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A chocolatey oriental
The spicy saffron opening quickly dissipates into a well blended medley of chocolate, oud and rose - in that order to my nose. After a couple of hours the sweetness evolves into a creamier base, pinned by some dirtier aspects from the ambergris, animalic notes and, I imagine, the 'filth' notes.
The mid drydown is where the heart of this fragrance lies, as all the notes play along each other in pleasant harmony, with no accord overtaking the other. The sweetness here does not veer into gourmand territory, but rather complements the floral attributes of the rose and innate woodiness of the oud. This well balanced medley keeps the fragrance interesting for the couple of hours it lasts, until the base takes the stage.
Someone below described VD as 'airy' and I concur. This one is more intimate than other works from ATH that I'm familiar with, and frankly, I think it fits it best. This is best worn when someone is near. This is a night fragrance, through and through - and perfectly unisex.
The mid drydown is where the heart of this fragrance lies, as all the notes play along each other in pleasant harmony, with no accord overtaking the other. The sweetness here does not veer into gourmand territory, but rather complements the floral attributes of the rose and innate woodiness of the oud. This well balanced medley keeps the fragrance interesting for the couple of hours it lasts, until the base takes the stage.
Someone below described VD as 'airy' and I concur. This one is more intimate than other works from ATH that I'm familiar with, and frankly, I think it fits it best. This is best worn when someone is near. This is a night fragrance, through and through - and perfectly unisex.
Maknoon (Hidden) Oud
It took me some time to 'get' this one - based on the name I initially expected an oud heavy middle eastern rose/oud type composition.
Then on the first spray, a blast of lemon as the top note -- I later found out that Maknoon actually means hidden, which bodes well for the name Oud Maknoon.
To me this actually leans more citrus on the opening with the lemon top note flanked by apricot / chamomile. As it settles down, the incense opens up along with some sweeter accords from the amber/vanilla
Towards the drydown you do get some darker notes, although there is an absolute citrus accord throughout the development of the fragrance, which once I accepted is where this really 'clicked'.
It should be clear that the journey from opening to drydown is a very long one - this is ridiculously long lasting with nuclear projection.
I don't normally rate bottles but this one is excellent and quite heavy.
Finishing this up, Oud Maknoon is a rich, thoroughly enjoyable fragrance that brings something different to the table.
Then on the first spray, a blast of lemon as the top note -- I later found out that Maknoon actually means hidden, which bodes well for the name Oud Maknoon.
To me this actually leans more citrus on the opening with the lemon top note flanked by apricot / chamomile. As it settles down, the incense opens up along with some sweeter accords from the amber/vanilla
Towards the drydown you do get some darker notes, although there is an absolute citrus accord throughout the development of the fragrance, which once I accepted is where this really 'clicked'.
It should be clear that the journey from opening to drydown is a very long one - this is ridiculously long lasting with nuclear projection.
I don't normally rate bottles but this one is excellent and quite heavy.
Finishing this up, Oud Maknoon is a rich, thoroughly enjoyable fragrance that brings something different to the table.
Spices and a Rose
This is what I would expect a french house such as Guerlain, to create as their interpretation of the classic Middle Eastern note pairing -
As the name suggests, upon first spray this came off as a dry rose composition. Opens with a strong blast of saffron that settles into a spicy medley of cardamon / saffron and rose / oud. The spiciness is eventually coupled with sweeter undertones as the balsamic notes dawn on the composition.
This desert rose does not have overt animalistic notes - instead it lets the spices and soft oud provide the bite, with the semi sweet balsamic notes and rose rounding it out.
It's difficult to be groundbreaking with this note pairing - but besides smelling great, this is interesting in it's development and absolutely easier to wear than similar compositions.
As the name suggests, upon first spray this came off as a dry rose composition. Opens with a strong blast of saffron that settles into a spicy medley of cardamon / saffron and rose / oud. The spiciness is eventually coupled with sweeter undertones as the balsamic notes dawn on the composition.
This desert rose does not have overt animalistic notes - instead it lets the spices and soft oud provide the bite, with the semi sweet balsamic notes and rose rounding it out.
It's difficult to be groundbreaking with this note pairing - but besides smelling great, this is interesting in it's development and absolutely easier to wear than similar compositions.
From Dusk to Dawn
I haven't smelled the previous formulation so I'm coming in with a fresh nose and no associations to what seems to be a controversial reformulation -
This fragrance goes through a number of stages which I find quite interesting - definitely not a linear scent. A fresh opening that is quickly drowned by the 'dusk' into a dark body led by the woods, the patchouli, and to a lesser extent the dark chocolate notes. As the fragrance develops, the darkness fades and a softer/sweeter, lighter base comes to the front with the vanilla, tonka and rum notes bringing out the 'dawn' part of the composition. Throughout, the dark chocolate and patchouli notes are the anchors, though they do fade further into background in favor of the lighter notes towards the dry down.
Excellent performance and great longevity on this - as it should given the journey it takes one through.
This fragrance goes through a number of stages which I find quite interesting - definitely not a linear scent. A fresh opening that is quickly drowned by the 'dusk' into a dark body led by the woods, the patchouli, and to a lesser extent the dark chocolate notes. As the fragrance develops, the darkness fades and a softer/sweeter, lighter base comes to the front with the vanilla, tonka and rum notes bringing out the 'dawn' part of the composition. Throughout, the dark chocolate and patchouli notes are the anchors, though they do fade further into background in favor of the lighter notes towards the dry down.
Excellent performance and great longevity on this - as it should given the journey it takes one through.
Chocolate Patch Medley
2010 formulation - Not sure what to add the convo that hasn't been said. Sensual cocoa, perfectly flanked by the star anise is rounded out by the patchouli note. A perfect blend that shouts and echoes sensuality -
The chocolate and patch notes take center stage as the fragrance develops, i think providing a nice push / pull between the darkness and sweetness.
I haven't tried the new bottle, but I do have a 2013 and a 2010 version, and despite reformulation talk back then, they smell the same.
The chocolate and patch notes take center stage as the fragrance develops, i think providing a nice push / pull between the darkness and sweetness.
I haven't tried the new bottle, but I do have a 2013 and a 2010 version, and despite reformulation talk back then, they smell the same.
