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Notes09/07/2019
FvSpee
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FvSpee
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Preliminary winner in restricted competition
Amber fragrances present me with three problems:
1. My wife hates amber scents 2. i have to sneeze from amber scents;
3. my favorite colleague hates amber scents and has to sneeze about it.
The fact that I have nevertheless decided to finally buy myself an amber fragrance shows how much I am fascinated by this fragrance. This resinous-alsamic, in such a special way fresh, often sweet, practically always spicy playing, that is a really special fragrance experience, which one gets offered nowhere else than in Amberland.
So I decided to hold a restricted contest to determine which Amber would be allowed to move into my scent closet. Not invited was my first Amberliebe, Ambre 114 by Histoire des Parfums. At that time I was totally of the socks of this fragrance and had dedicated 9.5 points and an enthusiastic comment to it, but already at that time I recognized that this baroque-exaggerated Monstre amber is practically not wearable for a person born after 1780
The contestants were two MPG fragrances, Ambre Précieux, which I had once liked very much in my favourite perfumery in Brussels, and his heavier sibling Ambre Doré, unknown to me until then; and two fragrances that had come to me as samples, Ambre Orient from the Armani-Privé series (unknown to me until then) and Bel Ambre by Jacques Fath (tested about a year ago and honored with 8.0 and a statement), as well as this one here, Ambre Fétiche; after Ambre 114 my second Amberliebe.
First, I let the two fragrances of the perfumer and glove maker compete against each other, the Précieux and the Doré. The Doré flew out pretty fast, (also) it was too overloaded and pompous for me and above all too stinky (such a striking oud vetiver mucky note that didn't suit me). The Précieux, which seemed finer and more chased to me than it had been in Brussels, stayed in the game and competed against this one the following day.
I actually thought that was the early final. Above all, however, I was irritated at first, because Ambre Précieux came across quite differently this time than the day before; starting rather inelegantly with a somewhat overly dissonant sound and only after about an hour finding its elegant, bright centre, and then fading away into a wonderfully spicy, firm, balsamic, enduring base (which I cannot describe properly, but which is unique). Ambre Fétiche, on the other hand, is very different. Among the amber scents, Ambre Fétiche stands out with its strong frankincense notes, with it one buys, so to speak, Two-in-One, it is in comparison to the "Encense Flamboyant" from Goutal even the (even) more beautiful frankincense scent, I think. It's no disadvantage to me because I like incense notes. In the first act, which lasts for the first one to two hours, this incense is perhaps even in the foreground, here Ambre Fétiche impresses as a light grey, deep powdery, fine-silvery sparkling, dust-dry, almost ash-like incense spicy scent, high tones in major, rather unusual (I can't think of any comparison), which then gradually glides over into a (no longer greatly changed) perfectly balanced 10-point basis. Here then gold instead of silver, minor instead of major, deep instead of high tones, but at least as beautiful. The really nice thing here is - I think even pre-reviewers have already noticed this - that we have the full, deep, rich, oriental-spicy, almost gourmand cuddly program including vanilla and patchouli, but that this never, never, never does not slide into plush or exaggerated sweetness. That always remains beautifully centered and grown up, to which surely also the rather serious iris contributes by nature. That convinced me even more, and so Ambre Fétiche stayed on the field.
It should be inserted here that amber scents are apparently somewhat unstable in my perception; the perception of Précieux on one day so and on the other so does not seem to be an isolated case. Maybe Amber has a general tendency to go astray, I noticed that especially with amber scents the reviews often diverge a lot, not so much in the rating as in the description: One finds a scent wonderfully warm, the other enormously cool, one cuddly, the other hard etc.
But I wanted to finish it at some point and get an amber on my shopping list without months of undecided endurance tests. The Ambre Orient by Armai Privé was blamelessly eliminated from the competition. I only had a very small sample, applied it in the evening and fell asleep shortly before my normal time (maybe it was mixed with a sleeping pill that worked through the skin). So I only got the first five minutes and the next morning the breath; well, then not. I don't like the Armani-Privé series very much anyway.
What remained was Jacques Fath's Bel Ambre, who I had to play again directly against Ambre Fétiche. This time I liked it much, much better than when I first tested it, and I was impressed by the strong contrast to Ambre Fétiche in a direct comparison. Of all the scents tested, Bel Ambre is the most linear and the most suitable for everyday use: he doesn't strike with overly striking amber notes (which are often perceived as somewhat controversial not only in my environment), nor with incense or other "notes on which spirits divide". It is a very valuable, differentiated, but also rather uniform, calm, smooth, round, open, somewhat darker, rather heavy-firm, but also discreet scent (probably because the projection is muffled and eccentric notes are missing). I notice a certain note (I call it "peculiarly fruity", I can't say better than that), which reminds me strongly of Opium Pour Homme from YSL (I really like it and will wear it again tonight to celebrate the day).
Result: I'm not yet running to the next perfumery, but put Ambre Fétiche on my wish list. The two MPGs are placed in the exchange and gift box, although this decision is only very close for the "Ambre Précieux". The remaining sample "Bel Ambre" comes to the samples for future use. Should I ever want to own two Amber, it would be the perfect contrast fragrance for Ambre Fétiche.
1. My wife hates amber scents 2. i have to sneeze from amber scents;
3. my favorite colleague hates amber scents and has to sneeze about it.
The fact that I have nevertheless decided to finally buy myself an amber fragrance shows how much I am fascinated by this fragrance. This resinous-alsamic, in such a special way fresh, often sweet, practically always spicy playing, that is a really special fragrance experience, which one gets offered nowhere else than in Amberland.
So I decided to hold a restricted contest to determine which Amber would be allowed to move into my scent closet. Not invited was my first Amberliebe, Ambre 114 by Histoire des Parfums. At that time I was totally of the socks of this fragrance and had dedicated 9.5 points and an enthusiastic comment to it, but already at that time I recognized that this baroque-exaggerated Monstre amber is practically not wearable for a person born after 1780
The contestants were two MPG fragrances, Ambre Précieux, which I had once liked very much in my favourite perfumery in Brussels, and his heavier sibling Ambre Doré, unknown to me until then; and two fragrances that had come to me as samples, Ambre Orient from the Armani-Privé series (unknown to me until then) and Bel Ambre by Jacques Fath (tested about a year ago and honored with 8.0 and a statement), as well as this one here, Ambre Fétiche; after Ambre 114 my second Amberliebe.
First, I let the two fragrances of the perfumer and glove maker compete against each other, the Précieux and the Doré. The Doré flew out pretty fast, (also) it was too overloaded and pompous for me and above all too stinky (such a striking oud vetiver mucky note that didn't suit me). The Précieux, which seemed finer and more chased to me than it had been in Brussels, stayed in the game and competed against this one the following day.
I actually thought that was the early final. Above all, however, I was irritated at first, because Ambre Précieux came across quite differently this time than the day before; starting rather inelegantly with a somewhat overly dissonant sound and only after about an hour finding its elegant, bright centre, and then fading away into a wonderfully spicy, firm, balsamic, enduring base (which I cannot describe properly, but which is unique). Ambre Fétiche, on the other hand, is very different. Among the amber scents, Ambre Fétiche stands out with its strong frankincense notes, with it one buys, so to speak, Two-in-One, it is in comparison to the "Encense Flamboyant" from Goutal even the (even) more beautiful frankincense scent, I think. It's no disadvantage to me because I like incense notes. In the first act, which lasts for the first one to two hours, this incense is perhaps even in the foreground, here Ambre Fétiche impresses as a light grey, deep powdery, fine-silvery sparkling, dust-dry, almost ash-like incense spicy scent, high tones in major, rather unusual (I can't think of any comparison), which then gradually glides over into a (no longer greatly changed) perfectly balanced 10-point basis. Here then gold instead of silver, minor instead of major, deep instead of high tones, but at least as beautiful. The really nice thing here is - I think even pre-reviewers have already noticed this - that we have the full, deep, rich, oriental-spicy, almost gourmand cuddly program including vanilla and patchouli, but that this never, never, never does not slide into plush or exaggerated sweetness. That always remains beautifully centered and grown up, to which surely also the rather serious iris contributes by nature. That convinced me even more, and so Ambre Fétiche stayed on the field.
It should be inserted here that amber scents are apparently somewhat unstable in my perception; the perception of Précieux on one day so and on the other so does not seem to be an isolated case. Maybe Amber has a general tendency to go astray, I noticed that especially with amber scents the reviews often diverge a lot, not so much in the rating as in the description: One finds a scent wonderfully warm, the other enormously cool, one cuddly, the other hard etc.
But I wanted to finish it at some point and get an amber on my shopping list without months of undecided endurance tests. The Ambre Orient by Armai Privé was blamelessly eliminated from the competition. I only had a very small sample, applied it in the evening and fell asleep shortly before my normal time (maybe it was mixed with a sleeping pill that worked through the skin). So I only got the first five minutes and the next morning the breath; well, then not. I don't like the Armani-Privé series very much anyway.
What remained was Jacques Fath's Bel Ambre, who I had to play again directly against Ambre Fétiche. This time I liked it much, much better than when I first tested it, and I was impressed by the strong contrast to Ambre Fétiche in a direct comparison. Of all the scents tested, Bel Ambre is the most linear and the most suitable for everyday use: he doesn't strike with overly striking amber notes (which are often perceived as somewhat controversial not only in my environment), nor with incense or other "notes on which spirits divide". It is a very valuable, differentiated, but also rather uniform, calm, smooth, round, open, somewhat darker, rather heavy-firm, but also discreet scent (probably because the projection is muffled and eccentric notes are missing). I notice a certain note (I call it "peculiarly fruity", I can't say better than that), which reminds me strongly of Opium Pour Homme from YSL (I really like it and will wear it again tonight to celebrate the day).
Result: I'm not yet running to the next perfumery, but put Ambre Fétiche on my wish list. The two MPGs are placed in the exchange and gift box, although this decision is only very close for the "Ambre Précieux". The remaining sample "Bel Ambre" comes to the samples for future use. Should I ever want to own two Amber, it would be the perfect contrast fragrance for Ambre Fétiche.
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