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03/06/2020
Profumo
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Profumo
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I don't usually like scents from blue bottles...
I first dismissed 'Lacrima' as incense soliflor. Not that I have anything against incense, no, on the contrary, I like incense, but it often develops a dominance that soon tires me out. I have a similar experience with oud or saffron, the use of which often has a resounding effect.
Yet incense is not supposed to be contained in 'Lacrima' at all. The notes, on the other hand, speak of elemi-resin and smoky wood: it is quite possible that these two ingredients create a kind of incense effect, very possible even. In any case, it smells wonderfully resinous, woody and smoky. But by no means only that!
Incense scents - I'll stick to incense for now - become really interesting for me only when one knows how to counter the dominance of incense, light, fresh nuances for example, or fruity ones.
In the case of 'Lacrima', the perfumer has chosen aldehydes and pink pepper: airy, ethereal freshness and fruity, spicy pungency form the fragrance's entry point, accompanying the deeply organizing tone of the smoking balms
Towards the middle of the course, as these fragrance-brightening notes begin to fade and the smoky resins perform their high mass, the base notes slowly appear from below: labdanum and benzoin, moss and castoreum. To the latter, it should be said: I can't smell it, not at all. Apparently the amount used is so small that it is hardly noticeable, or it is so well integrated that it is not noticeable at all.
Anyway: Animalistic phobics, don't worry, the beaver hasn't been seen!
This is where the balms come into play more and more clearly. The fragrance becomes softer, rounder and more flattering as it progresses. Here it begins to become what it should be: a comforter, a remedy for heartache and grief. At least that's what the manufacturer, who attributes these properties to 'Lacrima', wants it to be It may work for some people. I don't like to settle down in such states of mind, and therefore don't need any olfactory consolation, but towards the end 'Lacrima' already unfolds a pleasant, downright calming and, for my sake, also therapeutic effect.
Labdanum and moss give the fragrance a classic chypre twist, far from the dimensions of a mitsouko, but recognizable when smelling the fragrance more closely. This unobtrusive chypre character completes the fragrance in the base, frames it downwards, just as the aldehydes arch it dome-like in height, and - following Ergoproxy's words - lets it rest in itself. The fragrance stays with itself, doesn't tell many stories at once, doesn't change, stays with the theme. And the theme is: if you feel like crying, do something good for yourself, and if it's rubbing yourself with soothing and fragrant balms.
What I like very much about 'Lacrima', apart from the fact that the fragrance smells wonderful, is its proportions: the few notes give it a slender stature that still has a presence. The fragrance is clearly perceptible without ever getting loud - there are truly different calibres of incense! This pleasant but not impertinent presence lasts for a long time, very long, at least on my skin. The very next morning I can still perceive it as a soft skin scent.
Only the blue colour of the bottle doesn't really want to match the content, just as it doesn't really fit 'Phantasma' - only to some extent to 'Melancolia'. But probably the blue, besides the white of the cardboard box, is more likely due to the link to Hippocrates, medicine and pharmacy, especially to the vessels in which the medicines were once kept: white ceramics with blue lettering.
In this sense, the blue fits quite well again, even though I usually don't like fragrances from blue bottles - I like this one very much.
It's a good thing I distrusted my first judgment!
Yet incense is not supposed to be contained in 'Lacrima' at all. The notes, on the other hand, speak of elemi-resin and smoky wood: it is quite possible that these two ingredients create a kind of incense effect, very possible even. In any case, it smells wonderfully resinous, woody and smoky. But by no means only that!
Incense scents - I'll stick to incense for now - become really interesting for me only when one knows how to counter the dominance of incense, light, fresh nuances for example, or fruity ones.
In the case of 'Lacrima', the perfumer has chosen aldehydes and pink pepper: airy, ethereal freshness and fruity, spicy pungency form the fragrance's entry point, accompanying the deeply organizing tone of the smoking balms
Towards the middle of the course, as these fragrance-brightening notes begin to fade and the smoky resins perform their high mass, the base notes slowly appear from below: labdanum and benzoin, moss and castoreum. To the latter, it should be said: I can't smell it, not at all. Apparently the amount used is so small that it is hardly noticeable, or it is so well integrated that it is not noticeable at all.
Anyway: Animalistic phobics, don't worry, the beaver hasn't been seen!
This is where the balms come into play more and more clearly. The fragrance becomes softer, rounder and more flattering as it progresses. Here it begins to become what it should be: a comforter, a remedy for heartache and grief. At least that's what the manufacturer, who attributes these properties to 'Lacrima', wants it to be It may work for some people. I don't like to settle down in such states of mind, and therefore don't need any olfactory consolation, but towards the end 'Lacrima' already unfolds a pleasant, downright calming and, for my sake, also therapeutic effect.
Labdanum and moss give the fragrance a classic chypre twist, far from the dimensions of a mitsouko, but recognizable when smelling the fragrance more closely. This unobtrusive chypre character completes the fragrance in the base, frames it downwards, just as the aldehydes arch it dome-like in height, and - following Ergoproxy's words - lets it rest in itself. The fragrance stays with itself, doesn't tell many stories at once, doesn't change, stays with the theme. And the theme is: if you feel like crying, do something good for yourself, and if it's rubbing yourself with soothing and fragrant balms.
What I like very much about 'Lacrima', apart from the fact that the fragrance smells wonderful, is its proportions: the few notes give it a slender stature that still has a presence. The fragrance is clearly perceptible without ever getting loud - there are truly different calibres of incense! This pleasant but not impertinent presence lasts for a long time, very long, at least on my skin. The very next morning I can still perceive it as a soft skin scent.
Only the blue colour of the bottle doesn't really want to match the content, just as it doesn't really fit 'Phantasma' - only to some extent to 'Melancolia'. But probably the blue, besides the white of the cardboard box, is more likely due to the link to Hippocrates, medicine and pharmacy, especially to the vessels in which the medicines were once kept: white ceramics with blue lettering.
In this sense, the blue fits quite well again, even though I usually don't like fragrances from blue bottles - I like this one very much.
It's a good thing I distrusted my first judgment!
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VanAllan
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