MrLawman
Reviews
Filter & sort
MrLawman
Translated
Show original
The warmth of the Moroccan desert
About the sensation
In the world of perfume, a breeze (or wind) is usually associated with a sensation that cools and refreshes. Think: ocean, cloudless sky and beach. So important on summer days. Almost every brand - to name a few: Calvin Klein, Davidoff, Givenchy, Tommy Hilfiger, Jean Paul Gaultier, Issey Miyake - has been launching these summery variants for the past decade or so. And every year they manage to give a slightly different, summer-fresh interpretation to a popular fragrance.
But a breeze that makes the sun feel like a warm and intensely sensual caress on your skin is a rare thing. A scent that warms you and makes you wander through the deserts of Arabia near an oasis. And then came Chergui in 2001.
This fragrance takes the desert heat one step further. Chergui captures you from the start - no cooling oasis nearby. The fragrance is named after the 'famous' wind that blows across the inhospitable Moroccan mountains and deserts.
No fresh pleasure, just warmth: fragrant, hot grains of sand scattered on the skin by the balmy wind.
It's another typical Lutens', that is: lightly candied and with a deep layer of spices and milky resins.
Only, and this is the first time I've said this about a Lutens fragrance: the intensity of Chergui could have been a bit stronger for me, precisely because the scent is so good.
But still: Meanwhile, I'm reminded of the final scene of the movie Morocco (1930), where Marlene Dietrich decides to leave her comfortable life behind and go into the desert to follow her legionnaire lover (Gary Cooper)... that a fragrance can evoke all this.
About the scent
A soft and sultry breeze that actually has all the ingredients caressing the skin at once. But first, a slight frisson of something candied that is sweet, combined with something resembling a hay note (coumarin?) that leads into a black tea-like sensation sweetened by honey. I write 'something' twice because it's all so pleasantly indefinable. Do I smell cinnamon or not, do I smell finely grated sugar or not? Then a whirlwind of rose petals surrounded by powdery iris and milky sandalwood. Beautiful. All of this is made "firmer", more animalic and sensual in the base of Chergui by tobacco, leather and amber, each mixed with musk. Don't think that tobacco and leather make Chergui 'masculine', because the sweet notes make it 'feminine', i.e. androgynous - something typical of all Serge Lutens fragrances.
In the world of perfume, a breeze (or wind) is usually associated with a sensation that cools and refreshes. Think: ocean, cloudless sky and beach. So important on summer days. Almost every brand - to name a few: Calvin Klein, Davidoff, Givenchy, Tommy Hilfiger, Jean Paul Gaultier, Issey Miyake - has been launching these summery variants for the past decade or so. And every year they manage to give a slightly different, summer-fresh interpretation to a popular fragrance.
But a breeze that makes the sun feel like a warm and intensely sensual caress on your skin is a rare thing. A scent that warms you and makes you wander through the deserts of Arabia near an oasis. And then came Chergui in 2001.
This fragrance takes the desert heat one step further. Chergui captures you from the start - no cooling oasis nearby. The fragrance is named after the 'famous' wind that blows across the inhospitable Moroccan mountains and deserts.
No fresh pleasure, just warmth: fragrant, hot grains of sand scattered on the skin by the balmy wind.
It's another typical Lutens', that is: lightly candied and with a deep layer of spices and milky resins.
Only, and this is the first time I've said this about a Lutens fragrance: the intensity of Chergui could have been a bit stronger for me, precisely because the scent is so good.
But still: Meanwhile, I'm reminded of the final scene of the movie Morocco (1930), where Marlene Dietrich decides to leave her comfortable life behind and go into the desert to follow her legionnaire lover (Gary Cooper)... that a fragrance can evoke all this.
About the scent
A soft and sultry breeze that actually has all the ingredients caressing the skin at once. But first, a slight frisson of something candied that is sweet, combined with something resembling a hay note (coumarin?) that leads into a black tea-like sensation sweetened by honey. I write 'something' twice because it's all so pleasantly indefinable. Do I smell cinnamon or not, do I smell finely grated sugar or not? Then a whirlwind of rose petals surrounded by powdery iris and milky sandalwood. Beautiful. All of this is made "firmer", more animalic and sensual in the base of Chergui by tobacco, leather and amber, each mixed with musk. Don't think that tobacco and leather make Chergui 'masculine', because the sweet notes make it 'feminine', i.e. androgynous - something typical of all Serge Lutens fragrances.
7 Comments
Translated
Show original
Does knowledge increase joy?
My peace is gone. And search. And searching. And find it nowhere. Not even, though it seems a logical place to start, on Xerjoff's page: the meaning of Uden.
Which makes me wonder: do you experience a scent differently if you don't know its meaning?And if you don't like it, is it because of your "ignorance"? If the nice "beauty ambassador" then "helps you out" in the store, will you understand it and find it better because of that?And if you don't like it, is that because of your "ignorance"? If the nice "beauty ambassador" then "helps you out" in the store, will you understand her and therefore find her better?
Does knowledge increase happiness? I don't. What do you think?
Uden Oversode is a lot of pleasant and easy to wear perfume from Xerjoff. It feels like a semi-gourmand with a nice shift to a light aquatic note in the dry down. Imagine a lightly caramelized lemon with a tiny pinch of coffee and tobaco in the opening. Once this settles, the musk starts to appear and then a nice aquatic overtone comes through to keep it fresh and slightly generic. The quality of the notes is high and the blend is excellent, this will appeal to someone looking for a safe summer Xerjoff and it will garner compliments.
But still, what about the name? Do names affect the way we experience and judge perfumes?
It's a question we should ask ourselves....
But what is the (correct) answer, if there is one?
Which makes me wonder: do you experience a scent differently if you don't know its meaning?And if you don't like it, is it because of your "ignorance"? If the nice "beauty ambassador" then "helps you out" in the store, will you understand it and find it better because of that?And if you don't like it, is that because of your "ignorance"? If the nice "beauty ambassador" then "helps you out" in the store, will you understand her and therefore find her better?
Does knowledge increase happiness? I don't. What do you think?
Uden Oversode is a lot of pleasant and easy to wear perfume from Xerjoff. It feels like a semi-gourmand with a nice shift to a light aquatic note in the dry down. Imagine a lightly caramelized lemon with a tiny pinch of coffee and tobaco in the opening. Once this settles, the musk starts to appear and then a nice aquatic overtone comes through to keep it fresh and slightly generic. The quality of the notes is high and the blend is excellent, this will appeal to someone looking for a safe summer Xerjoff and it will garner compliments.
But still, what about the name? Do names affect the way we experience and judge perfumes?
It's a question we should ask ourselves....
But what is the (correct) answer, if there is one?
A better first impression than actual character
Xerjoff Decas
Notes
Top notes: Tuberose, Tobacco, Calabrian mandarin orange
Mid notes: Florentine iris, benzoin, opoponax
Base notes: musk, balsam, bourbon vanilla
Background Information
Decas was released in celebration of the 10th anniversary of the 1861 collection (which also includes Naxos, Renaissance and Zefiro). Recurring element in this collection I find the use of citrus (Renaissance) or aromatic notes (Zefiro and Naxos). Seen this way, Decas, amber-vanilla-citrus fragrance, fits perfectly into the 1861 trend.
Fragrance composition
- Opening
Decas opens very warmly with amber and vanilla immediately in the foreground. The amber and vanilla are full and dense in their own right. The benzoin gives it a spicy character. The orris makes the fragrance buttery and creamy.
Underneath the amber and vanilla is the calabrian mandarin. This note makes the fragrance airy and of somewhat lighter weight. Very pleasant and mouthwateringly refreshing.
- Mid
The mid consists of a warm bed of amber and vanille with that mandarine note that lingers around. It reminded me slightly of Hale Bopp by Tiziana Terenzi but that scent leans heavily on lemon. Decas does so on tangerine. Hale Bopp is also heavy on spices (clove and cinnamon) while Decas stays straight forward with amber and vanilla. The only spicy facet associated with it is the benzoin.
- Dry Down
The dry down differs from the opening. Paired with the musk, the orris steps more prominently into the foreground. It makes the fragrance warmer and more sensual. The freshness of the tangerine - which I personally love - fades away, which is quite a shame if you ask me.
The trouble I have with the dry down is that it becomes a buttery, musky amber-vanilla scent. That's already explored territory for many of us. In other words, nothing groundbreaking. You can almost think of it as Ani without that sharp ginger and bergamot, and with an additional note of amber.
Notes I do not detect: tobacco, resins and opoponax.
Conclusion
A very pleasant fragrance that is easily wearable and even hints at a gourmand at times. Had hoped that the opening would linger much longer and the dry down retained the freshness of the tangerine. The tangerine blended perfectly with the vanilla and amber. The dry down is unfortunately nothing unique. A missed opportunity. Or should I say: a great first impression that didn't live up to its self.
Fragrance Profile: 7.5
Projection: 7
Sillage: 7
Longevity: 7
Notes
Top notes: Tuberose, Tobacco, Calabrian mandarin orange
Mid notes: Florentine iris, benzoin, opoponax
Base notes: musk, balsam, bourbon vanilla
Background Information
Decas was released in celebration of the 10th anniversary of the 1861 collection (which also includes Naxos, Renaissance and Zefiro). Recurring element in this collection I find the use of citrus (Renaissance) or aromatic notes (Zefiro and Naxos). Seen this way, Decas, amber-vanilla-citrus fragrance, fits perfectly into the 1861 trend.
Fragrance composition
- Opening
Decas opens very warmly with amber and vanilla immediately in the foreground. The amber and vanilla are full and dense in their own right. The benzoin gives it a spicy character. The orris makes the fragrance buttery and creamy.
Underneath the amber and vanilla is the calabrian mandarin. This note makes the fragrance airy and of somewhat lighter weight. Very pleasant and mouthwateringly refreshing.
- Mid
The mid consists of a warm bed of amber and vanille with that mandarine note that lingers around. It reminded me slightly of Hale Bopp by Tiziana Terenzi but that scent leans heavily on lemon. Decas does so on tangerine. Hale Bopp is also heavy on spices (clove and cinnamon) while Decas stays straight forward with amber and vanilla. The only spicy facet associated with it is the benzoin.
- Dry Down
The dry down differs from the opening. Paired with the musk, the orris steps more prominently into the foreground. It makes the fragrance warmer and more sensual. The freshness of the tangerine - which I personally love - fades away, which is quite a shame if you ask me.
The trouble I have with the dry down is that it becomes a buttery, musky amber-vanilla scent. That's already explored territory for many of us. In other words, nothing groundbreaking. You can almost think of it as Ani without that sharp ginger and bergamot, and with an additional note of amber.
Notes I do not detect: tobacco, resins and opoponax.
Conclusion
A very pleasant fragrance that is easily wearable and even hints at a gourmand at times. Had hoped that the opening would linger much longer and the dry down retained the freshness of the tangerine. The tangerine blended perfectly with the vanilla and amber. The dry down is unfortunately nothing unique. A missed opportunity. Or should I say: a great first impression that didn't live up to its self.
Fragrance Profile: 7.5
Projection: 7
Sillage: 7
Longevity: 7
To put the Tuxedo comparison's to bed
Rochas Moustache EDP vs YSL Tuxedo (or the other way around)
Main similarities
- They share the same vanilla vibe
- Both are orientals at their core
- Both have the same cakey vibe
Main differences
- Tuxedo opens fresh and green (particularly violet and bergamot, the coriander is inserted/playing along with the black pepper).
- Tuxedo's violet note gives off an acidic vibe mainly due the rose I believe (the rose in itself is hard to detect; it fades away rather quickly)
- Tuxedo's dry down is a warm patchouli with vanilla in particular
- Tuxedo has a salty vibe from the ambergris (fades away when the scent settles down)
- Moustache doesn't start off green (doesn't have green top notes either) but it does open fresh (mandarine, no bergamot like Tuxedo)
- Cedar is quite prominent in Moustache; Tuxedo on the other hand has no woody vibe (has no woods listed at all)
- Moustache is warmer than Tuxedo, because Moustache is not patchouli heavy (which can smell green and earthy)
- Moustache is less pungent than Tuxedo (same reason)
- Would classify Moustache as a warm spicy and Tuxedo as fresh spicy
Overall performance
- Tuxedo has a more powerful sillage and projection. Also performs longer and better.
- Moustache is a softer scent that sits closer to the skin fairly quickly
Design
- In this regard I prefer the bottle of Tuxedo. Personally I dont like the design of Moustache. Looks kind off out dated
Price
- Moustache (no further explanation needed)
Which one would I choose?
- Moustache
- I like my patchouli's to be pungent, green and powerfull (Psychedelique style), so personally Tuxedo wouldn't fit in my collection.
- The price difference is also too steep for my liking
Will this be the last time a cheap alternative can/will be able to dethrone the more expensive, luxurious trendsetter? Only time will tell...
Main similarities
- They share the same vanilla vibe
- Both are orientals at their core
- Both have the same cakey vibe
Main differences
- Tuxedo opens fresh and green (particularly violet and bergamot, the coriander is inserted/playing along with the black pepper).
- Tuxedo's violet note gives off an acidic vibe mainly due the rose I believe (the rose in itself is hard to detect; it fades away rather quickly)
- Tuxedo's dry down is a warm patchouli with vanilla in particular
- Tuxedo has a salty vibe from the ambergris (fades away when the scent settles down)
- Moustache doesn't start off green (doesn't have green top notes either) but it does open fresh (mandarine, no bergamot like Tuxedo)
- Cedar is quite prominent in Moustache; Tuxedo on the other hand has no woody vibe (has no woods listed at all)
- Moustache is warmer than Tuxedo, because Moustache is not patchouli heavy (which can smell green and earthy)
- Moustache is less pungent than Tuxedo (same reason)
- Would classify Moustache as a warm spicy and Tuxedo as fresh spicy
Overall performance
- Tuxedo has a more powerful sillage and projection. Also performs longer and better.
- Moustache is a softer scent that sits closer to the skin fairly quickly
Design
- In this regard I prefer the bottle of Tuxedo. Personally I dont like the design of Moustache. Looks kind off out dated
Price
- Moustache (no further explanation needed)
Which one would I choose?
- Moustache
- I like my patchouli's to be pungent, green and powerfull (Psychedelique style), so personally Tuxedo wouldn't fit in my collection.
- The price difference is also too steep for my liking
Will this be the last time a cheap alternative can/will be able to dethrone the more expensive, luxurious trendsetter? Only time will tell...
1 Comment
Unfinished perfume?
I heard bad stories and had red bad reviews about this scent when going into this one. That had already lowered my expectations drastically.
When I tried the fragrance, I immediately understood the reason why this might be one of the worst offerings from Xerjoff.
The fragrance smells unfinished, chaotic and disjointed. The opening gives you an apple blast but not with the right dose. The cardamom, which is in the mid of this fragrance, later on causes a very unpleasant reaction as well. It seemed to be miss-dosed and not cohesive with every other note used within this fragrance.
With 7 Xerjoff bottles, I am a huge fan of this house. Therefore, it pains me to write a bad review for the first time on this amazing Italian niche house. Truth, however, lasts the longest and thats why we must always stay honest in our reviews. A core value within the frag comm which sometimes gets forgotten...
When I tried the fragrance, I immediately understood the reason why this might be one of the worst offerings from Xerjoff.
The fragrance smells unfinished, chaotic and disjointed. The opening gives you an apple blast but not with the right dose. The cardamom, which is in the mid of this fragrance, later on causes a very unpleasant reaction as well. It seemed to be miss-dosed and not cohesive with every other note used within this fragrance.
With 7 Xerjoff bottles, I am a huge fan of this house. Therefore, it pains me to write a bad review for the first time on this amazing Italian niche house. Truth, however, lasts the longest and thats why we must always stay honest in our reviews. A core value within the frag comm which sometimes gets forgotten...
