Perfume Houses History Blog: Part 2 - Parfums de Marly

Introduction

Parfums de Marly is a niche perfume house that these days barely even needs an introduction. The TikTok influencers are assured to present you AT LEAST one Parfums de Marly fragrance in their Top 10 or similarly-styled videos. But I don't blame them. While the company might lack the deep history of other niche or designer houses (being founded in 2009), it sure is building a legacy that won't be easy to forget. And I mean, with perfumes like Layton, Delina Eau de Parfum, and Herod which have had an immense impact on the fragrance community, you bet the company is securing its place in the game. But as with every other house, issues aren't forbidden, and there might be one, especially in most recent years, with Parfums de Marly.

The Beginnings: A Nod to French Royal Heritage

Parfums de Marly was born in 2009, the founder being Julien Sprecher. Born in Saint-Germain-en-Laye, France, Sprecher was introduced to the world of fragrances at a young age, influenced by his father's work in perfume distribution, most notably for the esteemed Guerlain house in the Middle East. Such an early exposure to luxurious scents would only inspire Julien and increase his appreciation for perfumery. And because of his father's position, Julien had the possibilities to receive training from French perfume and cosmetic brands such as Orlane and Guerlain, deepening his appreciation for the industry and evolving his skills. Hence, in 2009, he launched Parfums de Marly.

The inspiration behind the niche perfume house is of course tied to French history. The opulence of 18th-century France and the splendor of the Royal Court of Louis XV are the main influences. Named after the Château de Marly, the brand pays tribute to the king's love of horses, luxury, and most importantly, fragrances.

Louis XV was renowned for his fragrance admiration and his "perfumed court." And so, Sprecher's intent was to revive this golden era of French perfumery by blending the refinement and grandeur of the 18th century with contemporary tastes. No easy thing to pull off. The brand's emblem also features the 'Chevaux de Marly' sculptures by Guillaume Coustou, paying homage to this historical legacy.

One of the brand's first fragrances was Darley. While it wasn't a blockbuster like other fragrances from the house that would follow, it certainly had its fans and still does today, many considering it a "hidden gem." With a combination of notes like mint, lemon, lavender, cinnamon, tonka bean, amber and many more, Darley is often compared to barbershop-style fougères, only with a more refined, niche quality twist.

While some fans of the fougère genre found Darley as pleasurable, versatile and mature, others said it felt "safe" compared to most other niche scents and that it closely resembles Le Mâle Eau de Toilette. Everyone agreed on one thing, though: it didn't smell bad.

Another fragrance from the early days of the house was Lippizan. Harder to find these days, Lippizan flew under the radar and stayed there until this day. It didn't exactly find much success. Named after the elegant and powerful Lipizzaner horse, the fragrance opens up aromatic and citrusy, after which it progresses to a green, slightly floral woody heart, ending as a leathery-oakmoss scent with a classic chypre structure.

It definitely wasn't a fragrance for everyone; many found it a little too "mature" or "serious". That said, those who did appreciate vintage and classic fragrances, particularly leathery-green scents, would find Lippizan as a must-have.

Breakthrough Releases: Defining the Brand

The early Parfums de Marly fragrances laid the groundwork, and they weren't nearly as successful in order to put the company on the map just yet. They needed something that would stir interest in people, something pleasurable yet still unique; something "breathtaking."

And soon, that breakthrough release would arrive: Godolphin. One of the most well-known fragrances from the brand, it combines a spicy opening, a fruity-leather continuance, and a sweet, musky amber finale. Leather, however, was the main star of the show. It was smooth and luxurious leather, not rough and intensive like a biker's black jacket. The fragrance was often compared to Tuscan Leather Eau de Parfum, only more refined, sweeter, and with less of that smokiness. However, hardcore leather fans were sort of divided into two groups - those who loved Godolphin for its softer leather and wearable yet still luxurious overall scent, and those who thought that it played it a bit too safe in terms of leather. That positioned Godolphin as an entry-level niche leather scent.

While still not as universally loved as some soon-to-be-discussed releases from the brand, Godolphin found much more success than Darley and Lippizan.

Pegasus followed in that same year, 2011, and this one became one of the house's signature hits. It opened with a metallic-fresh lavender joined by an almond kick, but soon it would transition into a very smooth, powdery, and creamy scent. Some described it as having sort of a "lotionsque" feel - like a luxury grooming product, but sophisticated and with great projection. It became popular among both niche and designer fragrance fans because it was mass-appealing but niche-polished at the same time.

Still, Pegasus has its fans and its detractors. Many love its creamy-almond vanilla and sweetness, but just as many feel it is too sweet or too safe, and plenty also picked up on the slightly metallic/sharp opening, which is polarizing. In 2020, though, Pegasus Exclusif was unveiled - deeper, richer, woodier, less sweet and more masculine. Basically a "grown-up" Pegasus, which has been fairly well-received too.

It only gets better from now. In 2012, Herod was born, arguably one of the greatest vanilla-tobacco fragrances ever made. Currently sitting in fifth place on unisex perfumes at the time of this writing, Herod is nothing short of a masterpiece. It combines a spicy cinnamon opening, a rich, sweet pipe tobacco, and a creamy vanilla at the base with a woody and musky undertone like no other fragrance. It's one of those "fireplace in a bottle" scents, as it is comforting, cozy, seductive, and downright luxurious.

What truly made it stand out is the balance it strikes between sweet and smoky, bold and wearable, and it is often compared to high-end tobacco legends like Tobacco Vanille Eau de Parfum, only smoother and more wearable. Fans of spicy tobacco scents can't love it enough, and so it's no wonder Herod sits in the company's top 3 bestsellers.

And just one year later, the company was about to hit gold yet again, with Oajan.

Gourmand lovers, beware! Oajan is a must-try if you enjoy sweet scents, but not the juvenile type of sweetness - the luxury dessert type. Cinnamon, honey, amber, vanilla, blended into a smooth, decadent scent; some said it reminds of cinnamon buns, others associated it with apple pie without the apple. Warm, spicy, and the most important aspect, sweet without being cloying. Even though it hasn't reached quite the mainstream level of Pegasus or Layton, Oajan is heavily praised by gourmand fans, often found on lists regarding the "best gourmand fragrances."

But here comes the one we all have been waiting for. Ranked 2nd in men's perfume at the time of this writing, this is without doubt Parfums de Marly's most famous and best-selling fragrance: Layton. "People's champion" you could call it. Layton is the go-to choice for people who are new to the niche section of perfumery and want something safe, high-quality, and sexy. It is widely loved, widely hyped, particularly on social media, and widely regarded as one of the best fragrances from the past 15 years. Its scent starts off fresh, juicy, with a burst of citrus and apple. It moves onto a fresh-spicy floral development, and it dries down to a smooth and slightly sweet vanilla and cardamom combination. Sounds simple, yet it is masterfully crafted, and you can't deny that it smells great.

But many have pointed out an "issue" here, an issue that is increasingly present in Parfums de Marly fragrances, and that is that it plays it a bit "too safe" or "too designer-like." The fact that niche houses aren't as widely beloved and mass-appealing and take a more "experimental" approach to their scents is exactly what sets them apart from designer brands. There is some truth to that, but more on this later. Still, Layton was and still is a massive hit and one of the most popular men's fragrances from recent years.

Layton Exclusif followed the next year (2017), which basically made things darker, moodier, and more mysterious with a richer and woodier base. It didn't sell as well as Layton, but many niche-invested fans preferred it over the original and many of these fans concluded that this is what the original Layton should've been like. In other words, this was the actual niche version of Layton.

Parfums de Marly's got women covered too! In 2017, the brand, along with the master himself, Quentin Bisch, released Delina Eau de Parfum, a perfume that quickly became one of the most successful niche feminine fragrances of the 2010s, sitting comfortably in the top 3 women's perfume at the time of this writing. The combination of its floral-fruity rose, its sharp and tart lychee + rhubarb combo, and its creamy, woody finale make Delina Eau de Parfum an icon amongst women's perfumes and the new benchmark for modern rose-based scents.

This is Parfums de Marly's crown jewel for women; their best selling women's perfume ever, and even some people who aren't so fond of rose-foward fragrances agree that "Delina Eau de Parfum is different."

Certainly enough, the Exclusif version followed that same year, and as expected, it's a more mature take on the original. Its lychee note is less sharp and tart, softened by pear and an even smooter rose. The incense and oud stay quiet, but still add a slight smokiness and velvety depth to the composition. Ranked 4th on women's perfume, just behind Delina Eau de Parfum, Delina Exclusif was largely successful too - darker, more sensual, and way more evening-appropriate.

One of the most recent hits of the niche house which has received an immense amount of hype and it is growing day by day is Althaïr, released in 2023. Ranked 14th on men's perfume, this is a fragrance that anyone with a deep appreciation of vanilla should try. The opening combines the spice of cinnamon with a touch of citrusy brightness, the heart introduces you to a gorgeous bourbon vanilla, and the base makes for a woody, musky climax with a touch of praline sweetness. Man, that sounds good!

Althaïr has and still receives appreciation from several perfume connoisseurs, particularly for its balance of notes. While yes, vanilla-centric fragrances, especially for men, are usually seen more youthful and playful, Althaïr is the vanilla fragrance for grown-ups - elegant, cozy, effortlessly seductive.

The Controversial Additions

It is all shaping fantastically for Parfums de Marly, isn't it? Most of their fragrances have found massive success, both across niche and designer fragrance enthusiasts. However, "most" hints at some potential issues... or not?

In 2019, Parfums de Marly introduced Kalan - a bold, spicy, metallic, and daring addition to the lineup. It brought a bright, sharp blood orange and spicy black pepper opening which strikes like an uppercut. Things would soften once the lavender and floral notes would join, and in the end, Kalan would dry down to a warm and smooth woody-amber. It's got sort of a hot-cold contrast: fiery spices at the start, cool lavender as the continuance, creamy and woody closing. It's arguably one of Parfums de Marly's most unique fragrances, but it's hardly their most prosperous.

Many love the boldness, the sharpness, the uniqueness of Kalan, but others despise its "aggressiveness" and somewhat synthetic opening. Most agree that it evolves beautifully, however, and it is definitely a fragrance to explore if you're looking for "different" and "bold." But be aware, it is not for the faint of nose.

One year later, while we were all locked at home and avoiding each other as if we were all wearing Sécrétions Magnifiques (it wasn't that bad, thankfully, it was just because of Covid), Parfums de Marly came out with Greenley.

Given the name, green fragrance fans will certainly enjoy this one. It starts off with a juicy, bright green apple, mixed with citruses, progressing to a leafy, herbal twist due to the woods and petitgrain, and settling for a dry, musky base with cedar and oakmoss. It is pleasant, overall; that's not the issue. The reason it finds itself among the controversial list is because plenty of fragheads out there felt as if Greenley was not as "deep" or "niche-smelling" and that it lacked some uniqueness, therefore not justifying the hefty price tag. So while it is praised for its versatility, non-offensive, easy-to-wear style, it did not find as big of a fanbase as other creations from the house.

However, Haltane sure did find a strong audience. Released in 2021, ranked 60th in men's perfume, and sometimes described as "a gentleman in forest armor," Haltane blends its aromatic, fresh fougère opening with a sweet praline and creamy woods, and a dose of deep musk, refined oud, and earthy patchouli/leather combo. It's complex and masculine, refined and very well-made. It plays a game of contrast along the whole wearing: green vs sweet, light vs shadow, classic vs daring... but also niche vs designer.

While beautifully blended without doubt, some critics put accent on the fact that Parfums de Marly might be veering too close towards designer territory in pursuit of mass appeal and, ultimately, more sales. And while Haltane is not the 'best' example of this, it's 'one' example of the niche house's steering towards mass-appeal.

Present Day: Mass-Appeal Niche at Its Peak

Parfums de Marly sits in a unique niche space - one that blends the opulence of niche perfumery with the accessibility and mass appeal of designer brands. Is that a good thing, is that a bad thing? Everyone has a different opinion on it. One thing is certain: Parfums de Marly has risen in the timespan of 15 years to become one of the most influential and renowned perfume houses in the world, feat that has taken other houses decades to accomplish.

And how did they do it? By bridging the gap between designer and niche. People nowadays love the term "niche." It signifies something unique, different, bold, and most importantly, expensive. But sometimes and most times, niche fragrances aren't supposed to be mass-appealing; they're not exactly intended to make your presence felt from 5 meters away or to grab attention at the club. It's all about the artistic expression, the way they make you feel and the memories they might evoke; the quality of the ingredients, the way they express and reflect your mood, your story, or even your worldview. The exclusivity and uniqueness, the luxury and a touch of mystery... Part of the appeal of niche fragrances is that they're not worn by everyone, which is the opposite of most designer scents. And all of these traits have attracted, especially in recent years, more and more fragrance enthusiasts to the niche side of the industry.

Certainly enough, however, it's not as easy as switching a light switch. You don't just go from easy-to-like, crowd-pleasing, accessible scents to exclusive, more challenging, and more expensive ones just like that. You need to take it step-by-step and not throw yourself in directly to the most niche, weirdest perfumes you can find, because otherwise, you might end up disappointed or disgusted. You need a transition phase, a balance between niche and designer before you get to decide which side you want to join. And Parfums de Marly seems to have perfected this balance.

Layton, Oajan, Pegasus, Haltane... All fragrances that undoubtedly smell high-quality and are masterly done. All fragrances that you can tell they aren't your average $100, attention-grabbing designer, but they also aren't those extremely exotic, gothic, and downright questionable in terms of wearability scents. It's perfectly in the middle, perfectly creating that bridge between two worlds. And I believe that's pretty smart, especially business-wise.

As mentioned, people have started liking niche perfumery, but they still want something that's perfectly wearable and pleasing, and that doesn't steer too far into the niche side. And Parfums de Marly has taken this opportunity to offer exactly what people wanted and make a profitable business out of it. Sure, many have questioned and still question if that's appropriate for a niche house - staying so close to mass-appeal scents and not venturing into "true" niche perfumery. But then again, if there was no niche house to create a bridge between designer and niche like Parfums de Marly does, if there was no "transition phase" or no sort of "in-between," most people probably wouldn't have seen investing into niche perfumery worthwhile. Most would've stuck with designers that they know they work and are easily-accessible. "Why go with niche if they are all so weird smelling, so much harder to acquire, and much more expensive?" That's what they would all say. And so I believe that Parfums de Marly is doing an honorable job at solidifying this bridge and giving people just a taste of niche perfumery, and not a whole bite.

What are your thoughts on Parfums de Marly's position in the industry? Should they stay where they are, or should they go full niche mode?