Pinkdawn

At the beginning of May it is not yet so hot in Egypt. A good time to travel. Jean-Claude Ellena did not choose this month by chance for his visit to Kitchener Island, home to one of the most beautiful botanical gardens in the world. The small islet was given to Lord Kitchener for his services as commander of the Egyptian army - in particular for his victory against the Mahdists in 1899 - and he began cultivating rare exotic plants there.

In his diary "The Dreamed Fragrance," published in 2012, Ellena recalls an avenue of mango trees that were just bearing their green fruit. He picks a mango and smells it. This moment becomes the inspiration for one of his most successful perfumes: Un Jardin sur le Nil - the award-winning and most popular fragrance in the Jardin series by Hermès.
He builds his composition around this scent of green mango. It corresponds exactly to his idea of a garden on the Nile. So far, he knew only what he did not want: to serve an olfactory cliché of the fragrances attributed to Egypt in the European tradition. Meaning: oriental-spicy, with lots of incense, etc., which never really existed.

Fortunately, Ellena has the gift of reinventing the scent of a garden on the Nile according to his imagination. The fact that the green mango that everyone immediately smells out in this perfume is actually not in this fragrance is typical of Ellena. He is not concerned with natural notes, but with that illusion that not only makes a fragrance more vivid, dramatic and expressive than any 100% natural oil of self-collected plants, but also transmits the intended feeling. This is exactly what I like about Ellena and his perfumes. Because for me, too, an artistically heightened, or for that matter synthetic, fragrance is the more interesting and sophisticated option, because it interprets nature, so to speak, rather than just banally depicting it 1:1.

In contrast to the less intellectual 100% organic natural and ethno fragrances, the Ellena creation provides additional layers and stimuli. Director's theatre, so to speak. Nature remains inspiration, which is used (predatorily), but which is presented more clearly, more refined - a process that is well known to creatives of all art fields. Ellena therefore likes to describe himself as a writer among perfumers, who is more concerned with creativity than pure composition. Un Jardin sur le Nil is considered a masterpiece by the head perfumer of Hermès.

Fragrances like vegetables - in this case tomato leaves and carrot seeds - still seem unusual today. They were one of the reasons I bought this fragrance in the summer. I now know or own a few fragrances by Ellena. One of my favorites is Un Jardin sur le Toit, released in 2011. But I have deliberately stopped to compare the two garden scents.

Un Jardin sur le Nil starts off cool and green. The idiosyncratic scent is immediately present - with a quiet sharpness that is probably due to the tomato leaves. I sense water nearby. The mighty river - overgrown with green plants on its muddy banks, their large, dark leaves, grapefruit-speckled by the sunlight, providing coolness in the African heat. You could watch this meditative, changing play of contrasts for hours.

The citrus notes at the start seem unusual due to the contrast of the tomato leaves and carrot seeds that quickly set in. Almost alien, but appealing.

The ponderous waters glide slowly along, putting you in a trance-like, dreamy mood. You feel the strength and serenity of the Nile. Everything is peaceful, calm, relaxed.

The aquatic-tinged loveliness of the lotus may bring in some water flower darkness, but nothing gloomy. Rather, mysteriousness that can't quite be pigeonholed. And an exquisite, grassy-green sweetness.

The river, the banks - a trance to which one gladly surrenders. Grasses and unfamiliar plants give freshness. There is nothing floral about the elegant sweetness. Rather something abstract. This is probably the green mango.

The strength and serenity of the Nile is present in this fragrance. The warmth of summer and a certain leisureliness are also noticeable. At the same time, this fragrance - especially in the beginning - has something fresh, crisp, grassy.

I feel the coolness of large plants with shady, dark green leaves.
In the heart note join other elements that bring something new, but fit harmoniously into the whole: Cob reed, for example, a touch of orange, barely perceptible, hyacinth and peony.

Only in the base, incense, musk, iris and labdanum appear and let the fragrance aromatic powdery finish like a long, long, red-gold sunset in Africa, which just makes wordless.

I don't notice any of the supposed cinnamon. Since the mighty plane tree already shows itself more clearly.

The fragrance is complex and spans its arc from summery smoothie over fruity notes and cool-looking flowers to the gentle, relaxing finish, which still remains spicy.

For me, Un Jardin sur le Nil is like a journey - varied, pleasant at every stage, unique, quiet and precious. An exquisite unisex daytimer for the summer.

Durability and sillage are not too pronounced. But the perfume is an Eau de Toilette, which just works in these delicate tones, otherwise there would certainly be a EdP to it long ago.
I have this fragrance last summer often worn and run it even on bright early autumn days, because its mildness corresponds with their mood.

Sometime last summer, way too short. Finally! The package has arrived. I ordered the EdP Rosa Nobile by Acqua di Parma for my rose scent collection. I don't know it, but if at least two people call it the best rose scent ever, I want it.
That childlike joy when you open the package ... And then? An unordered, unfamiliar box stares back at me from the packaging:
Chance Eau Tendre, an EdT by Chanel.
A misdelivery. I have no idea what this fragrance is. Of course, I am disappointed. The package has come a long way, and I waited a long time for it.
And now I'm supposed to send the whole thing back - possibly at my expense - to Spain or somewhere?
Chanel is, after all, a big brand. And I got a bottle with a whole 100 ml, which normally costs between € 100, - and € 190, - in the trade.
Uncertain I look at the emphatically simple, pale purple box.
Parfumo tells me, it is a floral-fresh, spring-like fragrance, which is produced since 2010 as an offspring of the Chanel Chance EdP from 2002, which already contains similar fragrance notes such as hyacinth, jasmine, citrus and musk.
The fragrance notes listed for Chance Eau Tendre EdT are grapefruit and quince in the top notes, hyacinth and jasmine in the heart notes, and amber, iris, musk and cedar in the base notes.
I'm reading up on the reviews. Since the fragrance is described as fresh, floral, delicate, bright, gentle, light, noble and lovely, but also boring and stale. Supposedly it is a very feminine, unobtrusive "clean scent". Uncomplicated and nice. Hm. These are all not necessarily the criteria that are top of mind for me in a perfume. Secretly, I think: aha, all euphemisms for inconsequential, unobtrusive, sweet, well-behaved and clean. In a word: a fragrance that absolutely does not suit me.
I don't usually keep an eye out for scents of this nature. But since he is now already there ...
Should he not like me so well, I'll wear him just as a summer everyday fragrance, when I go to the post office or shopping, etc., I tell myself. It is after all a not so cheap brand fragrance from a good house.
Quince, after all. That does sound appealing. In the past, women have put ripe quince in the laundry box and everything has then smelled so lovely, sweet and fresh after this wonderful fruit.
The delicate women's fragrance was created by the now 78-year-old Jacques Polge, who was responsible for the Chanel fragrances as Head Perfumer from 1978 to 2015. Since 2015, his son Olivier Polge leads Les Parfums Chanel. Jacques Polge has created many great fragrances for Chanel. Coco for example, as well as Egoiste, Allure and just Chance.
Still I hesitate to tear open the sealed cellophane wrapper. Because then it would be over with a return. Chanel and I have never been compatible. I don't like the much-touted Chanel 5 at all. I've used many fragrances from reputable brands in my life - but never one from Chanel. Chanel - that meant for me always elegant, ladylike, noble, discreet, but not exciting or innovative.
Perhaps for that very reason - or despite it - my curiosity won out.
Of course, I have now torn open the cellophane wrapper, hold the round glass bottle with the pale pink perfume in my hand - and spray on it. Fortunately, I have not applied any other fragrance that day, which could distort the impression of Chance Eau Tendre EdT.
The fragrance initially seems cooling, fresh and green. Surprisingly unsweet and pleasant. Kind of grassy. In the next phase, fruity things make themselves felt: a rather tamed, civilized grapefruit and something that first makes me think of a pear, but then turns out to be - unfortunately for my taste much too little intense - quince. Here would have been Chance's chance to be a bit bolder, trendier and more idiosyncratic than the mainstream. But it is missed. Perhaps senior Jacques Polge no longer mustered the courage for such boldness, or his need for harmony defeated his desire for novelty.
By the time Chance Eau Tendre soon slides more and more into the floral, it has already lost the brief youthful verve of the beginning.
The hyacinth, which I had feared as possibly too beguiling, proves to be quite adapted and demure, without any nocturnal sensual hullabaloo, which I would have disliked anyway.
And the jasmine also has nothing erotic, but is so what of clean, a real fresh laundry scent. Who does not seem groomed with it, which is no longer to help.
Probably this is the fragrance that parents like to perceive on their (of course higher) daughters, I think. Because with Chance Eau Tendre, no one is going to tick anyone off. It's just well-adjusted, friendly, nice, calm, gentle and elegant. But it's an elegance more suited to higher daughters than sophisticated, grown-up women.
The base ebbs away in unspecific perfume - purest harmony.
Towards the end develops Chance Eau Tendre a certain creaminess, which spreads so to speak conciliatory about everything negative in the world. There resonates then also a delicate powderiness. The otherwise distinctive iris with its fascinating dryness appears here like a gentle baby powder.
All in all, the fragrance is round, well balanced and radiates a restrained, almost innocent femininity.
Old-fashioned I feel Chance Eau Tendre not, but conservative. Nothing for rebels or individualists. The fragrance does not provide any excesses or deeper thought or inspiration. It is easy going. Harmless. Not for alpha women, party queens or ladies who want to stand out. A good fragrance for everyday life that is so unobtrusive that even the sweetness of the flowers is not really lived out. Purest restraint and completely unexcessive harmony.
Jaques Polge was about seventy when he created this fragrance. It is possible that you notice that in the perfume - this delicate, conciliatory harmony, the clean, lovely, well-groomed, gentle.
Perhaps one will also appreciate this classically elegant calm only in the serenity of age, when the noisy life withdraws more and more.
In terms of character, however, the fragrance fits - and I stick to it - especially to young girls. From a good house. Understands itself.
The weekend has come. I still have to get one or the other in the supermarket. Cat food and whatever else you need to live. Fortunately, the supermarket is not far away. Another quick re-spray of Chance Eau Tendre EdT. I grab my shopping bag and FFP2 mask. The elevator takes me downstairs.
After the small purchase, it goes back to my apartment. In the elevator, I take off the mask - and suddenly the most lovely, heavenly scent of flowers surrounds me. I recognize it immediately: It's Chance Eau Tendre EdT! It has been waiting for me in the elevator car, to surprise me now with its delicate tenderness, soft and airy. And I'm really surprised at how pleasant it smells here. I enjoy the ride up to the fifth floor. For my sake, it could have lasted longer.
Is Chance Eau Tendre EdT perhaps not quite as banal, sweet, and well-behaved as it seems? Not that I plan a repurchase, but I'll stay tuned.

You enter and feel like you're in another world. Everything is as it was then, at the time of the fin de siècle. Marble, golden brass decor, black bentwood furniture, high columns, plenty of windows, a distinguished clientele sipping coffee cups and - the soul of the café: a sparkling display case full of the most delicious nibbles, tarts, Danish pastries, cakes and petit fours, whose loving production - from our own patisserie, of course - you can already tell how wonderful they will taste.

For me, a stay in one of Vienna's oldest cafés, Café Central in the City, which has been around since 1876, always begins in front of this display case with the careful selection of the sweets you're in the mood for, and which you'd like to enjoy with your French pronounced coffee, with a long E.

There's no pot of coffee here. One keeps faith with the many traditional Viennese coffee specialties. Of course, all served with a glass of fresh Viennese high spring water.

It smells of the finest vanilla, fine chocolate, cocoa and coffee.

Cuir de Nuit immediately reminds me of this old, elegant coffee house in the Palais Ferstel, which was once a luxurious temple of banking.

It's been a very long time since I bought a perfume from Yves Rocher. Normally, I tend to hang around in the niche segment. Why I made an exception here?

The trendy leather fragrances begin to interest me more and more. I mean now not the dignified leather scents of the old men's perfumes and also not the sexy leather scents of the Dominas. I don't feel like sweaty biker jackets either. I mean fine suede, gossamer, light and thin like the fine ladies' gloves that used to make the outfit of the woman of the world perfect.

Then one thing led to another: A 5-euro voucher for Yves Rocher including free shipping fluttered to me. I did not want to let the chance pass me by. Of course, I started looking at the fragrances - and came across La Collection, a series of eau de parfums consisting of Garden Party, a rose-mint fragrance by Marie Salamagne, Matin Blanc, a fresh bergamot-orange blossom fragrance by Fabrice Pellegrin, Autour de Minuit, a sensual fragrance by Amadine Clerc-Marie, Sel d'Azur, a fragrance of citrus notes and cedar by Marie Salamange, Voile d'Ocre, a spicy oriental by Ane Ayo and Fabrice Pellegrin, Plein Soleil, a bewitching tropical scent by Fabrice Pellegrin, Tropical Tentation, also a tropical scent by Amandine Clerc-Marie, Sable Fauve, a warm desert scent by Marie Salamange, Nouveau Genre, a patch by Marie Salamange and Cuir de Nuit by Amandine Clerc-Marie. This well-known perfumer has created fragrances for many important brands, including Kenzo, Chloé, Lalique, Mugler, Marc Jacobs, and Lancome.

I usually stay away from fragrances that have night - in all languages -, mystery, magic, love, seduction, hypnotic, etc. in their names, for good reason.
Here, I was intrigued by the leather. There is no leather note, but there is talk of "dark facets" that are "almost as animalic as leather". Well.

In the short advertising text on the website of Yves Rocher, which is aimed at the mainstream and actually does not do justice to the fragrance, it must be said honestly, target group-appropriate, as it is called in the jargon so beautiful, is mentioned twice that the fragrance is addictive or should make. Cuir de Nuit is also described as the "origin of a longing" - whatever that means. The fragrance character is described as "sensual vanilla". Well.

Cuir de Nuit deserved not only a slightly less populist description, but also a different name. Cuir de Nuit, "night leather," is not a particularly happy choice. The fragrance contains, as I said, no leather notes and very nocturnal - in the sense of erotic or sensual - it does not seem to me either.

Nevertheless, I have chosen him because I suddenly long for vanilla as a result of the days getting cooler, and I am interested in this illusion of leather.

The fragrance surprises at first with a distinct note of pink pepper. I was expecting vanilla and not this almost somewhat pungent pepper. This was new for me in a vanilla fragrance. But this wild phase does not last long. Very soon the scent gives itself as expected: soft and warming.

The vanilla here appears dark, dry and unsweet. I like. There is nothing sticky, pick-sweet, kitschy. It's a modern vanilla. Yet it retains its comforting, warm, soothing attributes. I like that, too.

Gourmandy the scent already seems, but in a new, less sweet way. The cocoa spreads bittersweet, subtly tart charm and pairs perfectly with the vanilla, which gradually enters its powdery, clean phase. Together with the aromatic cocoa or chocolate notes, it spreads a sense of well-being, security and something comfortingly enveloping.

The creamy fragrance has something ingratiating, pleasant, but also mysterious, because the vanilla just very self-confident and "different" than usual occurs. That it is nevertheless so soft and feminine, makes the charm.

Among the secrets of Cuir de Nuit is for me also a strange phenomenon: When I move and a breath of the fragrance touches me, I very often have the feeling to sniff coconut. It's like that. Even if I can not explain it to myself.

The durability is not endless, but acceptable. In its final phase, the fragrance seems a little synthetic sweet. But does not disturb.

The sillage I do not feel as intense. Also does not bother me. Because that makes the fragrance unobtrusive, suitable for everyday use and versatile wearable.

As a discreet autumn and winter fragrance - that's Cuir de Nuit for me - for well-discounted € 25, - for 100 ml this EdP is a welcome addition and variety to my numerous other fragrances for the cool season.

Of course, the perfume in its simple, pleasing flacon can not compete with expensive fragrances like my current favorite Baccarat Rouge by MFK or the ouds of this house.

I also did not expect.

Whether I'm imagining it or actually perceiving it: I really do perceive the suggestion of leather. Admittedly not as "animalistic" as in the questionable description of the manufacturer to read, but restrained, delicate and bright as in summer gloves made of thin goatskin. This has convinced me and at least made curious about other "leather fragrances" of the fine kind.

My next candidate I have already ersoukt - given the price for now as a filling. It is none other than the famous Cuir Beluga by Guerlain, which plays in a completely different category. I look forward to the test.

For my birthday at the beginning of June, I bought myself a perfume this year, too. Last year it was a gift box with five 5 ml samples of Zarkoperfume - a good choice, as it turned out. This time, I opted for Acqua di Parma Rosa Nobile EdP. The EdT already found its way to me some time ago. It is a very pleasant rose scent, but unfortunately with a very limited shelf life. From the EdP I expected more in this regard. Is but an EdP naturally higher dosed than an EdT.

However, this is not the only difference between the two. The EdT has mandarin, bergamot and blackcurrant in the top note, black pepper, cyclamen, centifolia, rose and freesia in the heart note and musk and amber in the base.
The EdP released 1 year earlier (2014) consists of tangerine, bergamot and pepper in the top notes, centifolia absolute, peony, violet and lily of the valley in the heart notes and musk, Virginia cedar and amber in the base.

Why I chose the Edt first is easily explained: I hoped to encounter a "purer" rose scent there. With the EdP I feared that peony, violet and lily of the valley - as much as I like them otherwise - appear too flowery and the rose too much
Competition could make.

Why I have for some time a soft spot for modern, fresh rose fragrances and now already a few selected perfumes of this fragrance direction adorn my collection, I do not know.
I'm actually not so the floral fragrances fan. Also not from the type. I'm more of an urban person who prefers trendy unisex fragrances - dry woods like cedar or something, oud, grasses, green scents, vetiver, iso, molecules ... I'm very innovative and curious about that.

This summer, I like to use Un Jardin sur le Toit, Eau de gentiane blanche and Eau de Lierre.

I like to listen to techno and heavy metal, like industrial equipment - metal, glass, steel - and can even get about the powerful aesthetics of heavy technical machinery to current war equipment.

I'm not too romantic - I'm too impatient for that. I wouldn't describe myself as dreamy either. I keep house with my imagination, so to speak, and try not to waste it aimlessly.

Although I am fond of modern fragrances, I certainly don't follow every trend. But where does the love for rose fragrances come from? Perhaps because I find contradictions, contrasts and opposites interesting, antigonales and a certain decadence. I have never been afraid of eccentricity.

But after this little digression on my love of roses back to the Rosa nobile EdP.
It comes in a sleek bottle with a matte gold cap and beautifully thick-walled glass, which gives the presentation a touch of stability - quite figuratively. Like the EdT, the perfume is pink, but here it's a bit darker, richer. Nevertheless, the elegance and delicacy remains.

I sniff the spray head first. Rose plus, I would say. The rose is thankfully not "watered down" by other scents. I think of a stately, fully bloomed red rose. In the background, however, various interesting nuances, all of which I can't exactly define and don't want to, play with the rose - contrasting like the pepper, accompanying like fruits, flowers, woods, musk and ambergris.

Compared to the EdT - which I sprayed on my other hand for comparison, the scent is more "mature", sweeter, elegant and rich. While the EdT comes across more fruity, tangy and lighter, the EdP seems less refreshing, but calmer and more subtle. The two fragrances are really very different, which I would not have expected to this extent. Therefore, one does not buy them "twice" if one decides for both. Whereas the "set" EdP is rather something for the afternoon and evening, the EdT on the other hand also makes a good figure on the sports field or the swimming pool, because it seems lighter and "more modern".

Still, I wouldn't recommend the EdP for older ladies and the EdT for younger ones. I would wear the two rather depending on the occasion.

All two they are summer fragrances, although the EdT is quite pleasant to wear even in spring, the EdP against it until the autumn smells nice and suitable.

The EdP, which is the subject here, starts green. But you can immediately feel the noble, velvety rose, whose power is maintained throughout the course of the fragrance. This is also good, and I have expected.

In the heart note, the fragrance becomes more floral, but remains gentle, subtle and yet clearly perceptible. Rosa nobile smells noble and fine at every stage, but never detached or exaggerated.

The fragrance has - compared to other rose fragrances I've tested recently - style, noblesse, without shouting that out. Distinguished understatement is the order of the day here, elegance instead of plump obtrusiveness and sweetness.

The delicate sweetness of Rosa Nobile EdP is restrained, precious and natural.

The perfume is wonderfully balanced, with rose, floral and citrusy, peppery notes that don't let you get bored with the harmony.
Rosa nobile EdP is in any case suitable for everyday use. The fragrance is lovely, but never kitschy, but unobtrusive. The rose here is noble, but not proud - rather flattering, gentle and above all very feminine and gracious.

For me, there is something almost soothing, comforting about this quiet yet distinctly appealing scent. Perhaps that may be the reason for my inclination to rose fragrances. Rose oil is nevertheless considered in aromatherapy as a mood-lifting antidepressant, which relaxes, reduces stress, anxiety and sadness and creates a good mood and sense of well-being.

"In addition, it is used on the deathbed to promote a good transition to the Otherworld." (Source: https://www.maitreya-natura.com/de/aetherisches-oel-rose.html)

Well then ... ?

The joy is great. A dear Parfuma has me to the fragrances that I ordered from her, among other things, a sample of Roja Perfums Lily enclosed. It's the first time I've tried a fragrance from Roja. When am I going to get to Harrods? That's where The Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie resides. On the sixth floor, of course. So close to heaven ... British perfumer Roja Dove promises the same for his fragrances. They are supposed to make you feel heaven - to be silk and satin, crystal and black lacquer (?!). And they're supposed to smell like an exotic boudoir. Gulp, I think. I guess they weren't made for me, then.

But I cling to the name: Lily ... My favorite flower. Not only is she beautiful, but she has one of the best scents I know.

So I'm spraying. In a moment, this enchantingly cool lily scent will envelop me. The anticipation is building. But what is it? No lily far and wide. I only sniff something very exotically sweet, which I immediately identify as "beguiling" - and thus a no-go for me. Indeed. It's as if frangipani, ylang-ylang, geranium, tuberose and tiare were all falling over me at once. Not to mention jasmine en masse! Good thing I'm staying home today, I think, in the face of this passionate orgy of tropical blossoms, which is so unlike me.

Funnily enough, such beguiling scents keep crossing my path lately. Started with Mukhallat by Montale, which should actually smell like strawberries. Now this game is repeating itself with the non-existent lily. How can you call a perfume Lily that doesn't smell the least bit like lily - and doesn't have a lily in the fragrance pyramid? But maybe Roja Dove dedicated the scent to a lady of that name and not the sacred flower? In any case, all Lily fans should be warned: This one says Lily on it, but it's not inside.

I'm going to double-check to make sure I really got the "right scent". Yes, I have. Nevertheless, no lily. Too bad!

In addition to the ubiquitous frangipani, there are all sorts of opulent notes like ylang-ylang, clove, musk and vanilla, as well as the spicy notes I generally don't appreciate. In a word, ew. Not for me.

I'm glad I didn't buy this fragrance. Because it is expensive. For 50 ml you already have to € 450, - berappen. Or you can buy 100 ml for € 900, -. Of course, there's no quantity discount with this luxury brand. Noblesse oblige.

But you have to look on the bright side: Here I come fortunately not in the predicament, whether I should afford this fragrance or not.

In the beginning, lemon and bergamot should have made their refreshing appearance. But they also do not appear with me. It goes off from the beginning with sensual, exotic, floral and pick-sweet. Lush hypnotic white flowers, too penetrating and intense for me. I'm trying to find something about this fragrance that justifies its high price. Does it seem particularly elegant, particularly precious, noble, extraordinary, innovative, perfect? Nothing of the sort. It doesn't give me an "aha" moment. I realize: I'm not the right person to judge Lily, because I don't like this superficial exotic overload - not even as a room scent or fabric softener. Shake

I'm sure there are ladies who like Lily. Even without the Lily. Unfortunately, I also do not perceive anything of the lily of the valley, which I love. But they would go down in the tropical rush anyway.

I'm sorry for everyone who likes this fragrance, but for me it has something cheap, as expensive as it is. It's that typical, intrusive, hypnotic, supposed to be sensual tropical floral scent that I can't really imagine on an elegant lady with class. But that is, as so often, a matter of taste. Maybe some ladies feel like queens with it. Who knows? Not me ...

Apart from that, whether you are now raving for beguiling tropical flowers or not - the fragrance has for me something smooth, superficial, little alive and does not change much. Intellectual challenge it is not. Not even a thought-provoking or inspiring.

The shelf life is strong. It takes a long time for the drydown to come within nosing distance. Will Lily develop that sweetness in the fade that I would have liked from the start? Sadly, no. Even in this final phase, Lily remains opulent to a fault. I would say the fragrance is made for women who like to stand out and be the center of attention. It's a diva's evening scent for the grand entrance: Galas, balls, Oscars, festivals, opera... Opera?! Oops! I hope I don't have to spend my next opera visit (I like Wagner ...) next to a lady who's wearing Lily right now.