FloraMilena

Vulgar, loud, brassy, and inelegant. This one is completely revolting to me, on my skin.

Harshness in the roses, loud and strong but no depth or subtlety. Jagged edges with notes clearly standing out; devoid of all smoothness. Very poorly blended. Patchouli is particularly musty and stale smelling. Lavender is strident and screechy thin. Cheap vanilla is shallow and cloying too. IsoE Super + Ambroxan=Cheap dirty crotch musk skin scent to me.

Given the title of “Lady Vengeance,” I observe the scenario of this particular scent as being a filthy, screaming, confused, delirious, psychotic woman charging down the street and trying to attack you with a butcher knife holding a bunch of wilted orange roses with rotting patchouli leaves woven through her unkempt hair, and dime-store lavender water saturating her sweaty, unwashed clothing.

Mrs. Havisham has met and bonded with Carrie.

I am utterly repulsed in extremis by this.

UME by Keiko Mecheri

On my skin, Ume is magnificent. It has the distinct air of sensually glamorous far eastern elegance and brings to mind Gion Kobu Maiko and Geiko magnificently attired in full performance kimono, dancing at the Kaburenjo theater at Miyako Odori spring festival.

A resplendently golden fruity opening unfolds with streams of zesty bergamot and sparkling mandarin followed by an entrance of succulently rich and deep plum. A glorious showering of luxuriantly spicy osmanthus petals then come showering joyously down across everything, covering it all in a nutty-apricot-tea-like velvet haze. A few delicate wisteria blossom strands flutter back and forth through the intoxicating mist, wafting tantalizing nuances of lilacs and cloves. A subtle splash of jasmine petals and freshly gathered patchouli provide an added element of refined sensuality. The magnificently blended moistly-crisp oakmoss is layed seamlessly atop an impeccably-clean and fresh-woody-cypress astringency which is distinctly of the Japanese hinoki variety, while the deep warmth of mahogany provides a flawlessly rich base. Rather like the sturdily elegant wooden stage boards of the Kaburenjo theater provide the perfect support for the exquisite splendor of the geisha performance above them.

I sense the glittering silk screen byobu backdrop of the Kaburenjo stage, the swishing silks of the ancient style hikizuri kimono, the fluttering long sleeves of the young maiko, the faultless finish of the powdered geisha makeup like early morning sunlight on a white cloud, the jeweled black eyes gazing serenely out above tiny cupid-bowed crimson blood red lips, lacquered raven black hair coiffed elaborately with priceless handcarved jade and silken floral ornaments nestled firmly within, effortlessly assuming positions of intense yet restrained expressiveness. The crowds immersed …watching in rapture…applauding their favorite performers. The scent of joyful fruity flowers, and silk, and woods, and delicate spices entwined throughout.

All this adoration, and usually I do not like chypre. I just love this one. Like the Gion Kobu geisha, famous for their unwavering and impeccable courtesy and grace, their sensual elegance, and their tremendously refined artistic demeanor…. this one has completely entranced me.

Domo arigato gozaimasu and okini to Keiko Mecheri-san.

THE BEAT by Burberry

Dry, spicy, white musky, lightly-earthy, lightly-citric, black tea of low sweetness. Opens with a blast of very dry bergamot, cardamom, and heavy handed dose of biting pink pepper. I get very little sweet mandarin from this one on my skin. Develops further with a rush of unsweetened black tea infused with a hint of earthy iris. Everything is engulfed by a flourish of grainy-lightweight vetiver, white musk, and a sharply lingering cedar finish.

I wouldn’t call it fresh so much as simply dry, bitter, and devoid of any vegetal sweetness throughout development.

I find it prickly and abrasive, attempting to wave the flag of elegance due to the absence of sweetness, and failing rather obviously due to a consistent rasping crudity of grainy bitterness, and an overly dry, harshly-abrasive lack of smoothness that is unrelieved throughout any stage of development.

All in all, it’s rather like a mixture of insect repellent and furniture polish on my skin.

Linda Allard by Ellen Tracy

I usually do not like orientals, or most any heavy scent, but I like this. It’s a very light, sophisticated oriental. Opens with a blast of fresh, dry, roses and a dash of fruity yellow peach. Develops into a spicy brocade of carnation with a weighty dose of tonka beans. A bit of jasmine sweetness well woven into a delicate touch of freesia and cedar complete the refined embroidery, while a clean, elegant sandalwood supports the whole structure.

Tonka beans here are used in vanillic substitution fashion to impart a dry, spicy sweetness. But it’s too dry and not sweet enough for vanilla per se. (Same effect as with Guerlain’s use of Tonka Beans instead of vanilla in the heavy dark purple hitter Insolence EDP.) But no violets to my nose from my skin here. My chemistry tends to abnormally magnify and project anything heavy and/or spicy-resinous-woody so this one wafts clearly up to me.

This would probably be too light for those who traditionally love orientals as a group. However on me, it is just restrained enough NOT to develop into a suffocating miasma of a too heavy base, which occurs too commonly on my skin. Could easily be worn in the daytime as well. Quite elegant…well balanced, nicely done.

Rose Elixir opens and cruises through the central notes with a bucket full of candied strawberry fruit compote. A dash of roses, a bit of fruit juice, a tiny whiff of orange blossom round out the strawberry dessert. I happen to like strawberries which is a good thing. There is no gourmand excess other than this particular event thankfully. The vanilla is reasonably restrained. The ambergris and musk bolster the entire decadently rich fruitiness into a marginally elegant drydown. But really it's all about strawberries. It could easily be a fruity chypre if they just threw in some oakmoss and a tad of patchouli. This actually reminds me a great deal of Miss Dior Cherie EDP 2011 with it's stewed strawberries as well. As fruity florals go, it's an excellent fruity floral. Those who truly enjoy strawberry will love this.