Glitteralex
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Classic Floral Beauty!
Review is for vintage parfum en flacon, likely from the 50s.
No notes are published anywhere, but this is for sure a floral musk powerhouse. There's a hint of spicy, clove-y rose/carnation which indicates a nice dollop of isoeugenol. I get almond/powder from heliotrope, tang from violet, and a creamy sandal vibe with some true musk in the base.
Very beautiful, even in its ancient and likely degraded state.
No notes are published anywhere, but this is for sure a floral musk powerhouse. There's a hint of spicy, clove-y rose/carnation which indicates a nice dollop of isoeugenol. I get almond/powder from heliotrope, tang from violet, and a creamy sandal vibe with some true musk in the base.
Very beautiful, even in its ancient and likely degraded state.
"Creature" by Gilles Cantueal: an Intergalactic Changeling!
Although this is classified as an Oriental Floral, the few notes available for this fragrance, Spice, Wood, Flowers, & Oriental Notes, are for sure incomplete. I will do my best to tease out what I think the individual ingredients may be.
Creature straddles different worlds, all of them beautiful.
A Bergamot top immediately flows into a spicy heart: Nutmeg & Cinnamon coupled with classic resins, likely Myrrh, Benzoin, and Galbanum (I get some nice green here, as I do in "Arsenal" by Cantuel). Also, there is a gourmand quality- something Vanillic and buttery. The heart seems to have some rich exotic thing, maybe Osmanthus, alongside Rose, Jasmine and maybe Lily of the Valley. Surprisingly not in the notes is Oakmoss, and a good deal of it, which gives this scent a 1980s chypre vibe. The wood is almost certainly high quality Sandal, full and creamy. For certain, this creature is a changeling!
* I can find no official notes on this perfume. Nigel Groom's iconic "The Perfume Handbook" lists only its launch date of 1987, and has a blank space where the category should be .It is also absent from the H&R guides.
Creature straddles different worlds, all of them beautiful.
A Bergamot top immediately flows into a spicy heart: Nutmeg & Cinnamon coupled with classic resins, likely Myrrh, Benzoin, and Galbanum (I get some nice green here, as I do in "Arsenal" by Cantuel). Also, there is a gourmand quality- something Vanillic and buttery. The heart seems to have some rich exotic thing, maybe Osmanthus, alongside Rose, Jasmine and maybe Lily of the Valley. Surprisingly not in the notes is Oakmoss, and a good deal of it, which gives this scent a 1980s chypre vibe. The wood is almost certainly high quality Sandal, full and creamy. For certain, this creature is a changeling!
* I can find no official notes on this perfume. Nigel Groom's iconic "The Perfume Handbook" lists only its launch date of 1987, and has a blank space where the category should be .It is also absent from the H&R guides.
Glitteralex 7 years ago
Early Gourmand
One of the early Gourmands, before that was even a term!
Desire for a Woman is a sweet, cheery composition. The construction of the perfume- meaning the structure/balance of the notes and the way they unfold- is excellent. A good dollop of tart Citrus creates a wet, fresh effect and balances sweet White Flowers and bright Pink Roses. This combination approximates the aroma of pink Peonies. The base is primarily Vanilla, with some Woods & Musk thrown in for balance. The Caramel & Licorice are understated, but keep you going back for more. Very potent in concentration. Reminds me a little of Tocade, but more complicated.
Desire for a Woman is a sweet, cheery composition. The construction of the perfume- meaning the structure/balance of the notes and the way they unfold- is excellent. A good dollop of tart Citrus creates a wet, fresh effect and balances sweet White Flowers and bright Pink Roses. This combination approximates the aroma of pink Peonies. The base is primarily Vanilla, with some Woods & Musk thrown in for balance. The Caramel & Licorice are understated, but keep you going back for more. Very potent in concentration. Reminds me a little of Tocade, but more complicated.
Forerunner of a now common style
This is a very unusual perfume, quite unisex, almost masculine. The Salt note in combination with the Bergamot makes it quite dry. The Rose is restrained through the opening, but blossoms in the heart. Although it is not a listed note, I get a good whiff of Lavender, although this could be attributable to a tart, unsweetened Hibiscus. I find not Lily of the Valley whatsoever. This perfume could also be in an "Aquatic Fougere" men's category. Good strength, but weak sillage.
While I do like this scent, I think much more affordable options are currently widely available all over the men's market.
While I do like this scent, I think much more affordable options are currently widely available all over the men's market.
They don't make them like this anymore...
I am lucky enough to have found a vintage EdP of Escada Pour Homme, with no evaporation, viscosity, or discoloration. Hence, I think what I'm sampling is pretty close to what EPH smelled like when it was released.
This is a marvelous scent. Masterfully blended, with a Grand Marnier note over yellow flowers. The top is a little bright, but EPH quickly settles into a luxurious oriental that's heavy on the Geranium/Carnation. The spices are artfully blended and none dominates. The base is a soft, warm Sandal. There are similarities to vintage Aramis, although EPH is more suited to evening wear.
An iconic scent for the mature sophisticate.
This is a marvelous scent. Masterfully blended, with a Grand Marnier note over yellow flowers. The top is a little bright, but EPH quickly settles into a luxurious oriental that's heavy on the Geranium/Carnation. The spices are artfully blended and none dominates. The base is a soft, warm Sandal. There are similarities to vintage Aramis, although EPH is more suited to evening wear.
An iconic scent for the mature sophisticate.
