
vimiqi
1
I'm not a fan of ambergris, but here's what I'll tell you.
I am impressed by the work of artisan master Filippo Zanini.
His perfume compositions are cohesive and do not fall apart at the base, unlike, for example, the artisan brand Mallo. I am comparing it specifically to Mallo because it seemed to me that both perfumers had a similar approach—creating fairly natural, not too loud, not overpowering fragrances. Unfortunately, however, Mallo has not managed to create a single fragrance that does not fall apart on its way to drying out or turn into something sharply repulsive. I was disappointed, but that doesn't mean everyone will feel the same way; it's just my opinion.
So, back to the fragrance. I don't like ambergris. I haven't tried it very much, but I think I've tried enough to form an opinion that it's just not my kind of ingredient. As we know, no two pieces of ambergris in the world smell the same; it's simply impossible.
But it seems to me that there are still small echoes of ambergris in Sunatran Ghalya. Only in the case of Sumatran Ghalya, the ambergris smells very medicinal, bandage-like, and salty to me, which is not particularly masked by the other floral and coniferous components in the perfume and is only enhanced by animal notes.
Whereas in Fermo Pesca, this ambergris is not added in huge amount, and the perfumer has found and delicately managed to hide the characteristics of ambergris that I did not like in Sumatran Ghalya in this perfume with medicinal herbal notes and some others that I encounter for the first time in perfumes, such as onycha, buckwheat, and caper.
With this perfume, I don't feel like I'm in the mouth of a dead and decomposing whale (although Sumatran Ghalya has characteristics that make it interesting to smell because of this strange animal nuance, but as a perfume, I find it repulsive and don't understand where to wear it).
Here, I feel like a sailor on the deck of my old yacht, which smells of aged wood, with a first aid kit hanging nearby, containing jars of old herbal tinctures that are not tightly closed and therefore give off that characteristic scent, and of course the smell of salty waves.
Here, ambergris and herbs create for me the very scent of salty sea waves (I had seen such reviews of ambergris in other perfumes before, but I didn't feel it that way; for me, ambergris felt like something salty, petrified, old, and bandages soaked in medicine).
For me, this is the most beautiful fragrance containing ambergris in a good concentration. At least, that's what I think at the moment.