HL.22 Harry Lehmann

The miracle has indeed happened: The Lehmann perfume manufactory on Kantstraße in Berlin, a highly original Prussian contribution to the world fragrance heritage, is back. Mr. Lehmann, the somewhat older but by no means frail last family heir of the business, passed away unexpectedly about a year ago, just before the 100th anniversary of the company, and certainly before the succession question was resolved. The quirky little shop was closed down, and I know no one who expected a reopening.

However, it seems that a motivated team of businesspeople and fragrance specialists, who respect the Lehmann legacy and operate somewhat mysteriously in the background, has come together to continue the brand and its offerings. What has been seen so far inspires unreserved optimism: The name "Harry Lehmann" remains, the historically grown fragrance assortment is being taken over, and the tradition of bottling in simple flacons of various desired sizes is being continued. Changes have been and will be made where I would have recommended them to the old Mr. Lehmann, who apparently was not a gifted businessman: terminating unfavorable licensing agreements, establishing a fully functional online shop, moderate price increases, and a careful decluttering of the shop (with the discontinuation of the iconic but ultimately unsuitable artificial flower department).

The fragrance assortment of the "new Harry Lehmann" is therefore almost the same as that which was offered at the time of the old Mr. Lehmann's death. However, two newcomers stand out, both in name: "HL 22" and "HL 33". At least with "HL 22", it is clearly a new creation and not a traditional Lehmann fragrance. For not only was there no fragrance of this name as of 2022/2023, but the new Lehmann website also promotes the scent as "born from the first perfumes created by Harry Lehmann." This seems to imply that this fragrance was somehow experimentally blended from the formulas of the earliest Lehmann originals (it is not specified whether from those still marketed or already discontinued, or from which ones at all).

The number 22 seems to refer less to the year 1922 (although the company's advertising cautiously alludes to the Roaring Twenties) and more to the ominous (and similarly ominously continued by the new owners) Lehmann numbering system. The fragrance is designated as No. 22 - I suspect that the numbering sequence is essentially chronological, but that numbers freed up by the discontinuation of fragrances have been and will be reassigned - and I would bet that this was also the case here.

I find the fragrance itself difficult to grasp and describe, especially since I cannot connect it to any prior reviews. Upon spraying, it initially impresses as demanding and harsh, bordering on dissonance, coming across as deep and underlying; its color, for me, is a deep purple. If I had to isolate individual notes, which is generally not my strength, I would associate fruity tones (leaning towards dark fig) and sinister spices.

After at most half an hour, the scene calms down noticeably, the fragrance becomes rounder and more pleasant, but remains dense and full-bodied (without being overwhelming). I would tend to deny floral and aldehydic notes (so much for the topic of the 20s); regarding flowers, I might not completely rule out dark, heavy hints of rose or hyacinth.

While the fragrance temperature fluctuates around the zero line between cautious coolness and earthy, unobtrusive warmth, and the fragrance remains compact, almost opaque in texture, appearance, and feel, earthy-brown notes emerge, which could plausibly be explained by the notes of angelica root and woods that are noted here at Parfumo (by whoever has sniffed them), although I do not perceive HL 22 as predominantly woody.

Later on, a cheeky minty note (with stevia sweetness) tickles my nose, reminding me of another numbered fragrance from Lehmann, namely the anniversary 90, and a gourmand note oscillating between bitter chocolate gingerbread and spiced speculoos joins in.

All in all, an exciting, absolutely not failed experiment and a beautiful scent, which, according to the unanimous vote of Ms. Spee and the reviewer, is worth testing for both men and women, even if it does not have what it takes to immediately become my favorite Lehmann.