DRKSHDW

Cozy incense wraps around you like a warm, comforting hug on a chilly autumn evening. A slight smokiness dances in the air, mingling with rich, resinous notes that feel as deep as a philosopher's thoughts on a Sunday morning. The blend of frankincense and labdanum carries a distinct "churchy" aroma, accompanied by a classy vanilla that doesn’t scream "birthday cake" but whispers "sophisticated dessert."

This fragrance doesn’t demand attention; it's more like a shy choirboy who only sings louder if you give him a nudge (or, you know, overspray). As it dries down, a robust sandalwood note emerges, conjuring images of an ancient church with wooden interiors that have seen better days.

Long-lasting and timeless, it evokes the spirit of classic church incense fragrances, reminiscent of Avignon, only sweeter and brighter. It may also call to mind L'air de Rien by Miller Harris, which smells like sweet, vanillic pages of old books wrapped in a cozy blanket of incense-y musk.

It’s the perfect fall fragrance.

My only criticism is the bottle and packaging. The vintage-looking sticker on the bottle reminds me of retro condiment labels, like those used for sugar, mustard, or mayonnaise in the 1960s. I understand what they were going for — a “vintage Americana” vibe — but it doesn’t appeal to me.

A romantic, poetic, and beautiful coniferous scent with aromatic facets. This fragrance was inspired by the forests of Northern California and the Gold Rush era. It’s not a photorealistic depiction of a forest; rather, it retains a “perfumey” quality, where the fir essential oil is clearly discernible alongside prominent rosemary and other aromatics. The petrichor note is more abstract than realistic as well, evoking a sense of a forest pond, an ocean breeze, and slightly stale water in a lagoon. Mesmerizing.

Very "wearable," it leans classic masculine. If you appreciate fragrances like Yatagan by Caron... try El Dorado.

This scent is long-lasting, with medium projection. Classy and sophisticated, vetiver and patchouli add earthy facets, deepening the moodiness.

El Dorado embodies the idea of unattainable riches and the dangers of greed. During the Gold Rush, some people may have traveled through forests on their way to more promising sites in search of gold. I imagine that some never made it out, losing themselves forever in the tangled depths of the wilderness. Without guidance, many could have wandered endlessly, swallowed by the forest's silent embrace, their dreams fading like whispers among the towering pines, lost to history and the wilds they sought to conquer.

This fragrance has a dark, almost haunting quality — like that song by The Cure, where the protagonist finds himself in a dark forest, searching for a mysterious girl who was never really there. Now he’s lost, and it’s too late.

I hear her voice
And start to run
Into the trees
...
Suddenly I stop
But I know it's too late
I'm lost in a forest
All alone
The girl was never there
It's always the same
I'm running towards nothing
Again and again...

~ The Cure — A Forest

It’s described as an "industrial gourmand." This is a grown-up, freaky sweet treat, and I love it!

The fragrance opens with a bang. Styrax is an interesting note that comes off slightly rubbery and plasticky, reminiscent of hot asphalt. The scent evokes the image of a waffle cone ice cream crushed under a rubber boot. There's a hint of that "adult toy" scent, in the best possible way.

The vanilla has an almost cotton candy-like quality, while ylang-ylang and bergamot add fruity facets, with the bergamot introducing a hint of freshness. The ylang-ylang is creamy, with powdery custard notes and a sweet, slightly pungent banana aroma.

I would compare this fragrance to Rosendo Mateu No. 5, Vanagloria, and Babycat; it belongs to the same olfactory family.

Out of the three debut fragrances in the lineup (El Dorado, Incarnate, and Coney Island Baby), this one is the best performer. The drydown transitions into a milky, warm vanilla, reminiscent of melted ice cream. It’s not cloying or heavy, and there’s an airy quality to it. Projection is excellent, and longevity is on point. Tens, tens, tens across the board!

My only criticism is the bottle and packaging. The vintage-looking sticker on the bottle reminds me of retro condiment labels, like those used for sugar, mustard, or mayonnaise in the 1960s. I understand what they were going for — a “vintage Americana” vibe — but it doesn’t appeal to me.

I don't know what to think of it. To be honest, it's a mess. This fragrance is all over the place! It starts off with a soapy, almost harsh opening, followed by a sharp citrus knockout. Five hours in, it shifts dramatically into an ambery leather base with some nutty, powdery notes — probably iris. Yet, I swear I can detect heliotrope in there, too.

The jasmine in this fragrance smells overwhelmingly soapy and plain. It’s not indolic or carnal in any way.

I've noticed three distinct phases in this fragrance, each smelling like a completely different perfume. The opening jasmine phase is soapy, harsh, and unbalanced. The heart “cologne” phase is a sharp leathery bergamot with a dash of powder. Finally, the deep drydown settles into a soft, citrusy vanilla. Overall, it feels disjointed and inconsistent. A mess in a pretty dress.

The projection is OK, lasting for about an hour before fading into a long-lasting skin scent.

Compliments: a friend mentioned that I smelled like an old-fashioned cologne splash from a classic barbershop — nostalgic and reminiscent of a bygone era. They meant it in a positive way.

I was a huge fan of the first two limited editions, Millésime Vanilla and Millésime Tonka, both created by Thierry Wasser (and Jelk, but they smell like typical Wasser creations). They were beautifully balanced and straightforward in their compositions. Delphine Jelk created Iris and Jasmin limited editions. I didn’t like Millésime Iris. To me, it was just a watery vanilla with a powdery opening that felt thin and lackluster. I’m not a fan of Delphine Jelk’s interpretations of Shalimar, including Millésime Jasmin.

There’s a rumor that each Millésime release will represent one of the classic ingredients found in the Guerlinade, the signature accord of the Guerlain fragrance house. The Guerlinade’s core components include:

- Vanilla
- Bergamot
- Tonka bean
- Iris
- Rose
- Jasmine

I’m looking forward to Millésime Rose. However, I’m not as excited about the idea of Millésime Bergamot, especially since Millésime Jasmin already featured an overwhelming dose of bitter bergamot, which I didn’t enjoy.

Beautiful opening.
A fizzy cherry cola note blends with slightly funky oud and leather. The leather has a new-car scent, while the cherry is bright and sugary, like cherry candy or a sweet, sparkling cherry drink — think of it as the "cherry on top" of the opening!

As it dries down, the oud softens and eventually fades away, leaving room for a powdery, lipstick-like rose to take the stage. The drydown bears a strong resemblance to the original La Petite Robe Noire and its flankers, with that classic powdery Guerlain base — dense and dusty (in a good way).

It’s a nice perfume, but is it worth $380? No. That's a tough "pit" to swallow.

The opening was exciting, but the drydown left me craving more — guess you could say the cherry fizzled out.
Performance is average.