Benan

I am not a perfume expert, do not know all the notes and cannot name all the notes. On my account, I rate fragrances that I own and have therefore been able to test over a longer period of time.

So my sweeties today for Jazz Club by Maison Margiela. I tested the entire range in my trusted perfumery because the aesthetics of the bottles really appealed to me. I can say about the whole range that there are some fragrances that are really beautiful and well thought out, but the others don't appeal to me at all. But this is about Jazz Club, for me the best of the range, which is also the reason why I bought it.

What does it smell like and when can you wear it?
Jazz Club is a special fragrance. You already know the scent, this slightly darker, seductive, sweet one. (e.g. from Dior Homme Intense, Tom Ford Noir Extreme, Azarro Most Wanted Parfum,...) but there are a few notes in Jazz Club that you wouldn't expect. There are two notes in particular that are clearly noticeable and make it special: the rum and the tobacco. When I saw the tobacco listed, I was a bit scared. I like tobacco smoke in my lungs, but not in fragrances. For example, unlike many people, I'm not a fan of Tom Ford's Tabacco Vanilla. In contrast to Tabacco Vanilla, the tobacco in Jazz Club is much more pleasant and harmonizes beautifully with the rum and vanilla. These notes also make the fragrance for me. For me, they are the most present and make it the most special. The rum doesn't make the fragrance alcoholic, but goes in a very sweet, somewhat spicy direction with the vanilla. This is probably due to the pepper listed. For me, Jazz Club is above all a sweet fragrance that is slightly smoky and woody. For me, it is an absolutely everyday fragrance for the slightly colder season or for going out on dates. The tobacco and rum simply make it special and it stands out from the crowd for me.

How is the durability and performance?
It should be noted that, as far as I know, all Maison Margiela fragrances are eau de toilettes (I think that's a bit of a shame). The performance for a "modern" edt is ok, but I expected a bit more. In general, "heavier" and darker fragrances are stronger and last longer than fresher fragrances. However, the longevity of Jazz Club fell a little short of my expectations. I am perfectly happy with the longevity of a One Million edt or Dior Sauvage edt and was expecting one of these. But Jazz Club is a little worse. The longevity is not terrible, but as I said, you know edt's that do it better. Mostly also for a cheaper price, One Million e.g. 100ml ~ 80€. It's just a tick worse, but for me that's no reason not to recommend it. It's not a penetrating fragrance, but something more pleasant, which is very suitable for everyday use and many people like it, which brings one or two compliments. Especially in more intimate situations.

Conclusion
To cut a long story short, I like the Jazz Club. It is not a typical dark, sweet, masculine fragrance, but stands out from the crowd. The rum and tobacco are just super nice with the vanilla and make it a very well-rounded fragrance. It's perfect for the colder months of the year and is a very good scent for going out on a date. As I like slightly stronger fragrances, I would personally like an EdP version. I paid €100 for it at Breuninger. But for the "normal" price of ~120€ for the 100ml I can recommend it with a clear conscience. It's simply unique, doesn't do anything wrong and the more I wore it, the more I was won over by it. For me, it's even suitable for a blind buy or as a gift if you're not put off by the tobacco. As mentioned at the beginning, I find the bottle very aesthetically pleasing, but 2 things bother me personally.
1. the sprayer, which doesn't really disperse the fragrance, but rather makes the water pistol
And
2. that there was no cap. My mother has the Springtime in a Park by Maison Margiela and had a little plastic cap with it, but I didn't with the Jazz Club, which bothers me a bit because I travel a lot and like to store my fragrances in my toiletry bag
However, in contrast to the first point, this is criticism at a high level. A big plus point, however, is that the fragrances are refillable.

In short, I'm not a perfume expert, I don't know all the notes and I can't name them all. On my account, I only rate fragrances that I own and have therefore been able to test over a longer period of time.

So my sweeties today on Tom Ford Fucking Fabulous. It's one of my last purchases, simply because I was always too embarrassed to pay the overpriced price of around 250€ for the 50ml. In a nutshell, it's a phenomenon. Everyone has heard of it, few have smelled it and virtually no one owns it. There are also many rumors about him with the whole pheromone story (whether he has any or not) and why there is an uncensored and a censored version (where instead of fucking there is a red line). If anyone knows anything about this, please feel free to share it with me. I have no opinion on all the rumors, I've only heard them and I don't know what's true and what's not. I own the uncensored one and am now sharing my opinion.

What does it smell like and when can you wear it?
The fact that it only lists fragrance notes and not top, heart and base notes definitely makes sense. It smells linear and doesn't develop in a completely different direction. Notes that I particularly smell are the almond, the lavender and the vanilla, which goes in a very creamy direction. For me, Fucking Fabulous is the modern interpretation of what a man smells like. It is very masculine, a little woody, creamy, spicy and sweet but not too sweet due to the leather and the spice. It is generally very well balanced. The fragrance notes harmonize wonderfully together. The fragrance is suitable for all occasions. It is almost always wearable and is never wrong except when the temperatures are too warm. When I smell it, I immediately have the image of a man in a suit in my mind's eye. For me, it is simply masculinity and elegance as a fragrance. Nevertheless, it also smells very seductive. When I think of date fragrances, I immediately think of very sweet fragrances like Dior Homme Intense. (one of my absolute favorite fragrances) But Fucking Fabulous shows me that a date fragrance can work without being overly sweet and works at least as well, if not better. I was almost always asked about it when I was wearing it. I can't think of any other fragrance that smells like it. Simply very unique but also very special. When I wear it, I immediately feel the need to dress a little more chic, as it somehow radiates such elegance for me. For me, the fragrance is simply an absolute 10.

On the subject of unisex: I don't understand it. For me, it's not a women's fragrance, it doesn't give me any feminine signals or anything like that. In my opinion, it is clearly a man's fragrance.

But how is the performance?
*take a deep breath in and out*
I'm really tired of having to put up with poor longevity for an extremely overpriced price with so many fragrances that I love. I was at exactly the same point with Creed Aventus, which is still cheap compared to Fucking Fabulous (100ml for ~270€). But now back to Fucking Fabulous. The longevity is not good. Due to the listed notes (which are all rather heavy) and the fact that it's an edp, you expect a lot. But it disappoints. A One Million, which costs ~70€ for 100ml and is an edt has better longevity and sillage. Don't get me wrong, Fucking Fabulous is not like drugstore fragrances in performance, but slightly better than a Creed Aventus. But for this outrageous price, it's not acceptable and also not bearable. I just don't understand how you can put so much effort into the fragrance and then take something like this off in terms of performance. It remains a mystery to me, which leaves me with question marks, anger and sadness.

Conclusion
Fucking Fabulous is a beautiful fragrance. Perfectly balanced, very unique and special. It goes in a different direction than the typical bestseller fragrances. Very daring but it worked perfectly. I have really taken it to my heart and simply love the scent.

But can I recommend it?
If you are "stupid" enough to spend ~250€ on 50ml of alcohol that smells like something (like me). I still wouldn't invest it in the Fucking Fabulous. 250€ for 50ml. For that price you can get 200ml Dior Homme intense, 240ml Mancera Instant Crush, around 350ml One Million, 100ml Creed Aventus or even 100ml Xerjoff Accento. Yes, it is super beautiful and special. But you shouldn't let yourself be blinded and you have to look at it without fan glasses. It smells nice, but the durability is poor and the price is far too high for what you get. For me, this is generally the problem with the Tom Ford Private Blend range. The lost cherry and the oud Wood have exactly the same problem. (I never wear them separately but always combined) they harmonize beautifully together but just don't last long. Especially with an oud wood you expect that. I don't know of any oud fragrance with worse longevity. Tom Ford has simply shown that the Private Blend range of their fragrances is no longer recommendable. How can it be that a Tom Ford Noir Extreme (beautiful fragrance, which I also own 100ml= ~140€) has better longevity than almost the entire Private Blend range?

But to draw a conclusion: Fucking Fabulous has shown me how beautiful a fragrance can be. But its performance and price make it ridiculous and therefore a fucking disappointment.

In short, I'm not a fragrance expert, I don't know all the notes and I can't name all the notes. I only rate fragrances on my account that I own myself and have therefore tested over a longer period of time.

So here are my treasures today for Erba Pura, as promised in my Accento review. I am well aware that the Erba Pura now has a rather (to put it nicely) mistreated image. I've owned it for quite a long time now and never thought it was worth talking about. Now that the hype is more or less over and opinions are pretty divided, I'll add my two cents and share my opinion. I'm judging it here purely objectively, without trying to please any one group.

How does it smell and when can you wear it?
Erba Pura is an extremely fruity and sweet fragrance. The fruity notes are also called fresh here on Parfumo, but for me it is more fruity sweet than fresh. It is a very loud, eye-catching fragrance that many people have smelled enough of and learned to hate. It lives almost entirely from its top and heart notes. The only other note I notice is the vanilla, which I only notice slightly in the background after 3-4 hours. As mentioned in my Accento review, Erba Pura is the little loud boy of the Xerjoff family for me. You either love it or hate it. He is very loud, can be very exhausting and a lot of nerves. But you can also really like him. If you're looking for something for every day, something quieter, more serious and fruity, the Erba Pura is completely out of place and you should take a look at the Accento (review on my account). Erba Pura is something for summer and going out. For me, it's only suitable for hot weather. For example, at a beach bar, with a cocktail and a linen shirt unbuttoned halfway, or in a club. There, the little boy can let off steam and is not too obtrusive if you dose it appropriately. Of course, you can also wear it on its own in other situations. But you have to bear in mind that Erba Pura attracts attention because it is really loud, whether you like it or not, and it is not everyone's cup of tea. If fragrances attract attention that are not so hard to like, like a Bleu de Chanel, an Armani Code perfume or something like that, it's not so bad, because they are more suitable for the masses. A Bleu de Chanel or Armani Code simply appeal to more people and are usually perceived more positively than an Erba Pura. If you wear Erba Pura in the wrong situations, it can be distracting. You don't take a little boy into your meeting. That's why I only recommend it for situations in which you want to stand out and be noticed. It's definitely not something for every day for me.
On the unisex topic: yes. Absolutely unisex for me. In the meantime, I almost think it's going in a more feminine direction. It's very fruity and sweet.

But why the 8.5 for the fragrance?
I find the Erba Pura on Parfumo a little too critically rated. For me, it is something very special and unique. I only give it a negative rating because it is slightly synthetic (not like TT Kirké, which is pungently synthetic and takes your breath away), because of this one note, which many compare to glue (but which doesn't really bother me personally) and because it smells very "two-dimensional". By that I mean not much happens. It is fruity when sprayed and stays that way. Not much happens. Nothing happens in the background or anything. Good on the one hand, but I wouldn't mind a little depth in it either. Despite all this, I like Erba Pura. It's what makes it so special.

How is the performance?
My benchmark for a 10 in H/S is the Dior Sauvage Elixir. I don't know if it has been relaunched in the meantime, but many people disagree with me here. Of all the fragrances I own and have tested, almost none of them come close to the Sauvage. But the Erba Pura does. How do I notice that? When I spray Erba Pura or Sauvage on myself, go out on the town or to the club and lie back in bed after a full evening, I can still smell these fragrances very strongly on me. Fragrances that can withstand this deserve a 10 from me. The only fragrances that have managed this for me were, as I said, Sauvage Elixir, Erba Pura and Baccarat Rouge 540 extrait de parfum. So if you want to stand out and be noticed, it's just the thing. I have already received a few compliments for it. It is very loud and you have to be able to wear it as a man. To be honest, it doesn't suit everyone.

Conclusion
There's not much to say about the Erba Pura. Many people know it and have their own opinion of it. Objectively speaking, however, it is a beautiful, special fragrance that is very unique and delivers a great performance. For me personally, it was over-hyped. That put me off wearing it for a long time. But now the hype is a bit over and I can wear it again. It's just the loud child of the Xerjoff family that wants to be in the foreground, wants everyone's attention and wants to be noticed by everyone. Erba Pura doesn't care whether others like it or not. I give the bottle a 7 because the velvet came off easily after being transported in my toiletry bag and I don't like the lids. For the price, they could be magnetic (criticism at a high level). Otherwise, I find the bottles aesthetic and beautiful.

Do I still recommend it or not?
Yes and no. It is not as expensive per 100ml as the other Xerjoff fragrances. I paid around 230€ for it at Breuninger at the time. For the fact that a Dior Sauvage Elixir at Breuninger now costs almost exactly the same for 100ml, I recommend the Erba Pura rather than the Sauvage (I paid €130 for the Sauvage Elixir 100ml back then, I wonder why it has become so extremely expensive). If you like this fruity sweetness, I recommend the Erba Gold. It has the same DNA as Erbe Pura, just smells a bit rounder and not as penetrating. But it also costs a proud €70 more. However, this price difference for the fine-tuning is not worth it in itself. If you like such fragrances, I recommend the Accento simply because it is the better Erba Pura version for me. It doesn't smell the same but goes in a similar direction. As I said in my Accento review: "It is the more mature, more masculine, wiser and rounder brother". However, if you're watching your wallet too closely and are about to buy the Kirké, which is a cheap imitation and gives you a headache, I recommend the Erba Pura 100%. Simply so that it doesn't become the Kirké.

In short, I am not a perfume expert, I am not familiar with all fragrances and I am only sharing my personal opinion on fragrances that I own and have therefore tested over a longer period of time.

So my sweethearts today for the one million edt. Another classic (you could almost say) that many people know and where opinions are very divided. I share my opinion, my experience and my feelings here.

How does it smell and when can you wear it?
One Million is a fragrance that once you've smelled it, you know it and recognize it. The mandarin in the top note with this oriental flair and a slightly leathery base has a strong recognition value. When I spray it on, I immediately smell this mandarin, which I find super beautiful. Sweet, fruity and fresh for me mega nice and pleasant. If you wait a little longer, oriental notes come in which give the fragrance depth and make it very special in this combination. The base is still slightly leathery. The note comes a little later but is not disturbing at all but harmonizes well. You shouldn't let it intimidate you like an ombre leather is not! If you haven't smelled it yet, spray it on your skin, it smells completely different than on test strips. I think the one Million is suitable for everyday use. The sillage can be strong if you spray a lot. But if you spray 2-3 times, it is not too intrusive at all. Many call it too youthful, as it was used a lot in the club scene with Versace Eros and le Male edt. But for me it is not too youthful. It is absolutely wearable in the club, but I would spray it more often for a stronger sillage. I can't quite imagine it as a date fragrance, but that's because I can immediately think of better fragrances for it, such as a Mancera Instant crush, a Dior Homme intense or a Maison Margiela Jazz Club. Otherwise, it's actually always wearable, whether it's in warmer or colder weather or when going out. It does nothing wrong.

So how is the performance?
For me, the classic fragrances all have a very satisfying performance, even if they are all "only" edt. Whether it's a le male edt, a Versace Eros, a one Million or a Dior Fahrenheit, they all convinced me with their longevity even though they are only edt and relatively cheap. I know many more expensive fragrances that are edp and don't have the same longevity. The one Million lasts me a working day or an evening without any problems. Just good for the price.

Conclusion
I had the One Million back then and recently rediscovered it for myself and bought it again because it just doesn't do anything wrong. On the one hand out of nostalgia, on the other hand because it's cheap and you can actually wear it whenever you don't want to wear an expensive fragrance. I paid ~€65 for the 100ml at Douglas. A great price for a very nice fragrance. The bottle takes a bit of getting used to, it doesn't feel as high-quality because of the plastic and the sprayer sprays badly if you don't press hard and fast enough, which is a bit annoying. In conclusion, I just want to say that I know the fragrance has been used a lot and many people have smelled it, but if you look at it objectively, it is simply a beautiful fragrance that is definitely worth the price. I understand if you don't want to wear it because many people have used it or you just don't like it, but I think the One Million, Dior Sauvage or even a Versace Eros get a bad rap because of their bad image, even though they are basically good fragrances. Just because of the nostalgia, since it was one of my first fragrances and it started the whole love for perfume with me, the One Million will always be a part of me and I will always protect it despite its image.

I'm not a fragrance expert, I don't know all the notes and I can't name all the notes, I only rate fragrances on my account that I own and have therefore been able to test over a longer period of time.

So, my treasures today for Accento. In short, I like it, but my review is neutral and I also have a few things to criticize about it, but more on that in a moment.

What does it smell like and when can you wear it?
Accento is one of the best niche fragrances for beginners. It is also suitable for this. Every time I smell it, I immediately recognize the super cool pineapple, very floral notes but somehow also fruity notes, with a warm base which is very vanilla-like but goes under because of the loud floral and fruity notes. When I see the notes listed, I think yes and no. Somehow understandable, somehow not. For me, it doesn't smell like the pineapple is the only fruity note and otherwise only floral notes. For me, it is the older, more mature, more masculine, more self-confident and wiser brother of Erba Pura. Don't get me wrong, I own the Erba pura and like it (if you think away the very mistreated image) but the Erba Pura is the little boy from the Xerjoff family who is just going through puberty, screaming and running around all the time (review to come). The Accento is simply more mature, more grown-up and better. They have a similarity to this floral/fruity story, but are different scents. Where the Erba Pura is more of a warmer seasons and club scent for me, the Accento is actually pretty much always wearable. It's not wrong in the summer, just like in colder weather, but also works for the club or a meeting in a suit. It is the jack of all trades. You buy a fragrance that is always wearable and also brings you compliments. Hats off to Xerjoff.
Is it unisex? For me, no. I own a lot of unisex fragrances, but I don't think Accento is. An Erba Pura is rightly a unisex fragrance for me, but I find the Accento just a little more masculine and can't imagine it on a woman. Please don't cancel me.

But why didn't I give it a 10? For me, it goes in the direction of Aventus. They both have the same basic idea with the pineapple, but whereas the Aventus is more woody and smoky, the Accento (according to Parfumo) is more floral/fruity (for me). I am simply Team Aventus in terms of scent, no matter how hackneyed it is for many.

But now to the performance
(where the Accento is superior either way)
The Accento has satisfactory longevity and sillage. It is not as loud and does not have as good staying power as its little brother the Erba Pura, but it is not too weak on the chest. To be honest, I was a bit surprised that it has a slightly worse longevity than the Erba Pura, as they are similar, but it really is the case. I tested both of them. The Erba Pura has a louder sillage at the beginning than the Accento. If you let it rest and absorb, the sillage is identical, but the Erba Pura is a little more noticeable for longer. But you can definitely get by with the Accento for a whole working day or evening without having the feeling of not being smelled. However, if you want it to last longer once you have tested it, then I recommend the Sospiro Accento if you can still get it. I was able to compare them and it's slightly better in terms of longevity and sillage than the Xerjoff Accento (but that doesn't mean it has a bad H/S) for 20-30€ more, which doesn't really make a difference in this price range if we're honest. Both smell pretty much the same to me.

Conclusion
For me, the Accento is a super all-rounder that can do everything well enough and also has a good H/S. Thank goodness it is not worn by too many people yet, as most of them buy the Erba Pura or Naxos (of which I am not a fan) from Xerjoff. Do I recommend the Accento for 270€? Yes, but if you can still get it you should rather get the Sospiro Accento for 20-30€ more if you are already spending the money. I'm not a fan of the bottle, it looks aesthetically pleasing, but the cover can come off and I don't like the feel of the lid. For the price, you could have made a magnetic lid or something, which is why I'm giving it a bit of a markdown. But if you buy it, you have a super nice fragrance that will always be a great companion.