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The most beautiful flanker since the original, but...
...I probably will never wear it, or at least not own it for a long time! Why? We'll get to that!
Scent:
So how does the next flanker in the Le Mâle universe smell? At least on my skin, the top note is really piercing for a short period! You can distinctly smell the cardamom - almost untreated and in no way sweet - although only for a few minutes.
The heart note is, unlike the top note, almost 1:1 borrowed from the original scent. While the fragrance can now smell fresh in a different way with iris instead of the previous mint: both versions go in this direction in the heart note, but "Le Parfum" has a "clean" note that has crept in, almost like what you might know from some Prada fragrances - and in no way similar to the lipstick-like iris from the Dior Homme fragrances!
It is the base note, however, that makes this fragrance something truly special for me. I have rarely experienced such a pleasant, yet understated and omnipresent vanilla note in a designer fragrance, accompanied by gentle wood accords - at least my nose leads me to conclude sandalwood among others - but never overshadowed.
Sillage & Longevity:
I don't think I'm exaggerating when I say that no fragrance on my skin has performed so outstandingly in both categories since "No. 02 - L'Air du Désert Marocain" - even though the two fragrances are of course in no way comparable. The sillage goes far beyond the usual arm's length, and the scent lingers long in the room after you've left.
In terms of longevity, we're talking about around 12 - 14 hours, although it should be noted that the fragrance itself "only" projects strongly in the first three to four hours. After the eighth hour, "Le Parfum" becomes a softly resonating but closely fitting scent on the skin, which is still perceived well above average.
It should also be mentioned that I have never applied more than two sprays of this fragrance on my skin, and even those were dosed quite sparingly.
Of course, these are just experiences on my skin and can vary from person to person.
Bottle:
If such a bottle had been released as a new product in recent years, it would probably have suffered the same kind of criticism as the gold bar from Paco Rabanne, the crown heads from the same house, or Dolce & Gabbana, or the recently shelf-disfiguring robot!? But as a flanker of the legendary Le Mâle - it fits, even in today's time!?
The color scheme is harmonious, the black and gray divided bottle with its semi-matte, semi-glossy surface subtly tells of the more serious, deeper, and darker tone that this flanker has taken on compared to the original. And I would like to imagine that the shiny golden spray head is meant to reference the defining vanilla in this fragrance!?
Price:
Now on the market for a good year, "Le Mâle Le Parfum" is easily available on relevant discount sites - and at a reasonable price! Aside from extra discounts, vouchers, and any seasonal price reductions, the small 75ml bottle is available for around 40 - 50€. Considering how little perfume you can apply to enjoy this scent, this represents a fantastic price-performance ratio!
Application Area:
"Le Mâle Le Parfum" can be loud, but it never falls into a penetrating scream like one of its predecessors - namely "Ultra Mâle"! If you see this for use in clubs or discotheques, "Le Parfum" is more suitable for a cozy and atmospheric lounge, bar, or a jazz club. If applied cautiously, it could even be used for work, provided the top and heart notes have already - or almost - faded upon entering the office.
Regarding the seasons, "Le Parfum" is generally wearable at any time except for warm summer days, although the application plays a significant role here.
So why would I probably not buy this fragrance? After all, what I've said above sounds excellent, right? Quite simply: Because I already own Armani's "Armani Code Eau de Parfum" from 2021!
And even if some might say that the fragrances are completely different at first glance based on the fragrance note pyramid, I must argue that - at least for my nose - these fragrances have a strong similarity: both in the scent itself and especially in terms of purpose and application!
Both have a quickly fleeting top note - albeit smelling different - which is thus not worth mentioning for me. Both heart notes remind me, in a more or less distant sense, of the original "Le Mâle" scent presence. And even in the base, both play with a wonderful vanilla note, although "Armani Code" differs a bit more strongly here due to the perfectly rounded tonka bean.
If I had to choose a note that most strongly separates these two fragrances: it would probably be the iris!?
So why "Armani Code Eau de Parfum" and not "Le Mâle Le Parfum," some might now ask: because "Armani Code" simply feels more rounded, better composed, and - for lack of a better word - smoother to me! While it may not last as long or project as much as "Le Parfum," it is much easier to wear on days and/or in places where I would be more thoughtful or hesitant before applying "Le Parfum."
Or, to put it another way and again, for lack of a better word: no matter which of the two fragrances I wear, they convey the same feeling from the top to the base note at all times!
Now this is my opinion, which probably wouldn't impress a collector anyway. And so I say: for anyone still looking for an elegant but still sufficiently playful and sweet fragrance for the cooler to biting cold days, "Le Mâle Le Parfum" comes highly recommended. Rarely does one find such a pleasant and long-lasting fragrance in the designer sector that - despite its striking bottle - can effortlessly appear elegant and captivating.
What a great fragrance that - if I didn't own and know the aforementioned alternative - would have definitely found its way into my collection!
Edit from 10.10.2021:
Now I have taken the comments to heart, tested the fragrance once or twice more, and must admit: I have no idea what trick my nose played on me back then!? The difference to "Armani Code Eau de Parfum" is indeed greater than I previously associated.
What can I say! Thank you for the constructive comments! Still the beautiful fragrance with the really very, very good H&S and ... now has found its place next to my other bottles.
Scent:
So how does the next flanker in the Le Mâle universe smell? At least on my skin, the top note is really piercing for a short period! You can distinctly smell the cardamom - almost untreated and in no way sweet - although only for a few minutes.
The heart note is, unlike the top note, almost 1:1 borrowed from the original scent. While the fragrance can now smell fresh in a different way with iris instead of the previous mint: both versions go in this direction in the heart note, but "Le Parfum" has a "clean" note that has crept in, almost like what you might know from some Prada fragrances - and in no way similar to the lipstick-like iris from the Dior Homme fragrances!
It is the base note, however, that makes this fragrance something truly special for me. I have rarely experienced such a pleasant, yet understated and omnipresent vanilla note in a designer fragrance, accompanied by gentle wood accords - at least my nose leads me to conclude sandalwood among others - but never overshadowed.
Sillage & Longevity:
I don't think I'm exaggerating when I say that no fragrance on my skin has performed so outstandingly in both categories since "No. 02 - L'Air du Désert Marocain" - even though the two fragrances are of course in no way comparable. The sillage goes far beyond the usual arm's length, and the scent lingers long in the room after you've left.
In terms of longevity, we're talking about around 12 - 14 hours, although it should be noted that the fragrance itself "only" projects strongly in the first three to four hours. After the eighth hour, "Le Parfum" becomes a softly resonating but closely fitting scent on the skin, which is still perceived well above average.
It should also be mentioned that I have never applied more than two sprays of this fragrance on my skin, and even those were dosed quite sparingly.
Of course, these are just experiences on my skin and can vary from person to person.
Bottle:
If such a bottle had been released as a new product in recent years, it would probably have suffered the same kind of criticism as the gold bar from Paco Rabanne, the crown heads from the same house, or Dolce & Gabbana, or the recently shelf-disfiguring robot!? But as a flanker of the legendary Le Mâle - it fits, even in today's time!?
The color scheme is harmonious, the black and gray divided bottle with its semi-matte, semi-glossy surface subtly tells of the more serious, deeper, and darker tone that this flanker has taken on compared to the original. And I would like to imagine that the shiny golden spray head is meant to reference the defining vanilla in this fragrance!?
Price:
Now on the market for a good year, "Le Mâle Le Parfum" is easily available on relevant discount sites - and at a reasonable price! Aside from extra discounts, vouchers, and any seasonal price reductions, the small 75ml bottle is available for around 40 - 50€. Considering how little perfume you can apply to enjoy this scent, this represents a fantastic price-performance ratio!
Application Area:
"Le Mâle Le Parfum" can be loud, but it never falls into a penetrating scream like one of its predecessors - namely "Ultra Mâle"! If you see this for use in clubs or discotheques, "Le Parfum" is more suitable for a cozy and atmospheric lounge, bar, or a jazz club. If applied cautiously, it could even be used for work, provided the top and heart notes have already - or almost - faded upon entering the office.
Regarding the seasons, "Le Parfum" is generally wearable at any time except for warm summer days, although the application plays a significant role here.
So why would I probably not buy this fragrance? After all, what I've said above sounds excellent, right? Quite simply: Because I already own Armani's "Armani Code Eau de Parfum" from 2021!
And even if some might say that the fragrances are completely different at first glance based on the fragrance note pyramid, I must argue that - at least for my nose - these fragrances have a strong similarity: both in the scent itself and especially in terms of purpose and application!
Both have a quickly fleeting top note - albeit smelling different - which is thus not worth mentioning for me. Both heart notes remind me, in a more or less distant sense, of the original "Le Mâle" scent presence. And even in the base, both play with a wonderful vanilla note, although "Armani Code" differs a bit more strongly here due to the perfectly rounded tonka bean.
If I had to choose a note that most strongly separates these two fragrances: it would probably be the iris!?
So why "Armani Code Eau de Parfum" and not "Le Mâle Le Parfum," some might now ask: because "Armani Code" simply feels more rounded, better composed, and - for lack of a better word - smoother to me! While it may not last as long or project as much as "Le Parfum," it is much easier to wear on days and/or in places where I would be more thoughtful or hesitant before applying "Le Parfum."
Or, to put it another way and again, for lack of a better word: no matter which of the two fragrances I wear, they convey the same feeling from the top to the base note at all times!
Now this is my opinion, which probably wouldn't impress a collector anyway. And so I say: for anyone still looking for an elegant but still sufficiently playful and sweet fragrance for the cooler to biting cold days, "Le Mâle Le Parfum" comes highly recommended. Rarely does one find such a pleasant and long-lasting fragrance in the designer sector that - despite its striking bottle - can effortlessly appear elegant and captivating.
What a great fragrance that - if I didn't own and know the aforementioned alternative - would have definitely found its way into my collection!
Edit from 10.10.2021:
Now I have taken the comments to heart, tested the fragrance once or twice more, and must admit: I have no idea what trick my nose played on me back then!? The difference to "Armani Code Eau de Parfum" is indeed greater than I previously associated.
What can I say! Thank you for the constructive comments! Still the beautiful fragrance with the really very, very good H&S and ... now has found its place next to my other bottles.
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A Soap Dream from Yesterday
Association:
What image, what idea comes to mind when I apply this perfume? I am standing in my grandparents' bathroom washing my hands! Why at my grandparents'? Because in my parents' house, in the houses of my friends and acquaintances, the pure soap has already been replaced. Usually, there are more or less attractive soap dispensers or just the containers from drugstores on the edges of the sinks, dispensing that Nivea- and/or Dove-scented liquid upon request. It smells good - no question - but it has been stripped of its edges and corners! My grandparents, on the other hand, insist on their piece of pure soap, already worn or broken on some sides, with its spicy and quirky character.
Scent:
Does "Prada Amber pour Homme" smell old then? No, not at all! It smells like a piece of soap infused with spices in its purest form. In the opening, the fleeting citrus notes keep it relatively fresh, but the scent transforms in the heart into the soap as we once knew it, and in the base, it finishes slightly sweet, slightly woody, and a bit leathery! The fundamental soap character, however, accompanies the scent throughout its entire lifespan - sometimes more, sometimes less present.
Longevity:
There is nothing to complain about regarding longevity! Although fragrances from Prada generally behave favorably on my skin, "Amber pour Homme" surpasses all its relatives so far and lasts effortlessly for ten hours or more on my skin! Certainly, extremely warm weather also reduces the longevity, but I would generally expect a lifespan of between seven and eight hours.
Sillage:
It is noticed, that much can be said in advance! It projects really well in the first one to two hours, but from the third hour on, it becomes relatively close to the skin and only noticeable to those nearby. And, unlike "Prada L'Homme," "Amber pour Homme" is actually perceived as a perfume - while "L'Homme" often makes others think that someone is wearing "just" freshly washed laundry. Perhaps precisely because this type of soap character is used less and less and perceived as such? Who knows...!?
Bottle:
The fact that the fragrance - unlike L'Homme - did not receive quite the media attention can likely be attributed to its release date as well as the bottle!? Simple, mostly transparent, with a metal plate listing the fragrance notes and an asymmetrically placed spray head, it is probably the color of the fragrance - lavender - that makes some think it is a rather feminine scent. Personally, I like the bottle, as it tries to convey the "simplicity" of the fragrance. If there were something to criticize, it would probably be the cap of the spray head: neither clicking into place nor magnetically adhering, it simply slides onto the sprayer - where it sits securely to protect the fragrance.
Price:
Listed at €75 for 50 ml on the Prada website (€100 for 100 ml), the fragrance can already be found on relevant discount sites for around €40 (50 ml) or €65 (100 ml), as it has been on the market for about fifteen years now. A more than fair price for such a long-lasting scent. Would I buy it at the manufacturer's price? Definitely!
Usage Opportunities (or Where and When?):
Is there a time or place where "Amber pour Homme" would be out of place? Not really! Limited by temperatures, this fragrance is excellent for both warm and cold weather. At work as well as in private time, it conveys a well-groomed and "clean" impression. However, if someone wants to stand out and make a statement - e.g., in a club or similar - they should steer clear of this fragrance! It is neither intended for that, nor was it conceived with that in mind, and thankfully, the field of alternatives is vast.
Note:
Even though there is a female counterpart - merely - "Prada Amber" from 2004 alongside "Amber pour Homme," I cannot help but note that both fragrances could definitely pass as unisex to my nose.
What image, what idea comes to mind when I apply this perfume? I am standing in my grandparents' bathroom washing my hands! Why at my grandparents'? Because in my parents' house, in the houses of my friends and acquaintances, the pure soap has already been replaced. Usually, there are more or less attractive soap dispensers or just the containers from drugstores on the edges of the sinks, dispensing that Nivea- and/or Dove-scented liquid upon request. It smells good - no question - but it has been stripped of its edges and corners! My grandparents, on the other hand, insist on their piece of pure soap, already worn or broken on some sides, with its spicy and quirky character.
Scent:
Does "Prada Amber pour Homme" smell old then? No, not at all! It smells like a piece of soap infused with spices in its purest form. In the opening, the fleeting citrus notes keep it relatively fresh, but the scent transforms in the heart into the soap as we once knew it, and in the base, it finishes slightly sweet, slightly woody, and a bit leathery! The fundamental soap character, however, accompanies the scent throughout its entire lifespan - sometimes more, sometimes less present.
Longevity:
There is nothing to complain about regarding longevity! Although fragrances from Prada generally behave favorably on my skin, "Amber pour Homme" surpasses all its relatives so far and lasts effortlessly for ten hours or more on my skin! Certainly, extremely warm weather also reduces the longevity, but I would generally expect a lifespan of between seven and eight hours.
Sillage:
It is noticed, that much can be said in advance! It projects really well in the first one to two hours, but from the third hour on, it becomes relatively close to the skin and only noticeable to those nearby. And, unlike "Prada L'Homme," "Amber pour Homme" is actually perceived as a perfume - while "L'Homme" often makes others think that someone is wearing "just" freshly washed laundry. Perhaps precisely because this type of soap character is used less and less and perceived as such? Who knows...!?
Bottle:
The fact that the fragrance - unlike L'Homme - did not receive quite the media attention can likely be attributed to its release date as well as the bottle!? Simple, mostly transparent, with a metal plate listing the fragrance notes and an asymmetrically placed spray head, it is probably the color of the fragrance - lavender - that makes some think it is a rather feminine scent. Personally, I like the bottle, as it tries to convey the "simplicity" of the fragrance. If there were something to criticize, it would probably be the cap of the spray head: neither clicking into place nor magnetically adhering, it simply slides onto the sprayer - where it sits securely to protect the fragrance.
Price:
Listed at €75 for 50 ml on the Prada website (€100 for 100 ml), the fragrance can already be found on relevant discount sites for around €40 (50 ml) or €65 (100 ml), as it has been on the market for about fifteen years now. A more than fair price for such a long-lasting scent. Would I buy it at the manufacturer's price? Definitely!
Usage Opportunities (or Where and When?):
Is there a time or place where "Amber pour Homme" would be out of place? Not really! Limited by temperatures, this fragrance is excellent for both warm and cold weather. At work as well as in private time, it conveys a well-groomed and "clean" impression. However, if someone wants to stand out and make a statement - e.g., in a club or similar - they should steer clear of this fragrance! It is neither intended for that, nor was it conceived with that in mind, and thankfully, the field of alternatives is vast.
Note:
Even though there is a female counterpart - merely - "Prada Amber" from 2004 alongside "Amber pour Homme," I cannot help but note that both fragrances could definitely pass as unisex to my nose.
6 Comments
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This is how an "Intense" should be!
Although a bit sober for such a beautiful fragrance as "Boss Bottled Intense," I would like to base my review on the following points: Intense, Sillage & Longevity, Versatility, Uniqueness, Bottle, and Price. However, I would like to start with some more or less personal remarks that, in my opinion, should not be missing in a review of "Boss Bottled Intense"!
Note 1:
Probably every sentence I write here can and should be projected 1:1 onto the "old" versions of the original "Boss Bottled" from 1998. Even though I still consider the current version to be a beautiful fragrance, it differs immensely in a direct comparison to the original product! Reformulations, batches...who knows!?
Note 2:
Even though the comparison is often made online and in forums, I do not consider "Layton" by "Parfums de Marly" to be a better version of this fragrance. Please do not misunderstand, I think "Layton" is a wonderful fragrance, but in my humble opinion, there is not enough similarity between the two to consider them part of a common development chain. Yes, they have a few similarities, but for me, just not enough.
Note 3:
Since there is also an Eau de Toilette of "Boss Bottled Intense" that is a year younger - whether this is still available, I cannot say - it is particularly important to pay attention to the correct concentration indication when purchasing! A more than suboptimal naming by Hugo Boss!
Note 4:
Everything that follows should always be taken with a grain of caution, as this is one of those fragrances that I will likely always view through the well-known rose-colored glasses.
But enough of all the remarks...let's get started!
Intense:
Why do I want to elaborate so explicitly on the name extension "Intense"? Because in this case, it truly delivers what it promises to the discerning buyer. This Eau de Parfum is not an evolution, contains no surprising fragrance components or spontaneous developments within the notes! No! It is - plain and simple - a stronger version of "Boss Bottled"! Nice...
Sillage and Longevity:
Here too, I want to draw a comparison to the current EDT "Boss Bottled," which, in my opinion, has become less potent over the years. The EDT lasts on me for just three to four hours and quickly becomes skin-close, while "Boss Bottled Intense" actually accompanies me for mostly eight hours plus. Of course, it does not project like crazy, but for the first one to two hours, the fragrance seems to be well and strongly perceivable by those around me.
Versatility:
Even though I believe that every fragrance - when applied correctly and appropriately - should work at any time and place, this topic seems to interest many. Personally, I consider "Boss Bottled Intense" to be a fragrance that can be worn throughout the entire year. However, if someone finds the scent a bit too sweet in the height of summer, they could easily revert to the Eau de Toilette, which comes across as a bit fresher and lighter. Good for work, no colleague should be bothered by this scent, especially since the DNA has likely been prevalent in office environments for several decades.
Uniqueness:
If "Boss Bottled Intense" should not be anything, then it is unique or special! As "only" an intensified version of the original success from Hugo Boss, this fragrance has probably come under the nose of most of us at some point. On the other hand: In times when new fragrances seem to flood the market weekly, a certain stability does not seem so wrong!?
Many of the fragrances, especially the flankers, will likely not exist in a few years - and if they do, then only overpriced at online auctions or the like - "Boss Bottled," on the other hand, will probably accompany us in some form for the next few decades...be it as EDT, EDP, Intense, or whatever...
Bottle:
What can one really say about the bottle!? Everyone should be familiar with the shape and design, as it has been omnipresent for more than two decades - including the differently colored flankers - on the fragrance shelves.
Criticism then? No, rather a small note! Even though this may slightly increase the price, I think a slightly more premium cap with a magnetic closure would suit the simple yet beautiful bottle well! But that is probably just nitpicking...
Price:
In my opinion, there is no way to approach this topic negatively. Even though I have not seen it - unlike the EDT and other flankers in the line - in any perfumery or other store, the prices being asked for "Boss Bottled Intense" are more than reasonable! Now on my third bottle, I have never had to pay more than about €35 for 100ml (without guarantee).
Note 1:
Probably every sentence I write here can and should be projected 1:1 onto the "old" versions of the original "Boss Bottled" from 1998. Even though I still consider the current version to be a beautiful fragrance, it differs immensely in a direct comparison to the original product! Reformulations, batches...who knows!?
Note 2:
Even though the comparison is often made online and in forums, I do not consider "Layton" by "Parfums de Marly" to be a better version of this fragrance. Please do not misunderstand, I think "Layton" is a wonderful fragrance, but in my humble opinion, there is not enough similarity between the two to consider them part of a common development chain. Yes, they have a few similarities, but for me, just not enough.
Note 3:
Since there is also an Eau de Toilette of "Boss Bottled Intense" that is a year younger - whether this is still available, I cannot say - it is particularly important to pay attention to the correct concentration indication when purchasing! A more than suboptimal naming by Hugo Boss!
Note 4:
Everything that follows should always be taken with a grain of caution, as this is one of those fragrances that I will likely always view through the well-known rose-colored glasses.
But enough of all the remarks...let's get started!
Intense:
Why do I want to elaborate so explicitly on the name extension "Intense"? Because in this case, it truly delivers what it promises to the discerning buyer. This Eau de Parfum is not an evolution, contains no surprising fragrance components or spontaneous developments within the notes! No! It is - plain and simple - a stronger version of "Boss Bottled"! Nice...
Sillage and Longevity:
Here too, I want to draw a comparison to the current EDT "Boss Bottled," which, in my opinion, has become less potent over the years. The EDT lasts on me for just three to four hours and quickly becomes skin-close, while "Boss Bottled Intense" actually accompanies me for mostly eight hours plus. Of course, it does not project like crazy, but for the first one to two hours, the fragrance seems to be well and strongly perceivable by those around me.
Versatility:
Even though I believe that every fragrance - when applied correctly and appropriately - should work at any time and place, this topic seems to interest many. Personally, I consider "Boss Bottled Intense" to be a fragrance that can be worn throughout the entire year. However, if someone finds the scent a bit too sweet in the height of summer, they could easily revert to the Eau de Toilette, which comes across as a bit fresher and lighter. Good for work, no colleague should be bothered by this scent, especially since the DNA has likely been prevalent in office environments for several decades.
Uniqueness:
If "Boss Bottled Intense" should not be anything, then it is unique or special! As "only" an intensified version of the original success from Hugo Boss, this fragrance has probably come under the nose of most of us at some point. On the other hand: In times when new fragrances seem to flood the market weekly, a certain stability does not seem so wrong!?
Many of the fragrances, especially the flankers, will likely not exist in a few years - and if they do, then only overpriced at online auctions or the like - "Boss Bottled," on the other hand, will probably accompany us in some form for the next few decades...be it as EDT, EDP, Intense, or whatever...
Bottle:
What can one really say about the bottle!? Everyone should be familiar with the shape and design, as it has been omnipresent for more than two decades - including the differently colored flankers - on the fragrance shelves.
Criticism then? No, rather a small note! Even though this may slightly increase the price, I think a slightly more premium cap with a magnetic closure would suit the simple yet beautiful bottle well! But that is probably just nitpicking...
Price:
In my opinion, there is no way to approach this topic negatively. Even though I have not seen it - unlike the EDT and other flankers in the line - in any perfumery or other store, the prices being asked for "Boss Bottled Intense" are more than reasonable! Now on my third bottle, I have never had to pay more than about €35 for 100ml (without guarantee).
1 Comment
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Carried by Summer Winds
Intention and Concept:
"I need a fragrance that smells just as 'natural' citrusy in its top note as the Eau de Toilette, but at the same time removes the mineral notes! Because those who do not like the EdT due to these notes will not buy the Eau de Parfum anyway. It should also be generally lighter, airier, and especially work better in warmer times and furthermore..."
So or something similar might have been the initial thoughts of master perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena when he began with the concept for creating "Terre d'Hermès Eau Très Fraîche".
However, whether this is an attempt at a meaningful expansion of the own (masterful) fragrance line "Terre de Hermès" - a kind of wish and heartfelt concern - or an attempt by a house to squeeze as much money as possible from a still ongoing success: as an outsider, one can only speculate, although the camps among perfume enthusiasts seem equally divided on this...
Relationship and Fragrance:
Let’s clarify right away how close or far the relationship is to its predecessors - the EdT from 2006 and the EdP from 2009.
It should be said: Yes, in my humble opinion, "Eau Très Fraîche" is clearly a fragrance that can and should be assigned to the "Terre de Hermès" family without hiding! Why? We will get to that shortly...!
While it lacks the characteristic notes of vetiver and flintstone - and every lover of the two predecessors will wrinkle their nose if they expected just a weaker but still identically smelling version - it retains the woody touch, particularly smelling of cedar, in the base note.
The heart note, on the other hand, is dominated by a wonderful - if one likes the green touch - rose geranium, which also extends into the base note for a while and gives the fragrance its consistently fresh character.
The top note itself, however, differs only minimally from its two predecessors: the orange and citrus notes are still wonderfully "natural", but in "Eau Très Fraîche" they appear less sharp-edged and indeed more inviting and friendly. A person calculating customer behavior would suspect that the muted top note is less off-putting to the average consumer and rather encourages a spontaneous purchase...
The keyword for why this is a member of "Terre de Hermès" has already been mentioned: "natural".
Although the actual amount of natural and synthetic ingredients is of course a secret, it has always been generally accepted for the EdT and EdP that their employed notes at least smell 'natural'. A formula that "Eau Très Fraîche" adheres to exemplary!
As a comparison, the smell of a real orange can be well used against the industrial variant found in juices, etc.
Sillage and Longevity:
As can already be suspected, both sillage and longevity are below the level of EdT and EdP. Which need not be a bad thing in itself!
Clearly constructed for summer or warmer days and regions, the overall construction of this fragrance appears broader, friendlier, and brighter. The top note lasts surprisingly long for a citrus fragrance, around 20 to 30 minutes, transforming into a green freshness lasting several hours (about 1 1/2 to 2) and ultimately ending in a woody-spicy base lasting again around 2 hours.
The sillage, however, is only really present in the top note. While the rose geranium in the heart leaves a narrow but pleasant scent trail, "Eau Très Fraîche" retreats in the base to a very close body scent.
Application:
Its full potential is indeed unleashed by "Eau Très Fraîche" in warm or hot weather. Those days when one might almost feel guilty in the morning - towards, for example, colleagues - for wearing a fragrance at all. But also for all those who find the mineral notes in the EdT or EdP disturbing, this could be a satisfying option. Either way, "Eau Très Fraîche" is an interesting summer substitute for the - apparently - now exclusively appearing "blue" fragrances.
Bottle:
Regarding the bottle, not much more needs to be said if one is familiar with the containers of the "Terre de Hermès" line. The screw cap works well and is sturdy, the spray head distributes surprisingly well, and with its white cap and partially white lettering, the bottle also manages to appear "brighter" and "fresher".
Only one point could be deducted for handling the bottle! Because - and this also applies to the entire "Terre de Hermès" family - instead of growing a bit in depth for the sake of handling with larger contents, the bottles by Jean-Claude Ellena only become taller and wider! With "Eau Très Fraîche", which apparently does not come in sizes smaller than 75 ml, this is already a moderately difficult act of contortion for people with normally sized or small hands.
Price:
Here, "Eau Très Fraîche" is priced in a similar category as most other summer fragrances, although with "Hermès" you get a full 75 ml instead of the usual 50 ml. However, if one sprays more than the usual amount to achieve a similar longevity as, for example, "Dior Sauvage", this price advantage may quickly become irrelevant.
What a buyer might be spared, however, is the potential annoyance of stumbling upon a nearly identically smelling but significantly cheaper fragrance, as there are likely not many or any in the case of "Eau Très Fraîche". Nevertheless, every buyer should be aware of the usual markup for names like "Hermès", "Dior", or "Chanel".
Conclusion:
With "Eau Très Fraîche" from "Hermès", we have a pleasant fragrance that is designed more for the warmer days of the year and stands out pleasantly from the mass of "blue" and aquatic scents.
However, if a fan of the predecessors expects something similarly fundamentally transformative for the fragrance industry, disappointment is almost inevitable.
"I need a fragrance that smells just as 'natural' citrusy in its top note as the Eau de Toilette, but at the same time removes the mineral notes! Because those who do not like the EdT due to these notes will not buy the Eau de Parfum anyway. It should also be generally lighter, airier, and especially work better in warmer times and furthermore..."
So or something similar might have been the initial thoughts of master perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena when he began with the concept for creating "Terre d'Hermès Eau Très Fraîche".
However, whether this is an attempt at a meaningful expansion of the own (masterful) fragrance line "Terre de Hermès" - a kind of wish and heartfelt concern - or an attempt by a house to squeeze as much money as possible from a still ongoing success: as an outsider, one can only speculate, although the camps among perfume enthusiasts seem equally divided on this...
Relationship and Fragrance:
Let’s clarify right away how close or far the relationship is to its predecessors - the EdT from 2006 and the EdP from 2009.
It should be said: Yes, in my humble opinion, "Eau Très Fraîche" is clearly a fragrance that can and should be assigned to the "Terre de Hermès" family without hiding! Why? We will get to that shortly...!
While it lacks the characteristic notes of vetiver and flintstone - and every lover of the two predecessors will wrinkle their nose if they expected just a weaker but still identically smelling version - it retains the woody touch, particularly smelling of cedar, in the base note.
The heart note, on the other hand, is dominated by a wonderful - if one likes the green touch - rose geranium, which also extends into the base note for a while and gives the fragrance its consistently fresh character.
The top note itself, however, differs only minimally from its two predecessors: the orange and citrus notes are still wonderfully "natural", but in "Eau Très Fraîche" they appear less sharp-edged and indeed more inviting and friendly. A person calculating customer behavior would suspect that the muted top note is less off-putting to the average consumer and rather encourages a spontaneous purchase...
The keyword for why this is a member of "Terre de Hermès" has already been mentioned: "natural".
Although the actual amount of natural and synthetic ingredients is of course a secret, it has always been generally accepted for the EdT and EdP that their employed notes at least smell 'natural'. A formula that "Eau Très Fraîche" adheres to exemplary!
As a comparison, the smell of a real orange can be well used against the industrial variant found in juices, etc.
Sillage and Longevity:
As can already be suspected, both sillage and longevity are below the level of EdT and EdP. Which need not be a bad thing in itself!
Clearly constructed for summer or warmer days and regions, the overall construction of this fragrance appears broader, friendlier, and brighter. The top note lasts surprisingly long for a citrus fragrance, around 20 to 30 minutes, transforming into a green freshness lasting several hours (about 1 1/2 to 2) and ultimately ending in a woody-spicy base lasting again around 2 hours.
The sillage, however, is only really present in the top note. While the rose geranium in the heart leaves a narrow but pleasant scent trail, "Eau Très Fraîche" retreats in the base to a very close body scent.
Application:
Its full potential is indeed unleashed by "Eau Très Fraîche" in warm or hot weather. Those days when one might almost feel guilty in the morning - towards, for example, colleagues - for wearing a fragrance at all. But also for all those who find the mineral notes in the EdT or EdP disturbing, this could be a satisfying option. Either way, "Eau Très Fraîche" is an interesting summer substitute for the - apparently - now exclusively appearing "blue" fragrances.
Bottle:
Regarding the bottle, not much more needs to be said if one is familiar with the containers of the "Terre de Hermès" line. The screw cap works well and is sturdy, the spray head distributes surprisingly well, and with its white cap and partially white lettering, the bottle also manages to appear "brighter" and "fresher".
Only one point could be deducted for handling the bottle! Because - and this also applies to the entire "Terre de Hermès" family - instead of growing a bit in depth for the sake of handling with larger contents, the bottles by Jean-Claude Ellena only become taller and wider! With "Eau Très Fraîche", which apparently does not come in sizes smaller than 75 ml, this is already a moderately difficult act of contortion for people with normally sized or small hands.
Price:
Here, "Eau Très Fraîche" is priced in a similar category as most other summer fragrances, although with "Hermès" you get a full 75 ml instead of the usual 50 ml. However, if one sprays more than the usual amount to achieve a similar longevity as, for example, "Dior Sauvage", this price advantage may quickly become irrelevant.
What a buyer might be spared, however, is the potential annoyance of stumbling upon a nearly identically smelling but significantly cheaper fragrance, as there are likely not many or any in the case of "Eau Très Fraîche". Nevertheless, every buyer should be aware of the usual markup for names like "Hermès", "Dior", or "Chanel".
Conclusion:
With "Eau Très Fraîche" from "Hermès", we have a pleasant fragrance that is designed more for the warmer days of the year and stands out pleasantly from the mass of "blue" and aquatic scents.
However, if a fan of the predecessors expects something similarly fundamentally transformative for the fragrance industry, disappointment is almost inevitable.
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Translated · Show original
The Night Shadow
Intention:
Noir...the dark, the black, and the night...depending on the current mood and situation, perhaps even the abyss, are words often used for fragrances with this label.
Certainly not fundamentally wrong for this work from the house of Tom Ford, but it would not do justice to the actual depth - which does not reach far or is exactly fitting. For when I think of truly "dark" fragrances, I recall - also from Tom Ford - Noir de Noir or the Encre series (not all) from Lalique. Yes, the bottle may suggest it, but "Noir" is bright enough for everyday use, the small, shadow-casting light in the night space.
Relatives:
Let's clarify upfront: No, "Noir" bears almost no resemblance to any of its namesakes from the "Noir" line! While "Noir Extreme" is a sweet gourmand and "Noir Anthracite" has a more woody touch, only the "Noir EdT" somewhat resembles the original EdP. Unlike the EdP, the EdT reduces its floral notes and instead focuses on citrus and minty components. An equivalent fragrance with a relevant financial saving compared to an Eau de Parfum? No! As the bottle suggests, it is a fresher variant for those who find the EdP "too much".
Scent:
But what does "Noir" smell like? Well, I must say that I have never experienced such a wide range of perceptions of "Noir" among testers in my surroundings! From "slightly sweet" to "I like the leather scent" to "smells somewhat old-fashioned," I heard almost everything, which is why I will stick to my own perception here.
While in the top note, the violet particularly reigns with a splash of freshness from the bergamot used, the base is created from the usual combination of components like amber, vanilla, and patchouli typical for Tom Ford fragrances, forming a pleasantly sweet yet rough base - here, especially the vetiver, leather, and styrax help.
The violet can particularly give younger noses the feeling of the tooth of time, while the base often used by this house may not necessarily bring leaps of joy to fans and enthusiasts.
It is the heart note that makes this fragrance so special for me!
The rose geranium, iris, and Bulgarian rose are what create the largest and longest-lasting accord in this fragrance creation for my nose, especially since it sneaks into the base note for a fraction of its lifespan.
If I were forced to describe "Tom Ford Noir" in as few words as possible, they would be: "Noble" and "Floral"!
Sillage and Longevity:
Shall we keep it short!? Sillage and longevity are good! Only good? Yes, indeed "only" good! Within its fragrance line, "Noir Extreme" has the longest longevity on my skin. Nevertheless, "Noir" performs significantly better than the EdT and "Noir Anthracite"!
While the EdT can radiate stronger in the top note precisely because of the citrus components, it does falter in the heart note compared to the EdP!
And the "Anthracite"? Let's leave it at that, okay!? A nice fragrance, but unfortunately does not stand out in any category on my skin.
Summarized in time indications, we are talking about approximately 15 minutes for the top note, about 2.5 to 3.5 hours for the heart note, and another approximately 4 hours in the base - totaling a pleasure of around 7 to 8 hours.
Usage:
When it comes to usage possibilities, one should not be deceived by the bottle. Also suitable for work, "Noir" has yet to draw any negative attention. However, it does stand out wonderfully in general! Modern enough for today's time, this fragrance still retains enough characteristics from the last decades and manages to look through the - seemingly soon to be only appearing - aquatic and "blue" fragrances!
For summer or warmer months, it should be noted: no problem! At least if you reduce the number of sprays, as the heart note with its floral components does react somewhat differently to temperature and sweaty skin. Not unpleasant or bad, just a little different!
Bottle:
Opinions on the bottle may vary! Even if the fragrance is not as dark as initially mentioned, the bottle with its dark glass and cap excellently sells this intention. The labeling - both on the bottle and in initials on the cap - is clearly visible and readable, yet does not disturb the overall picture.
The spray head does its job - there is hardly more to mention. It does what it is supposed to do, but is miles behind those of the Dior or Chanel brands.
And regarding the cap, one can hold whatever opinion one wishes: while the bottle comes across as valuable and sturdy, the ribbed cap is made of the simplest plastic and suggests its lack of value through its light weight. However, how much one wants to evaluate a fragrance based on its bottle is something everyone must decide for themselves. There could certainly have been more here, which would have directly impacted the price.
Price:
In terms of price, "Noir" now ranks in an acceptable category for designer fragrances. Represented in the in-house signature line and with nearly eight years under its belt, "Noir" may still cost around 80 to 90 € for 50 ml in physical stores, but due to its "age," it can be snagged for much less money at an online discounter. Without warranty but still for orientation: I was able to acquire my second bottle for 54.90 € including shipping!
A special thanks:
Even though she will probably never read this, I would still like to express a small thank you to the knowledgeable saleswoman (who is now likely enjoying her well-deserved retirement) who recommended this fragrance to me. Amusingly standing at the checkout with "Habit Rouge" by Guerlain as a gift - it was shortly after store opening on a dreary day with already little foot traffic - she quickly went to the back to fetch a tester of "Tom Ford Noir." She explained to me that the fragrance had not sold well so far, which is why it was now languishing in the stockroom and should make room for another fragrance on the shelf.
Thus, I left the store still with "Habit Rouge" as a gift under my arm and a half-full 50ml tester bottle of "Noir" for a symbolic price of a few euros.
Noir...the dark, the black, and the night...depending on the current mood and situation, perhaps even the abyss, are words often used for fragrances with this label.
Certainly not fundamentally wrong for this work from the house of Tom Ford, but it would not do justice to the actual depth - which does not reach far or is exactly fitting. For when I think of truly "dark" fragrances, I recall - also from Tom Ford - Noir de Noir or the Encre series (not all) from Lalique. Yes, the bottle may suggest it, but "Noir" is bright enough for everyday use, the small, shadow-casting light in the night space.
Relatives:
Let's clarify upfront: No, "Noir" bears almost no resemblance to any of its namesakes from the "Noir" line! While "Noir Extreme" is a sweet gourmand and "Noir Anthracite" has a more woody touch, only the "Noir EdT" somewhat resembles the original EdP. Unlike the EdP, the EdT reduces its floral notes and instead focuses on citrus and minty components. An equivalent fragrance with a relevant financial saving compared to an Eau de Parfum? No! As the bottle suggests, it is a fresher variant for those who find the EdP "too much".
Scent:
But what does "Noir" smell like? Well, I must say that I have never experienced such a wide range of perceptions of "Noir" among testers in my surroundings! From "slightly sweet" to "I like the leather scent" to "smells somewhat old-fashioned," I heard almost everything, which is why I will stick to my own perception here.
While in the top note, the violet particularly reigns with a splash of freshness from the bergamot used, the base is created from the usual combination of components like amber, vanilla, and patchouli typical for Tom Ford fragrances, forming a pleasantly sweet yet rough base - here, especially the vetiver, leather, and styrax help.
The violet can particularly give younger noses the feeling of the tooth of time, while the base often used by this house may not necessarily bring leaps of joy to fans and enthusiasts.
It is the heart note that makes this fragrance so special for me!
The rose geranium, iris, and Bulgarian rose are what create the largest and longest-lasting accord in this fragrance creation for my nose, especially since it sneaks into the base note for a fraction of its lifespan.
If I were forced to describe "Tom Ford Noir" in as few words as possible, they would be: "Noble" and "Floral"!
Sillage and Longevity:
Shall we keep it short!? Sillage and longevity are good! Only good? Yes, indeed "only" good! Within its fragrance line, "Noir Extreme" has the longest longevity on my skin. Nevertheless, "Noir" performs significantly better than the EdT and "Noir Anthracite"!
While the EdT can radiate stronger in the top note precisely because of the citrus components, it does falter in the heart note compared to the EdP!
And the "Anthracite"? Let's leave it at that, okay!? A nice fragrance, but unfortunately does not stand out in any category on my skin.
Summarized in time indications, we are talking about approximately 15 minutes for the top note, about 2.5 to 3.5 hours for the heart note, and another approximately 4 hours in the base - totaling a pleasure of around 7 to 8 hours.
Usage:
When it comes to usage possibilities, one should not be deceived by the bottle. Also suitable for work, "Noir" has yet to draw any negative attention. However, it does stand out wonderfully in general! Modern enough for today's time, this fragrance still retains enough characteristics from the last decades and manages to look through the - seemingly soon to be only appearing - aquatic and "blue" fragrances!
For summer or warmer months, it should be noted: no problem! At least if you reduce the number of sprays, as the heart note with its floral components does react somewhat differently to temperature and sweaty skin. Not unpleasant or bad, just a little different!
Bottle:
Opinions on the bottle may vary! Even if the fragrance is not as dark as initially mentioned, the bottle with its dark glass and cap excellently sells this intention. The labeling - both on the bottle and in initials on the cap - is clearly visible and readable, yet does not disturb the overall picture.
The spray head does its job - there is hardly more to mention. It does what it is supposed to do, but is miles behind those of the Dior or Chanel brands.
And regarding the cap, one can hold whatever opinion one wishes: while the bottle comes across as valuable and sturdy, the ribbed cap is made of the simplest plastic and suggests its lack of value through its light weight. However, how much one wants to evaluate a fragrance based on its bottle is something everyone must decide for themselves. There could certainly have been more here, which would have directly impacted the price.
Price:
In terms of price, "Noir" now ranks in an acceptable category for designer fragrances. Represented in the in-house signature line and with nearly eight years under its belt, "Noir" may still cost around 80 to 90 € for 50 ml in physical stores, but due to its "age," it can be snagged for much less money at an online discounter. Without warranty but still for orientation: I was able to acquire my second bottle for 54.90 € including shipping!
A special thanks:
Even though she will probably never read this, I would still like to express a small thank you to the knowledgeable saleswoman (who is now likely enjoying her well-deserved retirement) who recommended this fragrance to me. Amusingly standing at the checkout with "Habit Rouge" by Guerlain as a gift - it was shortly after store opening on a dreary day with already little foot traffic - she quickly went to the back to fetch a tester of "Tom Ford Noir." She explained to me that the fragrance had not sold well so far, which is why it was now languishing in the stockroom and should make room for another fragrance on the shelf.
Thus, I left the store still with "Habit Rouge" as a gift under my arm and a half-full 50ml tester bottle of "Noir" for a symbolic price of a few euros.
5 Comments
