AromaX

To me it's a friendly introduction rose for the hipster who likes the idea of wearing a rose perfume but doesn't like the scent of roses. A trendy peppery woody fragrance with comforting sandalwood sweetness, musk with the hints of cumin for the sense of flesh and just enough rose to justify its appearance in the name. A trendy fragrance.

This scent reflects on the joyous moments of my childhood, evoking a sense of comfort that effortlessly draws a smile. The rich, dark chocolate notes of patchouli mingle with the delicate, creamy sweetness of caramel, reminiscent of the simple joys in life—like the happiness found in savoring a sweet treat, a universal pleasure that transcends age. While I don't hold memories of a chocolate caramel stick wrapped in a yellow wrapper with a joke printed on it — a memory that served as Jean-Christophe Hérault's inspiration—I can join the perfumer in his reverie through this scent.

According to the perfumer Jean-Christophe Hérault, this fragrance is a journey through the cherished whimsy of innocence. Created with the finest naturals by Laboratoire Monique Rémy (LMR, a part of IFF), it includes iris concrete, ambrette absolute, patchouli, and vetiver, with the addition of Ambertonic, an IFF captive molecule that combines the aspects of amber, musk, and wood.

The caramel sweetness of ethyl maltol and the presence of heavy modern ambery woody molecules could potentially be overwhelming for sensitive noses, yet they are perfectly tempered here. The scent behaves like a warm, comforting woolen sweater, sitting intimately close to the skin, enveloping the wearer in a soft embrace.

Called "Space Cowboy" by its creator Nicolas Beaulieu this scent features an above 5% overdose of Cosmofruit (an IFF captive that combines the nuances of quince, dried fruit and tarte Tatin) mixed with a fougére accord. Supported with another overdose of clary sage where essential oil adds to an aromatic component of a fougére and absolute gives more ambery tobacco nuance together with sandalwood and coumarinic sweetness.

The first sniff brought Aventus into my mind. Not because it's a smell alike, but due to a similar structure of fruity fougére where pineapple is substituted with a different fruit. I could not recall any fruit from my memory, but it was something dry, a little bit sweet and dark. The fougére part appeared a bit generic at first, with a distinct metal undertone. But the dry down was quite amazing combining dark ambery sweetness of tobacco and leather. The fruity note was still present and it appeared to be so familiar...

Suddenly I got an insight. It reminded me of a juniper berry. Not the oil from the twigs or berries, but the taste of dried berry inside my mouth - dry, a little bit sweet and fruity with a dark tobacco undertone and aromatic touch. It's funny how our perception can work. As at the second attempt I could not smell the separate parts anymore - no generic fougére, no metal nuances. Just that impression of chewing on a juniper berry from the beginning till the end. Interesting how all different aspects have fallen together into an integer image I like.

The Dark Side by Francesca Bianchi reminds me of those guided meditations where you have to enter the cellar of your subconsciousness to meet less known parts of yourself. Spraying it is like entering a basement to follow the smell of wax from the burning candles and a trail of an incense smoke. A place that never has seen the sunlight. Or may be a dark boudoir where the muddy windows are covered with black-out curtains. Lit by the candlelight and infused with the spicy smell of resins mixed with a trail of a honeyed floral nectar. A retro vanity table in the middle reveals you the symbols of your dark side - an old wooden jewel box full of forbidden secrets, a bright red lipstick in a silver case and a porcelain powder box... What do they mean to me? Let's look into the darkness of the mirror to face the dark side.

"Pavlova" is a pink fluffy cloud of transparent muskus decorated with red berries. Not the smell of the "Pavlova" dessert itself, but a sensual representation of it. Strawberry juice, an echo of "Strawberry in cream" (a popular candy from the USSR times) and a layer of sweet and sour jam from red berries. The muskus cloud here is not something I smell. I rather feel its presence as a sense of transparent fullness within the smell. A scene for the berries to play their role. It also remember similar musks as a feeling of pink mist from some aquarel-like perfumes of roses and peonies. An lovely light and airy fragrance...