly smoking his cigarette. Nothing from the plantation - wild-grown in the dense jungle of Malaysia. A dark soul, his blood black as tar. It carries his anger, his frustration, his pain - a relic of his journey. The eyes and soul of a tiger, roaming lonely in its territory.
Back to the present …
the hope for atavism, the true Oud scent. The other components are merely supporting actors meant to underscore and highlight the character of the Oud, carried by amber and musk.
And suddenly something leaps out of the jungle …
Tigerwood '91.
It follows
Tigerwood 1990 and the famous
Tigerwood Royale.
The fragrance - steps of an evolution
Tigerwood Pure Parfum based on
Tigerwood Pure Parfum was a primal force: a mineral, smoky, leathery, and at the same time ethereal Oud that knocks you off your feet. Complemented by black amber, pepper, and Peru balsam, it created a oud-like, animalic, spicy-old-leathery blend.
Tigerwood '91 is inhabited by the same spirit. However, the Oud is brighter and woodier. The camphor notes are subdued, the mineral character gentler. Accordingly, the other fragrance notes have also been adjusted. The rough animality is a thing of the past. The musk enters a mélange with Vietnamese Oud, called
Ha Tinh LTD, which was already present in the eponymous fragrance
Tigerwood Ha Tinh. The tincture serves as a carrier and is supported by gray amber - resulting in a creamy, slightly mineral base.
The Vietnamese Oud elevates the Malaysian Oud. The result is brown-roasted notes with subtle nutty and caramel nuances that provide more warmth and allow for an ideal fusion of the resinous notes with cocoa, coffee, and tobacco. Fortunately, apart from the Oud, nothing stands out particularly. The remaining notes work supportively in the background. Over time, the fragrance becomes a touch greener, yet remains true to its origin.
For me, "Tigerwood 1991 | Ensar Oud" is the most beautiful and simultaneously wearable Oud of the three. While the bite and peaks of the old versions are somewhat missing, the 91 version is significantly better balanced. The result is a top-notch Oud fragrance that truly deserves its name and represents a consistent evolution of its predecessors.
In fact, the bottle is also one of the best from the brand. The cap, made from tiger's eye - a gold-brown-yellow striped quartz gemstone - not only fits the name but also reflects the character of the fragrance with its color.