Kurai

Kurai

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Kurai 6 days ago 1
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
7
Scent
Study piece
This is where one's note picking skills will be put to the test. Bogue 10's complexity is through the roof and after two days of wearing it feels like I have only managed to grasp a few of the facets that this work has to offer.

While the top notes are leafy and zesty, the evolution goes through spicy, soapy, musky and resinous phases. With each sniff, another element and another contrast seems to occur. Creamy fig, fresh lily-of-the-valley, minty geranium, warm resin, sour civet. They have all passed by at some point, while the clarity of these notes seems vary as well. Blending in and out of focus. The core of the fragrance is, I would say, a floral blend with tagetes, immortelle and a good amount of civet underneath. Slightly retro-masculine.

In the end, there is a certain harmonious feel to it despite the complexity. Maybe that is the most impressive part of it all. Personally I consider this more of a study piece than a wearable fragrance, though, and that means I will probably get tired of it after a few wears. In fact, after these two wears I think I have had enough already.
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Kurai 12 days ago 1
8
Sillage
4
Longevity
7
Scent
A little shake-up
Whenever I feel like this perfume testing hobby is getting into a rut, it helps to get my nose on something from Prin's Strangers Parfumerie label. Today's wear, A Sorta Fairytale in Hyde Park is the playful shake-up I needed to get back into the game.

Upon the first spray the room is filled with florals. White and yellow in color. From up close I get some narcissus, which is stripped of its rougher sides. The peachy sweetness is a bit much at first, but settles just as fast as the big floral opening does. A vanilla-powdery base with a pollen-rich edge is all that's left pretty soon.

This is a clear reference to big florientals of the nineties but it comes with a lighthearted mood and a friendly smile. Moderately suitable as a wearable perfume and above all a fun intermezzo.
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Kurai 2 months ago 3
8
Sillage
8
Longevity
7
Scent
Bois Solaire
The note list mentions both pistachio and a solar note. Don't be mistaken, though. This is not another "Brazilian Crush Cheirosa '62 | Sol de Janeiro" or some lame sunblock simulator. Jux goes its own way. I'm not even sure I would call this a sunny perfume.

The start is really uplifting and yes sunny, though. Clearly there is a good amount of salicylates brightening the mood here. What follows is a warm, slightly terpenic type of woods. There is this smoky-amber bit hidden in the background at first but it gains in intensity over time. This is where the connection with the only other Liza Witte release "Amalgam A | Liza Witte" becomes obvious. The smoky-ambery accord that forms the heart of Amalgam A returns as a small but clever detail in Jux. With that smoky part a bit of spice comes along as well.

Over time the mood darkens quite a bit. In the end the profile would just as well fit in a fall-winter setting, I think. The way the scent develops over time is fascinating, but I must say I preferred the uplifting character in the opening stage over the later slightly masculine appearance. So that leaves me with a bit of an anti-climax. Others who can appreciate spicy-smoky facets might very well enjoy this, though.
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Kurai 2 months ago 4
7
Sillage
6
Longevity
7
Scent
Hand rolled in Amsterdam
Liza Witte's fragrances come in a cardboard wrapper. Hand made in every way, which is nice. It adds a bit of indie flavour. Plus it is a Dutch house that combines design with body care products, so we are off to a great start.

Amalgam A is not the most alluring name for a perfume, but I guess it refers somehow to the typical 'golden glow' of amber. Because this is in fact a full-on amber perfume. It starts with a certain cognac-like scent that keeps me in a chokehold for a while, but that gets sorted out along the way. When it all settles down, the amber remains with some faint woody and sugary notes on the side. And lots of smoke, cold smoke.

Apart from the boozy opening the perfume wears light and it is pretty wearable for an indie brand. I guess it shows that she is a product designer and has eye for functionality as well as creativity.
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Kurai 2 months ago 3
7
Sillage
7
Longevity
4
Scent
Not Pierre
His name is Pierre, from Africa. He has quite a reputation. Today I finally met him, after hearing all these legendary stories. For a moment I thought we were going to be buddies. But after a while of close interaction, he got on my nerves. I mean he got all rubbery on me and I hate that. Plus he got saffron, he is full of it. Turns out he is not quite the guy I thought he was. Not my Pierre.
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