Cambodian oud
Elemi resin
Ginger
Lemon
Animalic notes
Calamondin
Frankincense
Mint
Moss
Smoke
Soil
Thyme
Cypress
Floral notes
Leather
Mace
Red cedar
Red pepper
Mairuwa
76 Reviews
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Mairuwa
Top Review
10
Bark-Infused Refreshing Drink with Ten Letters?
The dilemma of some small and discerning fragrance manufacturers is that they can only produce in very small batches due to the exclusivity of certain raw materials and a limited budget. The demand from a manageable but loyal group of enthusiasts sometimes absorbs their production so immediately and completely that the creations inevitably remain reserved for a very small circle of insiders and do not even make an appearance on the public market. This applies to the limited fragrances from the house of N.O.A.M. and particularly to the annually released “Millefleurs”: Here, reproducibility is not only impossible due to some non-purchasable raw material rarities but also because of the special approach to composition (no scale, no notes), which means that not even a formula remains for posterity, and the fragrance disappears forever with the last drop of the produced mere 100ml (in words: one hundred milliliters). This has, on one hand, the charm of the precious because of its irretrievability; on the other hand, one would wish for a larger circle to experience these sensory impressions. I hardly know how it happens that I once again belong to the circle of the fortunate chosen ones who are granted the privilege of tasting this creation. I can only express my heartfelt thanks to BeJot for their generosity once again.
In my review of Millefleurs 2023, I referred to the tapestries of the same name and found the image of the shimmering pattern of many bright highlights against a dark background fitting for the description of the fragrance. However, one could also draw on the technique of Venetian Millefiori glassware for an image. In a complex process, glass rods are coated with ever new, colorful layers of glass and fused together. When sliced into narrow discs, flower-like cross-sections emerge, giving the technique its name and which are then fused into larger, new patterns.
N.O.A.M. blends the accords that have accumulated over the course of the year at the end of each year - a vintage selection, where equally multi-colored sparkling floral stars are recombined and fused into a new pattern, a new image. With additional essences, oils, and tinctures, this noble “leftover blend” is rounded off and refined into an independent new opus. Just as phrases and motifs in music and art can be varied into ever new works, here an exciting new piece emerges from building blocks that are newly combined.
At the center of the fragrance this time is indeed, as the name suggests, a pronounced and very beautiful citrus note, where lemon and calamondin orange, a cross between kumquat and mandarin, play the leading role. Right from the start, these building blocks sparkle, complemented by mint and ginger - a bright, yet slightly herb-bitter, almost sharp opening. But “LemOudnade” would of course not be a N.O.A.M. if it were to exhaust itself in the noble bitter citrus refreshment. Soon, a green-woody spiciness emerges. Animalic and floral notes remain restrained but undoubtedly contribute their part. A very beautiful, soft oud is discernible, indeed also frankincense, which I consciously perceive for the first time in a fragrance from the brand. Patchouli is not on the list, but this time it is rather cursory than exhaustive, and I think it hides in an accord that is summarized here as “earth.” In any case, it is very beautifully soft but still distinctly present in a later stage of the development.
LemOudnade feels new yet familiar if you have had other compositions from N.O.A.M. under your nose. That accords were used here that one might already know from other fragrances of the house seems immediately plausible. At times, one almost thinks to discern reminiscences, quotable references to existing works. A hint of “Le Vent des Îles” seems to flash briefly. And a touch of “The Dark Heart of Papua” materializes for a moment associatively in the typical way that the Swiss manufacturer understands how to let individual components and building blocks shine throughout a fragrance impression. Or is this just a psychological effect arising from expectations?
Overall, however, I believe I discern more of a classic progression here than with some other fragrances from the house of N.O.A.M. This leads, after some time, into an increasingly softer, woody-earthy base that resonates remarkably long. The typical oscillation, the surreal interplay of crystal-clear emerging individual notes, seems to be somewhat weaker here for me than with some other fragrances from the brand, which may be due to the fact that I could only use a drop on my wrist as a test basis instead of a spray cloud due to a relatively small test amount.
Overall, a beautiful fragrance of the accustomed high quality that one has come to expect from the house by now. Nevertheless, it is not necessarily my favorite - perhaps I prefer the slightly darker fragrances of the manufacturer even more. But that is not a criticism, rather a weighing of personal preferences.
In my review of Millefleurs 2023, I referred to the tapestries of the same name and found the image of the shimmering pattern of many bright highlights against a dark background fitting for the description of the fragrance. However, one could also draw on the technique of Venetian Millefiori glassware for an image. In a complex process, glass rods are coated with ever new, colorful layers of glass and fused together. When sliced into narrow discs, flower-like cross-sections emerge, giving the technique its name and which are then fused into larger, new patterns.
N.O.A.M. blends the accords that have accumulated over the course of the year at the end of each year - a vintage selection, where equally multi-colored sparkling floral stars are recombined and fused into a new pattern, a new image. With additional essences, oils, and tinctures, this noble “leftover blend” is rounded off and refined into an independent new opus. Just as phrases and motifs in music and art can be varied into ever new works, here an exciting new piece emerges from building blocks that are newly combined.
At the center of the fragrance this time is indeed, as the name suggests, a pronounced and very beautiful citrus note, where lemon and calamondin orange, a cross between kumquat and mandarin, play the leading role. Right from the start, these building blocks sparkle, complemented by mint and ginger - a bright, yet slightly herb-bitter, almost sharp opening. But “LemOudnade” would of course not be a N.O.A.M. if it were to exhaust itself in the noble bitter citrus refreshment. Soon, a green-woody spiciness emerges. Animalic and floral notes remain restrained but undoubtedly contribute their part. A very beautiful, soft oud is discernible, indeed also frankincense, which I consciously perceive for the first time in a fragrance from the brand. Patchouli is not on the list, but this time it is rather cursory than exhaustive, and I think it hides in an accord that is summarized here as “earth.” In any case, it is very beautifully soft but still distinctly present in a later stage of the development.
LemOudnade feels new yet familiar if you have had other compositions from N.O.A.M. under your nose. That accords were used here that one might already know from other fragrances of the house seems immediately plausible. At times, one almost thinks to discern reminiscences, quotable references to existing works. A hint of “Le Vent des Îles” seems to flash briefly. And a touch of “The Dark Heart of Papua” materializes for a moment associatively in the typical way that the Swiss manufacturer understands how to let individual components and building blocks shine throughout a fragrance impression. Or is this just a psychological effect arising from expectations?
Overall, however, I believe I discern more of a classic progression here than with some other fragrances from the house of N.O.A.M. This leads, after some time, into an increasingly softer, woody-earthy base that resonates remarkably long. The typical oscillation, the surreal interplay of crystal-clear emerging individual notes, seems to be somewhat weaker here for me than with some other fragrances from the brand, which may be due to the fact that I could only use a drop on my wrist as a test basis instead of a spray cloud due to a relatively small test amount.
Overall, a beautiful fragrance of the accustomed high quality that one has come to expect from the house by now. Nevertheless, it is not necessarily my favorite - perhaps I prefer the slightly darker fragrances of the manufacturer even more. But that is not a criticism, rather a weighing of personal preferences.
Updated on 03/26/2025
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