Aglianico

Do you like tea?

Summer flows through the country, the colors of the map become less intense, Nordic summer drought, white-light yellow hope, fused with heat. In the offices, the gentlemen with sweat stains under their armpits. Maybe it's air-conditioned. Then after work, the wall of heat.

For this time, for these hours, Imagination is particularly suitable. Fantasy, imagination. The imagination of something beautiful(er). The freshness of imagined hope-fulfillment.

Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud continues to ride the train of sophisticated complaisance. That complaisance which, after the unblinding of a blind tasting/indulgence, is dubbed and judged as "mainstream" and "clearly too expensive for that".

LV is driving a clear agenda. Building a fragrance portfolio with sufficient distinctiveness and coverage of important areas/genres. Which references (not to be confused with fragrance twins!) were godfathers, can perhaps not be assigned 100%, but I could imagine something like: Orage - Terre d'Hermès, Afternoon Swim - Mandarino di Amalfi, Ombre Nomade - "yet another Oud" etc. And now Imagination. Primarily a tea scent for me. Not similar to, but in the wake of Gucci p. H. II. Perhaps that is in proportion even less sweet fragrance yes said reference.

In the first few minutes, I notice the slightly dusty, aromatic, smoothed cinnamoniness the most, then it becomes quieter, which I find good. In the opening, hesperides from the lab and perhaps nature join hands, refreshing, pleasing, without leaving familiar territory. And tea everywhere. I don't smell Nishane tea. Removes a bit of Assam of India (Berdoues), but only a bit. For me, so far, the best (black) tea scent, even if I'm not so familiar with this genre.

Compared to the Afternoon Swim (which smells not at all similar and which I like freely very much) Imagination has the advantage of being more all-rounder, less pure Schönejahresduft. Compared to Meteorite from the same house, Imagination doesn't drown in a soapy clean musk bath. Serious, but mainstream, yes. Pleasing, fresh, understated, round, no longer green behind the ears, but without age wild growth in the shell. For the office, for just so, for smelling good, not necessarily for the heart.

The shelf life I find surprisingly good. Today: 28 degrees indoor temperature, six hours: still perceptible. Sillage: decent to average, say at least others. Deductions there are dufttechnisch for the initial me too dominant, although still background cinnamon. Otherwise, exactly what I had hoped for: one for everyday life, which I like well and is uncomplicated. The summer will reach into the autumn.

About two years ago I smelled MFK's "Oud" for the first time: on a fragrance strip, in downtown Hamburg, as one test among many. I saved it under "nice and re-test value" and our ways parted. Then, some time ago, a Parfumo who is no longer registered here and who delighted our community for several years with mostly very humorous comments (reviews), wrote what I think was his last comment on this very fragrance. There had been a bereavement and "Oud", I remember, had comforted him a little, if that is possible. Since then, I was looking for this fragrance and now call a remnant bottle my own (thanks to Talux).

So my "back story" of this fragrance is a little melancholy tinged, my current situation is also, the in the country anyway. Right now it's raining, as if for background. And just warms and comforts me this fragrance as probably then that Parfumo, which I honestly miss.

"Oud" is a warm scent, woody, infused with non-sharp saffron threads, spicy through it, minimally spicy. There's a linear sweetness to it somewhere, which sometimes bothers me a bit, but sometimes seems just perfectly proportioned. Atlas cedar theoretically has that quality, warm and rich, slightly sweet. Still, I think there's a bit of vanillin hidden here as in most other scents. Not an edgy wood, then, but soft. I could have imagined well also a little pepper and woody ginger to refresh, but also as it is, it is good.

Oud hides in the overall picture, if it is oud - it will probably be an accord, a replica, one of the deliberately milder kind, without fecundity, without a medicinal impression. Gentle and soft, of a paternal, protective, comforting kind. The perfect scent for rainy autumn days, when storms and hail swirl outside and it's warm inside and you gaze spellbound out into the bustle and darkness.

A little warming silence, a little sadness, restraint, he does not hit you in the face. Also rather atypical of MFK's darker ones in terms of longevity, for which I am very grateful. Actually a southern scent, but just as fitting in the cold of the north. I will happily wear it, in special moments. For the everyday life he is too bad for me.

So here it is: Christine Nagel's first (non-flanker) fragrance for men as in-house perfumer at Hermès. The expectations were - are and remain - high. Terre d'Hermès sends its regards. There are easier tasks than to follow in Jean-Claude Ellenas footsteps.

In view of the forecast that in the next few days certainly still numerous comments on the H24 on Parfumo will rain down, I will be brief in the following and would like to go only to selected aspects.

Yes, it is, as announced, a quite transparent Grünling, which creates an impression of freshness without citricity. A light, increasingly gentle fragrance, fleeting, quiet, not intrusive. For those afraid of clary sage, let me tell you: nothing smells harsh here. Yes, this particular sage is distinct and makes the scent soft and "not completely unsweet" in my opinion, although the scent has absolutely nothing to do with sweetness or even sugary sweetness. Salbeidüfte create this "not completely unsweet" impression with me (Kamilledüfte by the way idiosyncratically also).

My fragrance impression is clearly different between "getetest on paper" and "tested on the skin", although this rarely happens with me. On paper, the individual components are more clearly outlined, but also clings to the first seconds a strange Haribo Colorado-white-pineapple impression, which quickly dissipates (a happiness) and gives way to a "modern green" without any attachment to traditionalism. Green, but not brittle. Tart, but not very tart. Vegetation, but not a forest. It reminds me a bit of the smell of the green of cut flowers after they've been in the vase for a while - but without any rot! In fact, I soon have the promised ironing steam association as well, but would find the attribute "metallic" exaggerated in this regard. Rather "unmoschusartig fluffy", and that in masculine.

The further course is quite linear, the fragrance thereby as addressed always quiet, discreet, serious. H24: one for 24/7.

H24 enters a heavy legacy and probably does not represent another milestone. Nevertheless, it seems to me even more portable than the "Terre", since its high Iso-E-Super proportion already with few splashes sometimes annoys me a little.

So: no work of art, but a wearable fragrance for every day, kept a little "younger" than "Terre", but far from synthetic ingratiation to the middle of the mainstream with quickly circulating interchangeable goods. Worth a test!

Because everyone needs a hobby, I sat down at the kitchen table today and started to rebuild the beautiful Orage by Louis Vuitton. What you just do in times of lockdown. I have to preface this by saying that I'm an ultra-lazy when it comes to fragrance, let alone perfume art. But inspired by Heinssons' blog, I wanted to at least give it a try and approach a fragrance I love very much in a "different" way, and especially my favorite topic: the reduced expressiveness of fragrance pyramids. (Teaser: Today I got here one "before the bow").

To anticipate the result: Even a blind hen sometimes finds a grain.

After two hours, the fragrance was ready (14% concentration), relatively strictly oriented to the fragrance pyramid given here, and balanced between natural and synthetic materials, if you think away Hedione as a "filler" times. "No budget limitations", as a certain Youtuber would say (the result cost under 2 euros per 10 ml, though). Real ambrette (but supplemented by - significantly - more synthetic musk), iris (but X germanica, a little cheaper), vetiver, but also Clearwood (patch-like). Bergamot too, of course. And still a bit of filler and accentuation.

As I said, I'm a layman and can not factually recreate the Orage (but would be very nice because of the price) - the result amazes me, however, because it at least clearly goes in his direction and gets by with 12 ingredients. The indirect "proof" that the fragrance pyramid given here is not pure marketing by LV, but represents essential components truthfully, whether now synthetically replicated or natural. The rest is then some reading into sensible concentrations and proportions, there is plenty of info online.

Findings of my replica: Yet quite a lot of clean patchouli, little vetiver (but would also otherwise too dominant), quite a high proportion of a musk accord for the fluffiness / dustiness of Orage, a lot of bergamot (as indicated here). Darkness due to patchouli/style and vetiver as well as a kind of mustiness, which I like here though. I hope real ambrette was used, because that's a wonderful musky raw material.

Deviations from my variant: the real orge is much drier, more durable, more voluminous, but also more linear with the exception of the bergamot top note. My "variant" is fresher, less deep, a little warmer. And of course more discordant :-) .

So much for the smell and the components.

The durability and sillage are average compared to other men's fragrances - pleasantly so, in my opinion. After the first wearing 1-2 years ago, I thought the dustiness / mustiness would turn me away from this fragrance in the long term, but trial makes prudent. I have since come to appreciate Orage for just that. A dry, serious, masculine scent that might be made for 30+/40+ (wear what you like, of course). Green, initially fresh, then increasingly dry, but without any scratchiness, kind of woody. I imagine the briefing to Jacques Cavallier-Belletrud was something like: "Mix us a Terre d'Hermès that is still independent. Vetiver, but not too much, not everyone likes that. Patchouli, we're not Chanel, but we'd like to be. Not too metallic, stony, austere. No sweetness. Wearable in the office, on a private jet, at the chalet, picking up the little ones from daycare. Can you manage?"

Yes, Mr Cavallier-Belletrud managed. Very well, in fact. Worth a test.

Results of a non-representative street survey that did not take place:

"I find' the pretty generic (did not know the word until yesterday, but have seen it on Google). Is' halt so'n blue, you know, so stupid Chanel, but just unschanellig, but also not as bad as Y and so. Can you spray on it, so now really smells better than a disinfectant, even has 78 revolutions ... aba, so I do not know so right. " (Smells his wrist and frowns) "No, I think there's something better. But like I said, you can do it, it's pretty cheap."

"They copy quite a bit, but this time in silver! Looks a bit like the L'Homme, the one from Yves Saint Laurent, so the bottle, the name yes also. And then the blue ribbed body under the lid: Chanel says hello. I don't think it's creative, but it looks appealing." (Sprays the fragrance on the back of his hand) "Sooooo, let's have a look." (Takes a deep sniff) "Boaaah!" (Pause) "Joa, hm, so a bit like buying cheese cold cuts in plastic packaging at Aldi - you have to eat something." (When asked:) "I mean, the De-En-Ah is not exactly original, but for everyday life it fits perfectly. I see it more on a younger man. It has nothing to do with a gentleman. But nice, yes, nice, you can not complain, ne?"

"I know him, I've tested him before. Couple minutes really nice, maybe a bit sweet, then so'n drydown, which is already somehow mossy, so lab moss, and a bit tart, riper, but no longer really nice, I think. Distinctive, but quiet. I don't know if I'm making myself understood?" (Pause) "Anyway ... It's an office scent, or just home office, whatever. Doesn't hurt, has nothing to do with art. Can go away, but can also stay."

"I've seen this one before, and the Moustache. And I wonder how Rochas could bang out this chemical sauce after that wonderful, lush, sophisticated scent. Hurts my heart, and my nose. Uarghigittigitt ...!"

"I don't know what everyone always has. Hey, 30 euros, bang, bang, bang, smells good. Girlfriend: 'You smell so fresh, honey.' Me like that: "I know". What more do I want? I like this one. Nobrainer, Allrounder, Signature, Dumb-Reach, Digger, oh crap, now I can't think of any more Anglicisms. Well, sh** on it, you know what I mean. Cool release with ok performance. Runs full!"

"Functionality becomes secondary to art. Shareholders applaud." (When asked if anything should be added there:) "That's laconic."

"Good: Top notes (fresh-cyric-fruity, modern), bottle, sprayer, price, versatility. Medium: -. Bad: originality, base note, durability. Recommendation: blind purchase no, test yes, if looking for an everyday fragrance in the affordable segment. Alternatives: Bleu de Chanel, Allure ..., Dior Homme 2020 etc. etc."